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Old 03-26-2020, 08:03 PM
alro41
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Detailed instructions for installing a Vortek kit



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I've got a RWS 34 that is literally a pain to shoot. So ordered a Vortek spring kit, but would like some detailed instructions for installing. What came with the kit is basically disassemble gun, install new spring kit and reassemble gun. I've googled the net and haven't come up with anything useful so far. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-26-2020, 11:05 PM
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As in, pulling the gun apart and reassembling it?
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Old 03-27-2020, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alro41 View Post
I've got a RWS 34 that is literally a pain to shoot. So ordered a Vortek spring kit, but would like some detailed instructions for installing. What came with the kit is basically disassemble gun, install new spring kit and reassemble gun. I've googled the net and haven't come up with anything useful so far. Thanks in advance.
I fabbed a press to do mine the safe way. There's a quicker way but that spring is scary strong.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+spring+change
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Old 03-27-2020, 08:28 PM
alro41
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Originally Posted by Fenring View Post
As in, pulling the gun apart and reassembling it?
Yes, plus everything in between.
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Old 03-27-2020, 09:00 PM
alro41
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I should have mentioned that I also bought a spring compressor from Vortek. I did fine one youtube on the subject but the guy was extremely slow and slow talking that it was hard to stay awake and then right in the middle of the process he said his wife needed the kitchen and ended the video - incredible.
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Old 03-28-2020, 09:05 AM
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First off, I'm surprised at your 34 being a "pain to shoot", most 34 rifles are relatively mild accurate shooters out of the box and tend to get better with more shooting.

I've done one Vortek kit into another model non-break barrel RWS rifle and wasn't "overly" impressed with the result. It did improve cocking ease and shot cycle recoil slightly, but no vast improvements of pellet accuracy or fps.

Over the years I have disassembled a couple break barrel rifles for lube tuning - seal replacement purpose using a bar clamp, so having a spring compressor makes it easier.
There's a lot of little details that go along with this process. I don't feel comfortable going into a step by step, since I've not done it in a few years, and may lead you astray by forgetting something.
I will add though, that it helps to have some mechanical aptitude and remembrance of what order things come apart and go back together.
It also makes for a better install if you take the time to smooth (round file- emory cloth) the inside cut-outs - sharp edges of the compression tube, so to not damage the new seal during re-assembly. After this smoothing, CLEAN CLEAN and Clean thoroughly with degreaser. Lubing the inside tube SPARINGLY will decrease detonation during break-in times.

Good Luck
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Old 03-28-2020, 10:56 AM
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There is a lot of rebuild info here. www.gatewaytoairguns.com
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Old 03-28-2020, 11:25 AM
alro41
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Thanks for the replies. Looks like some good youtube references from Al. Apparently I don't word my searches correctly and I've noticed this before - I just don't get good search results. I'll see what I can screw up this weekend.
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Old 03-28-2020, 04:31 PM
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This is a gas ram 350 Magnum but disassembly is the same, except yours will have a pre tensioned coil spring instead of the gas ram. The main point to see is that there is a spacer used to keep the safety tab away from the spring compressor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rL4ukRx1Omo

Once it's apart you can use wet and dry paper or a very fine file to deburr the cocking slot and remove any sharp edges that can cut the piston seal on reinstallation.

Polish the piston skirt (this is the back end of the piston)

You may or may not find a piston liner. I left the one on my 350 Magnum out when I reassembled it as it was getting torn up a bit anyway.

Clean inside the compression cylinder with white spirit and a paper towel or clean rag on a dowel.

Lightly lube the piston seal, the outside of the spring coils and the piston skirt.

Reassemble! Be careful when reinserting the piston so as not to nick the seal - cleaning up the edges of the cocking slot is a big help with this.

I've pulled my 350 Magnum down a few times and it's pretty easy.

I haven't used a Vortex kit, mine has Maccari internals.
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Old 03-28-2020, 11:05 PM
alro41
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Through references from sites suggested and after I simplified my search request I've found a variety of sites. It's surprising that most sites cover parts of the operation and leave some important info uncovered. My latest search was how to get that new piston seal on. Looks %%%% near impossible and most sites don't have any suggestions on how to install it, but just found one that suggests covering the seal and the rod with silicone lube and "screwing" it on. Will try it tomorrow.
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Old 03-30-2020, 05:07 PM
alro41
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Got the seal on and gun reassembled. Re: the seal, one of those deals where you struggle to do something, then it all of sudden works and you can't figure why it worked or why it didn't work before. The spring kit is a toned down version that Vortek said had a couple coils cut off. The gun is the short barreled Meister Pro, which, in my aged and weakened state, could barely cock in it's original configuration. It is still stiff but manageable and a little .quieter Still not very accurate, i.e. 3/4 inch at 15 yds. My Sheridan Blue Streak will do one hole groups at that range and so will my Sheridan H9 pistol.
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Old 03-31-2020, 02:06 AM
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.177 or .22?

If a .22 try the RWS line of pellets. Superfield is a good one.
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Old 04-01-2020, 08:13 PM
alro41
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It's a .177. I've tried about 7 or 8 different pellets from 8.64 t o 10.65 in weight. They all shoot about the same.
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