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  #16  
Old 03-03-2015, 05:11 PM
MikeMyers
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I pulled the slide back reasonably gently, definitely not hard, and because of prior advice, I didn't release it and let it slam home, I allowed it to pull my hand back. The bullet is now in the gun, not the magazine, so I know it loaded.

I then pulled the trigger - nothing else. The trigger "fired".

The gun seemed spotless, no debris, corrosion, nothing. It had been sitting for quite a long time I think.

Hmm, let me read the other link you posted, before I say more. Oops, I see your text, but not the link??
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  #17  
Old 03-03-2015, 05:25 PM
MikeMyers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
A few things;
First, how hard did you pull back on the slide--these guns can be difficult to rack once the trigger is pulled and the hammer is down. Some can be hard enough that people don't buy the "bridge sight" (106, 107 and SH/108) models as they have trouble racking them without skinning a knucle on the rear sight.......

THANK YOU!!!!!

I guess I just didn't pull hard enough - after what you wrote, I pulled much harder, and all is fine now!

Please do post the link you mentioned - I'd like to read it.
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  #18  
Old 03-03-2015, 05:56 PM
MikeMyers
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The gun seems to be working now, and I know what to do about the magazine - will be ordering a new one before I take this one apart, but will do it as soon as I have "another".

Are there any "how-to" instructions posted somewhere, better yet a video, of how to disassemble this gun for cleaning? I'd like to know how to do that, before I start shooting it. I've downloaded a 'pdf' copy of the user's manual, but because of the poor quality of the file, it's difficult to read.
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  #19  
Old 03-03-2015, 10:46 PM
Richard King
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMyers View Post
The gun seems to be working now, and I know what to do about the magazine - will be ordering a new one before I take this one apart, but will do it as soon as I have "another".

Are there any "how-to" instructions posted somewhere, better yet a video, of how to disassemble this gun for cleaning? I'd like to know how to do that, before I start shooting it. I've downloaded a 'pdf' copy of the user's manual, but because of the poor quality of the file, it's difficult to read.



Try this from U Tube. But as you have a pistol that has been heavily altered/customized, after it left the factory. All bets are off as far as disassembly is concerned? As the barrel is a replacement, It's attachment mechanism might have been altered?

The last one I worked on. The barrel securing latch on the frame, was very tight. I don't believe the barrel had ever been removed. Really a lot of pressure had to be put on the latch, so the barrel could be removed.

Might try some of the liquid wrench type stuff that is sold in auto parts stores. If the latch is very difficult to depress. Take the grips off before though. Some of the solvents, raise heck with plastic and finishes.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WAv6X5B75c
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  #20  
Old 03-04-2015, 04:59 AM
Steve S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMyers View Post
THANK YOU!!!!!

I guess I just didn't pull hard enough - after what you wrote, I pulled much harder, and all is fine now!

Please do post the link you mentioned - I'd like to read it.
Sorry, you are right--I forgot to cut and paste the post before I hit "submit". I inserted it again, and here it is on this post

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...ht=stuck+slide
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  #21  
Old 03-04-2015, 07:28 AM
MikeMyers
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Before I say anything else, THANK YOU again! I have a reasonable understanding of S&W revolvers, and know enough to clean my guns, and to make them work a bit more smoothly. I have a Colt 1911 which I learned how to disassemble for cleaning, and also a S&W Model 41 which I just got back from my brother. I don't have a firm understanding of what all the bits and pieces do, let alone which is which.

As far as I know, my High Standard has no problems, other than my knowing next to nothing about it. The fellow who sold it to me dry-fired it one time, to show me how light the trigger was. I knew enough not to do that any more, and waited until yesterday when I got my package of what was supposed to be "snapcaps". It turns out they're "dummy rounds", but at least they allow me to dry-fire the gun once or twice.

Before yesterday, I had only worked the slide five or six times, total. After I dry-fired on the dummy round, the same amount of pressure didn't move the slide backwards - which is why I asked here as to what was wrong. You suggested pulling the slide a little more forcefully, which worked fine. It didn't take a LOT more force, just a little. When the slide came back, the spent dummy round came out of the gun.


