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  #16  
Old 02-21-2021, 03:36 PM
Ynoti81

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I bought a brand new 617 6" late fall of 2020. Mine looked just like yours. I thought something wasn't right. I've have a few revolvers and none of them leaded up like that. A call to S&W and a shipping label was sent to me. Six weeks later it was returned stating. The crane was was fixed, the locking lug replaced and forcing cone cut. Haven't had a problem since. With that being said, one would think I would be in proper working order. When it left the factory.
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  #17  
Old 05-06-2021, 09:31 AM
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Sorry all, didn't realize I had so many people interested in my cleaning techniques!!

Well, to bel blunt, I used a razor blade (Like a snap blade cheap box cutter) to scrape the excess lead off the frame and as mush as I could above the forcing cone.

Once I got off as much as I could, I liberally applied Lucas bore cleaner to the whole gun, use a brass or plastic bore brush (usually brass to make sure there's no lead in the barrel), then soak the bore in Lucas bore cleaner. While everything is soaking I used a brass brush to scrub above the forcing cone till I was satisfied, then use an old t-shirt soaked in yet more Lucas bore cleaner to run over the whole gun, cleaning off as much residue as I can, run clean patches through the bore till they are nearly white, then wipe the whole thing down with a clean old t-shirt.

I enjoy cleaning almost as much as shooting, But I have to tell you, this one requires extra attention. I have taken it out twice since I got it, put about 100 rounds through the first time, and about 200 the second time, and have had to scrape lead off after both outings. Even though I was hooting plated ammo...

The inlet of the forcing cone seems a little rough to me, like the machining was poor at the factory (you can see machine marks in some of my pics) not sure if that is causing the leading, or something else... I had a charter arms pathfinder target model before this, and I never had leading issues with it, but it was hard to scrub the powder burns off it. I haven't measured the cylinder gap yet, but it appears normal...

whatever the issue is, is shoots fantastic- accuracy doesn't seem to suffer... Last timeout first shot was a bullseye at 6 yards.
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  #18  
Old 05-06-2021, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Ynoti81 View Post
I bought a brand new 617 6" late fall of 2020. Mine looked just like yours. I thought something wasn't right. I've have a few revolvers and none of them leaded up like that. A call to S&W and a shipping label was sent to me. Six weeks later it was returned stating. The crane was was fixed, the locking lug replaced and forcing cone cut. Haven't had a problem since. With that being said, one would think I would be in proper working order. When it left the factory.
I really didn't want to have to send it back.. I hate dealing with shipping and such
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  #19  
Old 05-07-2021, 04:40 PM
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Purchased a seemingly lightly used 617 6-inch last year. It was fairly clean but showed a similar leading issue. I used almost the same tools and method to clean mine up with similar results. Concluded that this might become a semi-regular part of my cleaning regimen for my revolver. IMO, my more bothersome issue is an ejection issue after 70-100 rounds. Sometimes it takes a strong rap to extract the fired casings. Any one have a good DIY fix for that issue? I do clean after every session at the range (brass brush, Shooters Choice MP7/Kroil mixture, Boretech C4). Shoot CCI SV predominantly.
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  #20  
Old 05-07-2021, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by oldshot50 View Post
Purchased a seemingly lightly used 617 6-inch last year. It was fairly clean but showed a similar leading issue. I used almost the same tools and method to clean mine up with similar results. Concluded that this might become a semi-regular part of my cleaning regimen for my revolver. IMO, my more bothersome issue is an ejection issue after 70-100 rounds. Sometimes it takes a strong rap to extract the fired casings. Any one have a good DIY fix for that issue? I do clean after every session at the range (brass brush, Shooters Choice MP7/Kroil mixture, Boretech C4). Shoot CCI SV predominantly.
I had that same problem and there are a few ways to fix it: my first fix was to get a .22 cylinder reamer from Brownell's. I've found a lot of 617s with this problem and have fixed a few for friends. It doesn't take long to fix it up.

Another is to use plated/jacketed ammo. There will be less carbon fouling and you could be able to eject your cases more freely.

You could also wrap a bore brush with a patch and then use bore paste, spin it in the cylinders for a few minutes and it will polish your chambers. Again. this helps a lot.

I shoot Steel Challenge with my 617. I have to reload 39 times throughout a match and I don't have to clean my cylinders one.


