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  #16  
Old 02-25-2020, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcrank1 View Post
Imo a fancy dandy expensive bolt may be nice but it isnt going to make much, if any, diff on the target. Id think about spending the money on better ammo and more shooting.
The bolt is to see if it helps stop the stove piping I am having. The gun is very capable of producing quarter inch groups at 50 yards with Tenex, it just does not eject them all, I tried some Lapua Midas plus, Lapua Center X and Lapua Biathlon yesterday and it all shot very small groups at 50 yards but still had ejecting problems with all three, CCI SV seems to have the least problems but I do still get sp issues, my next step in trying to fix problem is the bolt.

Carl
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  #17  
Old 02-25-2020, 01:22 PM
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May I be so bold to suggest- using High velocity ammo may help your reliability. SV may be just a little weak to reliably cycle your rifle. ( Depending on the lot, maybe a slightly weaker load than usual? just thinking out loud here.)
HV should be more than accurate enough for the Appleseed targets ( Note :I do not speak from experience on this - still have yet to shoot an Appleseed event. ) but from what I read, target ammo is not required.

Unless you have tested the SV ammo extensively and it was ok at the range......usually what can go wrong, will, and usually in a match, not practice.
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2020, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dash4cash View Post
The bolt is to see if it helps stop the stove piping I am having. The gun is very capable of producing quarter inch groups at 50 yards with Tenex, it just does not eject them all, I tried some Lapua Midas plus, Lapua Center X and Lapua Biathlon yesterday and it all shot very small groups at 50 yards but still had ejecting problems with all three, CCI SV seems to have the least problems but I do still get sp issues, my next step in trying to fix problem is the bolt.

Carl
If you are using the KID charging handle, do you have the spring kit? And if so, have you tried the three different springs?

Have you tried changing the extractor on the stock Ruger bolt?
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  #19  
Old 02-25-2020, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pblanc View Post
If you are using the KID charging handle, do you have the spring kit? And if so, have you tried the three different springs?

Have you tried changing the extractor on the stock Ruger bolt?
I have tried the light and med spring, I have yet to try the heavier but figured that would make things worse, I thought about the extractor but figured I would upgrade the bolt instead of one thing at a time. I know I will get it figured out sooner or later it just gets frustrating when you think you got it figured out and then you don't. I have sent about 12 different types through it so far with some much better than others, but I want this gun to be able to shoot Eley Tenex or Lapua Midas plus if thats what I pick, after all I want to be able to shoot BR, AS, or NRL22 with accurate ammo and so far the 2 mentioned are much better than CCI SV.
I will try the heavy and see what that does, Kidd bolt is ordered, I was thinking their might be a problem with the face of the Ruger bolt.

Carl
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  #20  
Old 02-25-2020, 06:36 PM
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I submit that extraction problems are not caused by the face of the bolt, but the extractor. Tuning the oem ext. would be my first step, they are just simple stamped parts. Replacing it would be east too but why not give a go at fixing what you have?
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  #21  
Old 02-25-2020, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by gcrank1 View Post
I submit that extraction problems are not caused by the face of the bolt, but the extractor. Tuning the oem ext. would be my first step, they are just simple stamped parts. Replacing it would be east too but why not give a go at fixing what you have?
There is nothing left on this 10/22 that's Ruger besides the receiver and bolt so it was just a matter of time before they both went lol, I am hoping that the new bolt and machined extractor will be my fix.

Carl
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  #22  
Old 02-25-2020, 07:35 PM
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I sure hope it does, more shooting and fewer issues are More Fun!
This is why Ive taken to calling mine the 'money eating hole'. lol, but I still like it
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  #23  
Old 02-25-2020, 07:46 PM
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I sure hope it does, more shooting and fewer issues are More Fun!
This is why Ive taken to calling mine the 'money eating hole'. lol, but I still like it
Lol I couldn't agree more, as much as this frustrates me is as much as I enjoy trying to find out why.

Carl
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  #24  
Old 02-26-2020, 11:17 AM
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Those who have measured have found that the head spacing on Ruger 10/22 production bolts is quite variable and often excessive. Head space is determined by the depth of the recessed pocket on the bolt face. Excessive head spacing is more commonly implicated in causing dispersion (poor grouping) but if the head space is really excessive it might not afford the extractor claw a good grasp on the rim of the fired case.

The back end of the Ruger 10/22 bolt is also not radiused to any functional extent. When the bolt cycles the relatively squared-off bolt strikes the hammer and cocks it against the force of the mainspring. A radiused bolt allows the bolt to contact the hammer face higher up where it can apply more leverage on the hammer to defeat the mainspring. A radiused edge also slides over the hammer more smoothly as it cocks it. So radiusing the bolt can improve cycling and sometimes the difference is enough to eliminate stove pipes due to the bolt slightly hanging up on the hammer.
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  #25  
Old 02-26-2020, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by pblanc View Post
Those who have measured have found that the head spacing on Ruger 10/22 production bolts is quite variable and often excessive. Head space is determined by the depth of the recessed pocket on the bolt face. Excessive head spacing is more commonly implicated in causing dispersion (poor grouping) but if the head space is really excessive it might not afford the extractor claw a good grasp on the rim of the fired case.

The back end of the Ruger 10/22 bolt is also not radiused to any functional extent. When the bolt cycles the relatively squared-off bolt strikes the hammer and cocks it against the force of the mainspring. A radiused bolt allows the bolt to contact the hammer face higher up where it can apply more leverage on the hammer to defeat the mainspring. A radiused edge also slides over the hammer more smoothly as it cocks it. So radiusing the bolt can improve cycling and sometimes the difference is enough to eliminate stove pipes due to the bolt slightly hanging up on the hammer.
I did pull the bolt and did radius the back of the bolt per instructions found here, was rather easy and hoped this would help but to no avail.

Carl
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  #26  
Old 02-28-2020, 08:34 AM
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If you've bought that bolt already disregard.

If not, consider replacing the extractor with a Kidd. That may help, it did for me.

Also, make sure your chamber is clean.

I assume your using a match grade barrel, those typically have very tight chambers.

The only extractor I've found to work well is the Kidd. I've tried Volquartsens with VQ barrels, and they didn't work as well as the Kidd extractor.

You can also ship your bolt to a smith to have them correct the headspace, lots cheaper than a new bolt.

Andy Trivette has done all my bolts:
http://www.trivettesgunsmithing.com/10.html

R/
Chris

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Last edited by navybowhunter; 02-28-2020 at 08:38 AM.
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  #27  
Old 02-28-2020, 09:20 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys, I am hoping the new Kidd bolt takes care of the issues, but if for some reason it does not then I plan on sending it to someone to help cure the problem.

Carl
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