Until fifteen minutes ago, when I read the other thread you linked to, I couldn't have found the "extractor". After a search on the net, I found this simple description:
It's a bit difficult to explain in writing, but here goes nothing. There is a little piece of metal, usually with spring tension that hooks the lip on the casing, this is the extractor. Once the round is fired, the gasses cause the slide to go to the rear and the extractor along with it, and since the extractor has ahold of the lip on the casing, it too comes along for the ride. Now on its journey rearward, the extractor decides he doesn't like hitchhikers and hits the casing onto a little piece of metal called the ejector. This causes the extractor to let go of the lip of the casing and continue its journey rearward, but it also causes the casing to deflect off of the ejector and, well, eject.
After reading that, I moved the slide back, and it's obvious as to what part is the ejector. I should take a photo of it, and post that. I didn't see anything that I could identify as "the ejector", but I didn't see any holes to indicate missing parts either.

I don't know that I have any problems - chances are the gun is fine, and it's just my ignorance that is the problem. I'm quickly learning.

=============================================

Thank you also for the disassembly video. I had no idea of what to do, let alone that it seems to be so "simple". I guess my plan is to take the gun to the range, maybe today, and see how well it works, and how well I can shoot it. The next step after that is to take it apart for cleaning - and the video you posted makes that seem so much easier than on my other guns.

If I can't push the "barrel release" in, to release the barrel, I'll put some penetrating oil around it (after removing the grips, as suggested). I'll post something about how well all this worked.

=============================================


(The other thread you linked to didn't have any "conclusion". Did your suggestions allow the OP to get his gun working properly?)
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  #22  
Old 03-04-2015, 12:26 PM
MikeMyers
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A short update. Went to the range this morning, and the gun worked flawlessly.

I started by pulling back the slide, inserting the magazine, then letting the slide close as I held it in my hand, as I was told to do on another site. Every time the bullet jammed, between the magazine and where it's supposed to end up.

I decided to try it as I do with my S&W Model 41 - just release the slide, and let it close on its own. Worked perfectly from then on.

It's as good as, if not better than, any gun I've ever had the opportunity to shoot. I am Pleased with it with a capital P.

The Tasco ProPoint red dot sight was fascinating. I used my regular shooting glasses, instead of my shooting glasses, and the bullet hole appeared exactly where the red dot had been, every time! If I was steady enough to hold the red dot perfectly still, there would be only one hole in the target.

I still need to see if it comes apart easily for cleaning - maybe tonight, or tomorrow. Assuming I do get it apart, are there any posts on the internet as to where to lube it, and how much? Never mind, I think I will ask that in a separate discussion thread, so others can find it.
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  #23  
Old 03-05-2015, 03:43 PM
mr alexander
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High Design .22 Pistol - Help Needed

MikeMyers,

At the very top of the available postings on RFC's "High Standard" section is a sticky that can be viewed. It is titled, "High Standard Rebuild Videos". Presented

by docv 73, it is broken down into several different categories. Although he uses a Victor model in the presentation, you may still find some info there

that would be beneficial. You certainly do not need to strip the pistol down as far as is shown in order to clean it. However, after watching the sticky, you

will have a better understanding of how the individual parts work together in an assembled firearm.

Last edited by mr alexander; 03-05-2015 at 03:53 PM.
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  #24  
Old 03-11-2015, 11:03 AM
MikeMyers
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Small update to this thread.

I posted a photo of my target from my first experience with the gun. To me, it meant there was lots of potential.

I went to the same range yesterday, firing 15 rounds, 5 at a time, at my own targets, specifically because they DON'T show where the holes are landing. Mr. Borland on thehighroad.org suggested I simply concentrate on the fundamentals, and try to make every shot perfect, and not think about my earlier shots. This is with the Tasco PDP3ST reed dot sight (as shown in my original post).

I did better than I've done with any other gun, at least for the past ten years, and probably when I was young as well. Six years ago, my groups were around 8" diameter. They've been coming down about an inch or so every year. Before yesterday, with few exceptions, they were between 3 and 4 inches.

With the High Standard, shooting at 15 yards, and 15 shots per target, my average group size came down by one inch, and the best of those targets is far better than I've ever done in my life. My goal for years has been 15 shots at 15 yards, in a 2" diameter group. Part of me didn't think I would ever do it.

This gun certainly helped a LOT in making it possible....

