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November Fun Shoots

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#1 · (Edited)
It's November already??
Father Time doesn't fool around!

It's Thanksgiving season. Plenty of things here to be thankful for! :)

Thankful for RWS ammo. Any kind of RWS ammo or derivatives scores an extra 10 bonus points!!

*Until we return to normalcy and the shooting ranges are open for business, it's okay to shoot a pellet gun at 10 yards at the target of your choice (trigger time is trigger time). If you can shoot rimfire, please do. Some of us can't. I'm sure we'll do the best we can under the circumstances.* Coming into the rainy season here - I'll shoot what I got be they pellet or rifle.

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Make a note of these, they will be the guide for all future Fun Shoots'
SmallCal.

RFC Fun Shoot; Classes and Rules
This Fun Shoot is for any RF cartridge rifle, to include the following, .22 RF, .22 Mag. , .17 RF.

All targets in each class are shot at 25 yards.

The (old) rules for Class 1 expired 4-30-09 and have been deleted. (This update to C-1 made 7-16 09)

Note that we will use three different classes of rifles for this shoot and from now on and these class rules will apply for all future Fun Shoots. Make a note of them.

(NEW Rules for Class 1 Fun Shoot as of 7-16-`09 SPECIAL ADDENDUM to C1 irons and scoped shoot. PLEASE NOTE, that from this date (2-4-2019) on forward the ammo used in this class is limited in price to $4.00 per box for 50 rounds.

This Class 1 Fun Shoot is reserved for beginners and novice of any age.

Targets will be generous and fairly easy to learn on.

Class 1. Box Stock HUNTING/PLINKING rifles only, NO target rifles allowed. Allowed modifications will be limited to the addition of a scope with variable power settings and shortening of the butt stock for fit to smaller shooters. Scope power will be assigned at the time of the shoot. Usually not more than 9X. Iron sighted rifles will use original sights or replacements like the original. Any rest is allowed except Machine Rest.
These modifications to this Class 1 shoot are implemented to allow older beginners and novice shooters to join in the Fun Shoot without the heavy competition of shooting against target type rifles and highly skilled shooters. Those rifles and shooters will go to Class 2 from now on. If you have questions, PM me direct. SmallCal

PLEASE NOTE, that from this date (2-4-2019) on forward the ammo used in this class (CL-1 only) is limited in price to $4.00 per box for 50 rounds.

SmallCal

(Unchanged)
Class 2; Modified Hunting/Sporting Rifles. Allowed modifications will be limited to the addition of adjustable scopes with the power setting assigned at each shoot, adjustable receiver sights, globe front sights, trigger modifications/replacement to lighten weight of pull but NO low end limit but must be safe. Barrel replacement of any design that doesn`t make your rifle exceed the weight limit of 10.5 lb. total weight. Stock modifications or replacement stocks that resemble thumbhole or sporting stocks which have a convex forend profile and horizontal width no greater than 2 inches wide are allowed.
If your Modified Sporting Rifle exceeds any one or more of the above limits, it will be in the higher Class 3 group.

(Unchanged)
Class 3; All of those rifles that were/are designed for the strict purpose of Bench Rest Shooting with unlimited modifications and all of those rifles that exceed any limits in the Modified Hunting/Sporting Rifle class.
This class can be divided into two sub classes of those bench rifles with scopes (unlimited power) and those with iron sights (unlimited type). This sight division will allow all of the super race guns to be included here.

If you are unsure of the class you should be in, go to the next higher class and state that on your score/target postings.
I do know that there will be some rifles that are so close to fitting into more than one category that its hard to tell where they should go. If in question, go up a class.

Post score as shown here.

RFC Alias,__________, First name__________
Score w/ bonus________,Class________,
Scope______________, Iron sights,________
Rifle make,________, Ammo,_________
Weather conditions____________
Excuses__

We shoot these Fun Shoots WITHOUT a time limit and NO restrictions on ammo except in C 1 which is limited to ammo costing $4.00 or less per box of fifty rounds. Take your time and have fun.

Thanks, Stan...

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Class I Scoped Target here:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/rfcftp/targets/IPSCTR/ipsctr_007.pdf

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Class I Scoped

Shoot 2 shots at the each bull (All 5 of them.)
Use the whole bull, score 10 each
Shots touching a line score 5 points
Shots outside score 0

Give yourself 5 bonus points for each 2 shots in the smaller bull

Max. Score 100

Shoot @ 8x

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Class II Scoped Target here

https://www.keepandshare.com/doc/2942330/happy-rats-2-zone-pdf-july-5-2011-12-38-am-54k?da=y

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Class II Scoped

Shoot 1 shot at each bull and little bull (all 12 of them)

Shots completely within the outer perimeter lines score 10 Points

Touching the edge counts 5 points

All other score 0

Bragging rights for a clean skull shot...

