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  #16  
Old 02-06-2020, 06:56 PM
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I have the Warnes on all my .22s, which isn't saying a lot by some standards. 3 rifles.

There's a neat trick to getting the top halves in place without marring the scope tube.

The top "halves" are slightly more than half, so they snap in place. UNLESS you stick a small Allen wrench through the screw holes on each side of the upper ring half and spring them open slightly, by squeezing the Allen wrenches together like a set of plier handles. The closer the wrench fits the hole, the better.

Once they're opened up a bit, you can easily slip them over the scope tube. When you release the pressure they spring back to their original shape. Just don't overdo it when you spring them open.

This isn't a Chilly807 discovery, I learned it from someone here.
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  #17  
Old 02-07-2020, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilly807 View Post
I have the Warnes on all my .22s, which isn't saying a lot by some standards. 3 rifles.

There's a neat trick to getting the top halves in place without marring the scope tube.

The top "halves" are slightly more than half, so they snap in place. UNLESS you stick a small Allen wrench through the screw holes on each side of the upper ring half and spring them open slightly, by squeezing the Allen wrenches together like a set of plier handles. The closer the wrench fits the hole, the better.

Once they're opened up a bit, you can easily slip them over the scope tube. When you release the pressure they spring back to their original shape. Just don't overdo it when you spring them open.

This isn't a Chilly807 discovery, I learned it from someone here.
It's a good tip worth passing on.
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  #18  
Old 02-07-2020, 01:41 PM
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I didn't really like the Warne rings at first, for that reason. Top quality steel rings with a minor downside, is the way I looked at it.

Even a scope with a tough surface finish (Leupold eg) scuffs slightly when you snap the upper halves in place, but the spring-em-open trick takes care of that issue.
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  #19  
Old 02-07-2020, 03:14 PM
MacR

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Just bought a T1x in .17HMR. Tried 4-5 sets of dovetail rings to mount a Weaver GS 6-20 scope. It has a 40mm objective with AO, wasn’t really happy with any of the dovetail rings. Either too tall or not enough clearance. Not wild about rails, but bought one from DIP. With low Burris zee rings, a perfect fit. Really opens up your options with rings, mounting height and eye relief. Something to consider.
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  #20  
Old 02-08-2020, 11:35 PM
62Ranger13
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In the interest of science, I bought the Sako 11mm, 1-inch Low ring mounts (part no. S1802912). These were advertised as being applicable to both Sako and Tikka 11mm rails. Picture in link below.

https://vitalarms.com/sako-ring-moun...ube-low-black/

You can see in the picture these have the plastic insert ring, which I like. Also, there are two screws on the upper/lower ring halves. In addition, both ring mounts have recoil stop pins. Cool stuff, so far.

If you visit a few different sites, you’ll come across a few different variations of description: gloss blue, steel rings, and conflicting fitment. Even Beretta’s site has incorrect information/description.

What I got in the mail was matte black, aluminum ring mounts without the plastic insert rings. And instead of recoil pins, they have a spacer/recoil stop lug. I should point out that I’m just a layman so I probably got the nomenclature wrong, but I’ll post a picture too. Probably not a big deal for those who don’t read instructions anyway, but the instruction sheet is for the big brother 16.5mm ring mounts. Which incidentally are completely different from these ring mounts (centerfire vs rimfire).

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/S1802912

Here are the Good, the Bad and the Ugly;
The Good
-The ring mounts fit the 11mm Tikka T1X rail just fine.

The Bad
-They don’t work with the included spacer/recoil stop lug. The Tikka rail has no provision or recess to accommodate the approx. 2.5mm recoil lug extension.
-They won’t accept the Optilock plastic insert rings.

The Ugly
-The ring mounts will work without the spacer/recoil stop lug, but I think it’s unsightly as you can see the threads of the mounting screw.
-The recoil stop lug could be cut off flush with the spacer, but that’s an additional cost (labor and treating the exposed aluminum after the cut; depending on your skills and methodology).

EDIT-Bottom line. I DO recommend these for the Tikka T1X.-EDIT Pictures to follow

I’m going to make mine work. For no other reason than I just spent 70 bucks on something that might otherwise end up in the junk drawer. And at least I’ll have a spare set of rings afterwards.

I use the Sako Optilock bases and rings like Noknot. To me, they are a signature Finnish look befitting a Finnish rifle, as well as being rock solid. However, I believe the OP is looking for rings sans bases.

Picture of the spacer/recoil stop lug that needs to be removed for proper fit;

Last edited by 62Ranger13; 02-09-2020 at 03:00 PM. Reason: positive recommendation/ they do work fine
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  #21  
Old 02-09-2020, 01:12 AM
sdavis190

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I’ve got the Warne 314 QD rings on mine. 50mm objective with a couple mm clearance between the objective and barrel
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  #22  
Old 02-09-2020, 03:40 PM
62Ranger13
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Earlier in post #20 I gave a bottom line of not recommended (Sako 1 inch ring mounts for T1X)

I have since edited that post to give a positive recommendation.

After installing a scope with the rings, I find they don't look bad at all. My biggest hangup was potential aesthetics with the missing spacer/recoil stop lug. The rings are classified as low, but there is plenty of room under the objective bell (Weaver 3-15x42).



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  #23  
Old 02-10-2020, 09:55 AM
Sc0

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I had some 11mm Sportsmatch rings on my rifle before upgrading to a 20moa picatinny and 30mm scope.

No problems at all with the Sportsmatch rings unless you want a lightweight setup.
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