Help Needed - Rear Tang Receiver

[Horsefly]

Are there any good instructions or how to's, to modify a stock for the CST rear tang receivers?

I have a pretty good idea what's required, but thought I'd pitch this to the masses and see what comes back.

Of course I want to obtain a clean finish with a near non-noticeable look.

[lbjennings]

I’ll probably get plenty of flack on this statement, but this is what I think. If the stock is inlet correctly, it shouldn’t need a rear tang. A little bedding on the sides and back of the receiver and the back of the barrel , along with a pillar should create a very stable action.
If I was to do anything like that, it would be the cross pin setup.
Anyway, that’s my thoughts on making a stable action.
Larry

[Garugerfan]

Originally Posted by lbjennings

I’ll probably get plenty of flack on this statement, but this is what I think. If the stock is inlet correctly, it shouldn’t need a rear tang. A little bedding on the sides and back of the receiver and the back of the barrel , along with a pillar should create a very stable action.
If I was to do anything like that, it would be the cross pin setup.
Anyway, that’s my thoughts on making a stable action.
Larry

I agree on your thoughts on a stable action. Hipshot’s sticky on the cross pin jig and how that method works looks like a great, relatively simple way to anchor the rear of the receiver.

[GH41]

Originally Posted by lbjennings

I’ll probably get plenty of flack on this statement, but this is what I think. If the stock is inlet correctly, it shouldn’t need a rear tang. A little bedding on the sides and back of the receiver and the back of the barrel , along with a pillar should create a very stable action.
If I was to do anything like that, it would be the cross pin setup.
Anyway, that’s my thoughts on making a stable action.
Larry

You won't get any flack from me Larry. The new way isn't always better!

[azguy]

First off, very seldom is a stock inlet “correctly”. That would be an EXACT fit with the receiver. I recently have done work on several stocks built by both the mass producers and the DIY crowd. One I sent back, declining the work due to a bad inlet. Another that I am presently Duplicating, because the stock profile is unique and desirable, so that I can inlet the stock correctly. My opinion differs from Larry’s. However, that doesn’t mean Larry is wrong. Nor does that mean the rear tang method is not correct. All are a means to an end. Done correctly, both methods are usable. The simple bedding of the receiver, in conjunction with a front pillar and a bedded barrel, works. However, I prefer the rear tang as it is simple, looks good, and allows flexibility when it comes to changing barrels. There is a reason Benchrest rifles generally use TWO takedowns, pillars and bedding. REPEATABILITY.

Even though I would stack my inlets up against anyone else’s, I STILL recommend the rear tang, front pillar and bedding the rear of the receiver. Doing so takes out the variables introduced by the stock wood, be it laminate or solid wood. The cross pinning method is a viable solution. However, versus a rear tang action, I would argued that the clearances required to allow for the cross pin installation are a variable in and of themselves. The horizontal takedown shelf’s do not vary. Flat surface resting on a flat surface, that doesn’t change due to tolerance stack up or necessary clearances. Thus the entire shooting platform, as relates to receiver position and stiffness, stays the same and cannot change. Allowing for repeatable action harmonics. Ensuring that the action is free if induced, unnatural stress. Each shot should have repeatable conditions.

Just IMHO anyway.

[Horsefly]

Originally Posted by lbjennings

I’ll probably get plenty of flack on this statement, but this is what I think. If the stock is inlet correctly, it shouldn’t need a rear tang. A little bedding on the sides and back of the receiver and the back of the barrel , along with a pillar should create a very stable action.
If I was to do anything like that, it would be the cross pin setup.
Anyway, that’s my thoughts on making a stable action.
Larry

Re-read my original post, Larry. I wasn't asking for opinions. I was seeking information.

Opinions from you & others who have not anchored a receiver per the method that I'm seeking advice/instruction for doesn't help much, does it?

[lbjennings]

Originally Posted by Horsefly

Re-read my original post, Larry. I wasn't asking for opinions. I was seeking information.

Opinions from you & others who have not anchored a receiver per the method that I'm seeking advice/instruction for doesn't help much, does it?

Sorry, sometimes I have a one track mind. I guess that’s what happens when you’re old and set in your ways.
If I was gonna install a rear tang, azguy is where I would seek information from.
Larry

[Hacker]

I did it. Measure the length of the tang attachment, then measure the same on the bottom of the stock where the back of the trigger sets, mark the spot, we'll call that measure A. Then with the receiver in the stock measure the distance from the bottom of the stock to the bottom of the rear of the receiver. We'll call that measure B.

I used a drill press but I guess you could use a hand drill if you're steady enough. If using a drill press secure the stock good and level then drill the hole for measure B just a little longer, 1/4 to start.

Then you need to hollow out a cavity in the back of the stock inlet where the rear of the receiver sets.

With the rear tang attached to the receiver keep testing for fit as you work and you'll eventually get an opening that allows the receiver with tang attached to be inserted and removed easily from the stock.

I hope that makes sense to you.

If you have a mill drilling the hole becomes real simple, CST told me this.

Secure the receiver upside down in your mill vise with the tang attached. Use the probing neeble (whatever it's called) to touch the screw hole in the tang attachment. When that's set remove the tang (leave the receiver) and put you stock on the receiver. You can then drill because the bit will be perfectly lined up. Then you have to hollow out the cavity.

I did my own on a Harbor Freight drill press on my kitchen table. Didn't have a proper workbench at the time. I hollowed put the cavity to big but it worked for a few months. I guess I didn't have enough Devcon on the rear pillar and it broke loose. Haven't fixed it yet though.

I'd post pics of the job I did on my stock but I don't want the whole site laughing at my crappy job.

[crackedcornish]

http://cstmtech.com/rimfire-receiver...on-of-rear-tab

[Hacker]

Originally Posted by crackedcornish

http://cstmtech.com/rimfire-receiver...on-of-rear-tab

Nice. They didn't have that up when I did mine.

[gcrank1]

Doesnt a bedded 'button' at the rear of the receiver accomplish the same thing with a lot less work?

[Horsefly]

Hacker & Cracked. I appreciate the help. Last time I looked at the CST web site, I didn't see the instructions. Got something that I can work with now. Much appreciated gentlemen.

[crackedcornish]

Originally Posted by Horsefly

Hacker & Cracked. I appreciate the help. Last time I looked at the CST web site, I didn't see the instructions. Got something that I can work with now. Much appreciated gentlemen.

glad to be able to help


so, what stock are you trying to modify for the rear hold down?