Max score 120

Shoot @ 12X

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Class III Scoped Target here

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/rfcftp/targets/IPSCTR/ipsctr_089.pdf

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Class III Scoped

Shoot 1 shot at the bulls (All 15 of them).

Hits within the bull score 10 Points

Shots touching a line score 5 points

Shots outside score 0

Max score 150

Unlimited Scope setting

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Class I Irons
Target here

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/rfcftp/targets/IPSCTR/ipsctr_041.pdf

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Class I Irons

Shoot 10 shots at the bull. (All 1 of them.) Keep 'em in the black.

Shots completely within the outer perimeter lines score 10 Points

Shots touching the line score 5 points

Shots outside score 0. The 4,5 and 6 line don't count, they will be counted as zero

Max. Score 100

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Class II Irons
Target here:

https://www.keepandshare.com/doc/2914274/25yard6duck-pdf-june-27-2011-12-34-am-129k?da=y

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Class II Irons

Shoot 2 shots at each duck. (all 6 of them) Use the whole duck

Nicks count 5, shots outside score 0 points

Give yourself 5 bonus points for each 2 shots hitting the 1" bull cleanly

Max score 120 points.

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Class III Irons
Target here:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/targets/match/m7.pdf

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Class III Irons

Shoot 3 shot at each animal. (all 4 of them)

Nicks count 5, shots outside score 0 points

Max score 120 points

************************************************** ********

I'll see you on the shootin' range...

Stay healthy! Stay safe!
__________________

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#131 ·
Well done Bob... :bthumb: :bthumb:

I'm glad those peeps are workin' out for ya! :cool:


:F
 
#134 · (Edited)
The general rule of thumb is
2" @ 25
4" @ 50
8 " @ 100
for the bull size. We never know what Stan is going to throw at us and that keeps it interesting.

Another good starting point is to have half the bull size in the white. Another words if a 4 inch bull, have 2 inches of white showing completely around the bull in your front sight aperture. You can work up or down from this to your liking and comfortable sight picture. If using a post this would not apply.

The way you are improving, you are going to have to join us in the 50 yard Iron Shoot matches Bob.:bthumb:

When I shot the ducks, I eliminated it [the duck] from the equation and just concentrated on the little black bull using a smaller front insert.

I never cared for the Lee Shaver's. I have a couple sets around here somewhere. Just not enough mass to focus on. BUT, you can find the one you want to use and then stack 2 larger ones in front or back to greatly improve your focus on the front sight. Adds more mass to the circle to see better.
 
#136 · (Edited)
I was just thinking of posting re standard bull sizes when I saw Stan's post. He's absolutely right, 4" at 50 and 8" at 100 is the general rule of thumb worldwide.

I can share what size front aperture works for me. It gets tricky because the barrel on my Tikka is somewhat shorter than most target rifles, so a smaller aperture looks bigger. A longer sight radius would be nice, but it is what it is.

I use the same 3.6 mm front aperture for 50 yds and 100 yds under most light conditions. That'll also work for a 2" bull at 25 yds. For a larger or smaller bull, you should change apertures.

Generally, if you use aperture "X" for prone shooting, you'll go up a couple sizes for kneeling and standing. The reason for that is the sight picture is more "fluid", which is a nice way of saying it moves around a lot. Your eye will automatically center the bull in the aperture, so the larger aperture makes that seem less difficult when it's moving around.

Rear aperture size is a personal thing. I prefer to have a thin halo of light around the front globe when I look through the rear sight. It tells me everything is centered. Too small an opening reduces the amount of light getting to your eye, too large and you'll wander.
How close your eye is to the rear sight defines what size rear aperture you use.
Mine is a Gehmann adjustable aperture that screws into a Euro standard rear sight, in my case the rear sight was made by Unique.

With the eye relief on the Tikka, between 2.0 and 2.5 mm seems to work the best.
You guys are like an online shooting clinic..... if Saturdays weren't such a crap show at the range I'd probably be there by now.

I still have more testing to do, but so far it seems I have a reasonably variable range of how much white surround on the bull I can shoot well with. I'm leaning towards more, almost as much white as black.