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  #25  
Old 03-27-2015, 09:26 PM
MikeMyers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
The magazine on the left looks "normal" to me for a slant grip aka 104 HS pistol. But the green mag follower does look to be riding a little high--check to see if the mag. spring is in correctly or if it's in backwards......

I got two new magazines, one from High Standard several days ago, and an identical looking magazine from Brownells this afternoon. On both of the new ones, the "button" you would pull down to load bullets is slightly higher than on the original. Now that I have the new one, I'm ready to take the old one apart and check the spring - BUT - the same bullets that had been working flawlessly in the old magazine failed to load twice in a row with the new magazine from High Standard. I'll test this out tomorrow with my "test bullets" (plastic) and see if they work in one magazine, and not the other, and also test the other new magazine from Brownells.

It may not matter, but there are what appear to be "pins" that go through the plastic block at the bottom. On the magazine I got from Brownells, they go all the way through the plastic, and you can see the pin from either side. On the magazine I got from High Standard, when you look at the holes on the right side,all you see is red plastic. Is this a defect, and I should return it? It's a separate issue - I don't see how it could effect how well the bullets load into the gun. On the other hand, if one thing is wrong, there might be others which could cause my issue.



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  #26  
Old 03-30-2015, 09:23 AM
MikeMyers
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I had a problem with the new magazines; the first bullet would load into the gun, but none of the next bullets. It turns out that the Magazine Release on my High Standard rests against the rear of the magazine, at the bottom, and holds it in place. With the big thick plastic piece on the magazine, there is nothing for the magazine release to rest against, meaning the magazine is only held in place by friction.

People told me that either magazine would work, but that's impossible. So, the magazines need to be returned. .....which leaves me wondering why the magazines even have that plastic part attached. Was it for a different gun?

.....and more importantly, anyone know of a source for the proper magazines, with a metal bottom?

Last edited by MikeMyers; 03-30-2015 at 08:50 PM.
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  #27  
Old 03-30-2015, 06:55 PM
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Here is the link for Brownell's - currently on backorder of course! http://www.brownells.com/magazines/h...-prod7263.aspx The top one is for 22 Short so don't order that one. They also sell a Triple K version of the magazine. Don't order that one either....
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  #28  
Old 03-30-2015, 07:41 PM
Steve S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMyers View Post
I had a problem with the new magazines; the first bullet would load into the gun, but none of the next bullets. It turns out that the Magazine Release on my High Standard rests against the rear of the magazine, at the bottom, and holds it in place. With the big thick plastic piece on the magazine, there is nothing for the slide release to rest against, meaning the magazine is only held in place by friction.

People told me that either would work, but that's impossible. So, the magazines need to be returned. .....which leaves me wondering why the magazines even have that plastic part attached. Was it for a different gun?

.....and more importantly, anyone know of a source for the proper magazines, with a metal bottom?
The one with the red plastic bottom is for the 106 series military grip guns, but will work in all military grip angle 106 or 107 series guns. The same magazine but with the metal "foot" is correct for the 107 series guns. NORMALLY the vintage OEM magazines with the foot will work just fine in your older slant grip frame--I do it all the time with custom grips on my slant grip frames as they stick out further to be able to grasp them below a custom grip. Yet the newer HS magazines you just bought to not appear to work in your gun. The "foot" is just there on the 106, 107 and SH / 108 series due to the military grip angle necessitating a revised magazine release at the front of the grip.
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  #29  
Old 03-30-2015, 07:56 PM
Alan Aronstein

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Slant Grip Magazine

If you need the proper magazine that is heat treated and will work in your pistol- call me @ 713-476-0888 I will send one to you to try . If you are happy with it you can call with your CC or if you don't like it you can just return it -
Alan Aronstein
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  #30  
Old 03-30-2015, 08:21 PM
MikeMyers
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Alan, thanks! If you send and email to '[email protected]' I will send you a return email with my full address. I tried to call you, but there was no answer, and then a FAX machine seemed to answer.

Steve_S suggested that the spring is incorrectly installed in my original magazine, but I didn't want to take it apart until I had another working magazine. I really do need two of them, as the match that I competed in yesterday assumes that you have two magazines ready, each loaded with five rounds.

If you can tell me when to call, I'll give you the CC information. Thanks!!!
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