How I adjusted the trigger on my Marlin 60 (Drawing)
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There is no right way to adjust the Marlin 60 trigger or to remove trigger creep but after reading many posts on this forum about what others here have done I tried my hand at it. I also came up with some on my own. When I was done my trigger pull had gone from being able to pick the rifle up in cocked position with the safety off by the trigger without the rifle firing to about 3#'s. I hope this helps someone.
Last edited by LDThornton; 06-08-2009 at 11:45 PM.
The JB Weld trick doesn't need much JB Weld at all. Just a little bit on the nose then let it dry and then sand a nose shape back on. Repeat until most of the creep is gone. If too much JB Weld is applied you can sand off the excess. My rifle has just a little bit of creep now but much less than when I started.
I hope everybody that does these tricks replies so we can know if it works for them or if they have trouble. If a spring gets totally screwed up you can get a new one from Brownells reasonably.
Last edited by LDThornton; 07-12-2006 at 11:00 PM.
I don't have a 60, but that is very cool. Thanks for posting it, it definitely adds to the pool of knowledge here.
Paul
Just trying to take some of the mystery out of the Model 60. While I don't really care for the design of the action I do like the design of the rest of the rifle except the plastic trigger guard and feel that we (and the rifle) deserve the best trigger pull that we can give it. Marlin give us an aluminum trigger guard........
Could someone elaborate on the gap which is filled by the JB weld please?
I have a model 60 and also a new model 717 M 2 which someone said has a very similar trigger. TIA
LD, when you say 'weaken spring', how are you doing this?
Thanks, Robie.
By forcing it by hand in the opposite direction so that it exerts less pressure than it did. I didn't have to remove the springs to weaken them. Just sort of tweaked them with a small screw-driver or what-ever.
Could someone elaborate on the gap which is filled by the JB weld please?
I have a model 60 and also a new model 717 M 2 which someone said has a very similar trigger. TIA
The JB Weld is to remove the trigger creep. If you can build up the little nose so that it is closer to the part of the action that it pushes against you can remove the trigger creep. Be sure that there is still a nose when you are done or the rifle will not fire.
Looking at the illustrations, I am thinking that the "nose" is the slightly rounded part on the vertical piece that looks like it bears on the horizontal piece just in front of it. Reduce that gap with properly finished JB?
This helps too.
I have the triggers in my model 60 rifles set at about 2# to 2 1/2#. I made one lighter but found it to be too sensitive for field plinking and silhouete match use. I was doubling with the one I set at 1 1/2#. To get that pull weight I rebent the trigger return spring in the guard so it just barely returned the trigger to it's forward position, cut two coils off the hammer spring, smoothed the sear and hammer notch and put moly grease on everything that moves in the lower action. I've had no misfires with the shortened hammer spring. To raise the trigger's pull back to a little over 2# I bent the trigger return spring back toward it's original configuration for more initial pull weight.
While I don't really care for the design of the action I do like the design of the rest of the rifle except the plastic trigger guard and feel that we (and the rifle) deserve the best trigger pull that we can give it. Marlin give us an aluminum trigger guard........
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