As it stands now with the Redfield 75 and 68, rear sight on the forward mounting point for more eye relief, .047 rear app in, and 513T sight radius.... every MM on the front is almost the full field of view on a target through the front app. I took some larger targets and could just barely see a 3.25" target with the 3mm front. Comfort level seems to increase as I grow to approach 3-4 MOA total white halo up to maybe 6 MOA.... I haven't tested beyond that yet. So I shot the smallest 1" targets best with the 2.5mm insert.

I must be learning because the first attempt at the ducks was with a larger front. The second time I went to the smallest 2mm and almost picked up all my bonus points. That outer distraction is tough on the eyes, but way better than allowing more distraction. I had seen but forgot about the ability to double or triple up the Lee Shaver inserts, so might give that a try as well. They do have a thin ring, I just wish there was a card of all round inserts for this front, but there isn't much selection.

And as I've said, I think I need to go smaller on the rear still. With the current setup I can almost see the top of the barrel, so I still have at least 6-8 MOA of ring outside of the front globe. With a long sight radius and small front globe it adds up quick.

It might take some more trips and testing but I'm figuring them out. I hope to find a place to shoot longer distances at some point. I'm working on getting some larger fronts laser cut so I can shoot some of the larger targets and the A23 for offhand with round inserts. I'm going to end up needing inserts up to 5-6 mm I think, maybe more.

I'm glad there are so many good peeps shooters in this section, and on the forum in general It's really helped me sort out the things that are vague at times and start getting these things sorted out. All the input is appreciated. :bthumb:
 
#135 ·
I was just thinking of posting re standard bull sizes when I saw Stan's post. He's absolutely right, 4" at 50 and 8" at 100 is the general rule of thumb worldwide.

I can share what size front aperture works for me. It gets tricky because the barrel on my Tikka is somewhat shorter than most target rifles, so a smaller aperture looks bigger. A longer sight radius would be nice, but it is what it is.

I use the same 3.6 mm front aperture for 50 yds and 100 yds under most light conditions. That'll also work for a 2" bull at 25 yds. For a larger or smaller bull, you should change apertures.

Generally, if you use aperture "X" for prone shooting, you'll go up a couple sizes for kneeling and standing. The reason for that is the sight picture is more "fluid", which is a nice way of saying it moves around a lot. Your eye will automatically center the bull in the aperture, so the larger aperture makes that seem less difficult when it's moving around.

Rear aperture size is a personal thing. I prefer to have a thin halo of light around the front globe when I look through the rear sight. It tells me everything is centered. Too small an opening reduces the amount of light getting to your eye, too large and you'll wander.
How close your eye is to the rear sight defines what size rear aperture you use.
Mine is a Gehmann adjustable aperture that screws into a Euro standard rear sight, in my case the rear sight was made by Unique.

With the eye relief on the Tikka, between 2.0 and 2.5 mm seems to work the best.
 
#138 ·
I have one that came with the rifle. It is the 2 mm with the larger black surround. I tried to drill it larger, to approximately 3 mm. It's a little off center and I bent the post slightly, but it could still be used.

I'm not sure if they go any larger than what I have now. But I do like the acrylic and would be interested to see how they transmit light.
 
#140 · (Edited)
RFC name: Tomcat21 name: Ted
Score: 30/100; Class: C-1 Irons
Rifle:Savage NRA Match Rifle, Ammo: CCI. Std Vel.
Sights: Savage Rear Aperture, Lyman globe Front
Weather:70 Deg. Mostly Sunny, light wind
Excuses: I should never have brought this gun to the range.

Put this target on the stand in the horizontal position. First time I ever shot this rifle at a range, rear aperture sight is not a thing of beauty, but it should work okay (after I finally located the sights very faint increment or hash marks at home). Also, I put a Lyman Globe front .494 high because it's very hard for me to see a blade sight, but .494 was not high enough. The rifle had minor surgery at home as the globe front was removed and the "shark fin" style front sight was reinstalled and blackened as much as I could. I tried to sight in and shoot for score at the same time, didn't work out to good. With the globe front, the first shot was wide right outside the four ring (-10), shots two through five are outside the black (-40), six and seven touch outer line of seven ring (-10), remaining shots inside the black, rings 7,8 and 9. Windage adjustment is made by a worm gear which is very loose, wobbles and goes out of adjustment at the slightest touch. This Model 1919 was produced from 1919 to 1932 and was superceded by the Model 19 N.R.A. (which had much better aperture and globe sights by Lyman) in 1933.