Last edited by AzShooter; 05-29-2021 at 10:10 PM.
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  #21  
Old 05-10-2021, 09:07 AM
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I love my 617. I have had several over the years. I finally kept one and made it into a half lug. Now i really like it. I would get a feeler gauge set. Use the gauges to see where it is tight. Then try the other side of the cylinder with the feeler gauge. See if there is a difference. You may have to go a thickness higher or lower to get the results. That will tell you if your crane is bent and needs to go back to S&W. Otherwise just recut your forcing cone and polish the chambers and you will be good to go. Your forcing cone looks a little undercut from the factory to me. I bet that is your problem.

Last edited by jpickar; 05-10-2021 at 09:15 AM.
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  #22  
Old 05-10-2021, 01:29 PM
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i'd check timing by using a range rod on each chamber first - even a slightly bent crane would show on alignment between closed crane + frame opening -
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  #23  
Old 05-26-2021, 11:40 AM
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I finally emailed S&W and they said I should be cleaning it every 50 rounds and certainly every 100 rounds because 22, especially lead, is very dirty. that's bs... My H&R 930 and Charter arms Pathfinder never had issues like this, even after a few hundred rounds, and those were fraction of the cost of this thing...

I responded that what I see is not normal, and I would like to have their gunsmiths look at it.

Their factory is only 90 minutes from my house, but I don't think they allow general public there... I would love a tour though as crappy as Mass is, I am proud we have a lot of good gunmakers in and nearby our state. Our politicians don't make it easy though...
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  #24  
Old 05-26-2021, 12:01 PM
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It seems like SW never misses an opportunity to disappoint .

Those 617s are really nice pistols . If you have a good local gunsmith, Iíd predict youíd have a higher success rate than with SW. They most likely wonít screw up the finish either .

By the end of the day , youíll have as much tied up in freight as you would in a local repair . Ymmv
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  #25  
Old 05-26-2021, 05:37 PM
Rimfiregal

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All three 617s I've had will get a lead build up around the forcing cone, but it's never been a problem other than something I have to clean, regularly.
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  #26  
Old 05-26-2021, 09:48 PM
jpickar

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Originally Posted by GT_80 View Post
I finally emailed S&W and they said I should be cleaning it every 50 rounds and certainly every 100 rounds because 22, especially lead, is very dirty. that's bs... My H&R 930 and Charter arms Pathfinder never had issues like this, even after a few hundred rounds, and those were fraction of the cost of this thing...

I responded that what I see is not normal, and I would like to have their gunsmiths look at it.

Their factory is only 90 minutes from my house, but I don't think they allow general public there... I would love a tour though as crappy as Mass is, I am proud we have a lot of good gunmakers in and nearby our state. Our politicians don't make it easy though...
YOur forcing cone needs to be recut. There isn't enough forcing cone so it splatters lead.
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  #27  
Old 05-26-2021, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Rimfiregal View Post
All three 617s I've had will get a lead build up around the forcing cone, but it's never been a problem other than something I have to clean, regularly.
You know, thinking back, I had a Colt Diamondback 22 that did the same thing. Except, the lead buildup got so bad the cylinder would bind . I found simply pulling a bore snake once every 50 rounds with the gun still warm made it good for another 50. If itís shooting accurate like you want, that really isnít a big deal . I wasnít nuts about sending it back so I lived with it and just brought the bore snake .

You may find some ammos do better than others .
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  #28  
Old 05-27-2021, 11:25 AM
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well, we were all wrong... I looked at it with my phone camera at high magnification this morning, and my heart sank...

IMG_2115.jpg

IMG_2116.jpg

IMG_2117.jpg

do you see the problem? Frame is cracked... Wonder if the original owner and the shop I bought it from missed that... Or if the original owner saw it and that's why he traded it in. I paid a lot for this thing so I am not very happy. I really hope S&W replaces this thing. It is only like a 2019 year of manufacture.

I asked for a shipping label, will keep you all informed as to what happens.

Really bummed...
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  #29  
Old 05-27-2021, 06:20 PM
jpickar

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Yes your frame is cracked and S&W will replace the frame or the whole gun.
Your forcing cone isn't cut enough so mention that to them in a letter of description too.
The gap between the frame and the b arrel is suppose to be there. That isn't a problem.
John
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  #30  
Old 05-28-2021, 10:54 AM
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They will replace the gun, see it more often than Iíd like on revolvers with crush fitted barrels.
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