 
#141 ·
Good shooting Ted... :bthumb:

With another classic rifle!

Hay, I count 5 in the black and two nicks, should be scored as 60 - not 30...


:F
 
#143 ·
Interesting rifle, Ted. It looks like the barrel and receiver are made from a single piece of steel? I can't say I've ever seen one like it.
Classic guns like this make these matches more interesting.
I've been looking for a Stevens Favourite in .22 for quite a while, or at least one that's shootable.
Most of the ones that show up for sale are in .25 or .32 rimfire, or are listed as "parts guns".
I'd dearly love to find an affordable 1885 , falling block rifles have always interested me. Most if not all of the new ones have that half round, half octagon barrel, I'd sooner just have the straight octagon.
Wishful thinking, I guess.
 
#149 ·
Here's wishing everyone a great Thanksgiving! Thanks Stan for some great targets!


RFC Alias: Raydar First name: Ray
Score w/ bonus: 100/100 Class: I Open Sights
Scope: N/A Iron sights: Factory
Rifle make: Winchester Mdl 63 Ammo: Fed 788 BF
Weather condition: Indoors 33 yards
Excuses: None



RFC Alias: Raydar First name: Ray
Score w/ bonus:125/100 Class: I Scoped
Scope: Sightron 3x9 @ 9 Iron sights: N/A
Rifle make: CZ 453 American Ammo: Fed 711 B
Weather conditions: Indoors 33 Yards
Excuses: None
 

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#151 ·
Well done Ray... :bthumb: :bthumb:

Lovely old Winchester! (what year?)


:F
 
#153 ·
Good shooting as usual Ray. I love the lines on the WInchester, reminds me of being young and seeing such things on a more regular basis.



I had to go bag a turkey so.....

RFC Alias: Signmaster
First name: Bob
Score w/ bonus: 110/120
Class: C3 irons
Iron sights: Redfield 75 rear and 68 front
Rifle make: Remington 513T
Ammo: Federal AM22 Automatch
Weather conditions: indoor
Excuses: Nope

Decided to shoot this with a round app, and did a little better. With a plug a couple shots break into the white, but just barely so still an improvement. I thought about it later, and some of the inserts I have (Lee Shaver) are probably great for these odd shaped targets. I have crosshairs, and a "box" one also that might work well. Something further to test!

I tried to make a smaller rear, but don't have anything small enough that works. It's down to sewing needle size, literally. Really enjoying the peeps and learning though.


Bagged my turkey, I hope everyone else has a good Thanksgiving. :bthumb:
 

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#154 ·
Nice shooting Bob and good job on the Turkey.:D
Gehmann makes a reasonable adjustable rear Iris that may or may not help you. I see you say you are down to sewing needle size already and need to go smaller. I on the other hand have mine set fairly large. Your eye relief must be fairly close to your rear sight where mine is further away.
http://www.champchoice.com/store/main.aspx?p=ItemDetailOptions&item=PH510
 
#155 ·
Good job Bob... :bthumb:

Speaking of bagging turkeys, Happy Thanksgiving everyone :D


:F
 
#160 ·
Lots of great looking targets coming in, congratulations to everyone! I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!

RFC Alias: Raydar First name: Ray
Score w/ bonus:120/120 +10Class: II Iron Sights
Scope: N/A Iron sights: Lyman
Rifle make: Winchester 69A Ammo: Fed 711B
Weather conditions: Indoors 33 Yds
Excuses: Printer low on ink so I sighted in & shot for score on same target.


RFC Alias: Raydar First name: Ray
Score w/ bonus:120/120 Class: III Iron Sights
Scope: N/A Iron sights: Redfield
Rifle make: Winchester 52C Ammo: Fed 711B
Weather conditions: Indoors 33 Yds
Excuses: None
 

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#164 ·
Thanks Oystein, I have enjoyed the indoor range a lot lately. I was born here and it seems that the wind blows in Wyoming 11 days out of 10! I put the tunnel (24" culvert 100' long) in when I built the house 31 years ago but didn't take time until I retired to finish it up and install a target retrieval system. I have really enjoyed it since fabricating the retriever, I used to have to go outside every time I wanted to change targets, now it is just a flip of a switch!

The pictures show the retriever drive motor and shuttle; track installation; and clip installation down the tunnel. I was never so glad to finish the track install, crawling down that tunnel ain't no fun, it would have been a lot easier 30 years ago that is for sure.
 

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