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  #1  
Old 11-08-2019, 05:11 PM
william
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Gunsmith For A Marlin 39AS?



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The post I started about my 39AS
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum....php?t=1167561

The smith still hasn't fixed it. Tells me 7 more days, so I wait 20 before going in and then being told soon

Is there a gunsmith that specializes in the Marlin 39s? I rather go thru the trouble of shipping and trusting that it is fixed properly.

TIA!
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2019, 05:24 PM
vepr762
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Gizzy offered his help for free. Did you ever contact him?
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2019, 05:28 PM
william
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I thought he was offering advice. I did not want to try to work on it myself. I don't have the skill, tools or work area.
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  #4  
Old 11-09-2019, 04:00 PM
critterman
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339 smith

Where you located
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  #5  
Old 11-09-2019, 04:02 PM
william
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Quote:
Originally Posted by critterman View Post
Where you located
S.E VA but I am willing to ship to a gunsmith with a good rep for working on 39s
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  #6  
Old 11-09-2019, 05:15 PM
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Gizzy
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I wished i was closer for you. I do not have an FFL so you could not ship to me. I am about to undergo half of my 2 eyes cataract surgery in a couple of weeks anyway. If it was January, and there was a way to get it in my hands, I am your guy.

Maybe vepr knows of a good Marlin smith???
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  #7  
Old 11-09-2019, 05:18 PM
william
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizzy View Post
I wished i was closer for you. I do not have an FFL so you could not ship to me. I am about to undergo half of my 2 eyes cataract surgery in a couple of weeks anyway. If it was January, and there was a way to get it in my hands, I am your guy.

Maybe vepr knows of a good Marlin smith???
Good luck with the surgery. It made a massive difference with my Dad
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  #8  
Old 11-10-2019, 07:43 AM
vepr762
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There are very few "gunsmiths" these days.

When I was still collecting pre-war leverguns the only person I used was John Taylor. John has an impeccable reputation in the single shot world also. He doesn't do wood or refinishing, but he does do outstanding mechanical work.

I had an antique 38-55 that had a dangerous head space issue. John machined and affixed a "grommet" on to the breech. His relines are just about invisible too.

www.johntaylormachine.com

John is old school. Send it in, tell him what the problem is, he fixes it, then sends it back for you to inspect with the invoice attached. I've never been asked for payment up front.
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  #9  
Old 11-10-2019, 08:44 AM
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I actually think this would be a relatively fun and easy thing for you to do yourself. Rimfire lever guns often get lead shavings in the action from people running the lever too slowly or hesitantly so you'll want to know how to take it apart for future cleaning anyway. Crack the gun open and take the bolt out. Pull the firing pin out and make sure it's flat so it can run relatively freely in it's channel. Make sure the tip of the firing pin has some kind of taper on the front. I like to use fine drywall sponges for tuning up firing pins. Clean the firing pin channel out with a cleaner and copper or nylon brush. Yours may be clogged with years of gummy old oil. I like to use a painters brush saturated with light oil to wipe actions out before reassembly. Reassemble with a light oil and wipe off the excess. I like MPro7 LPX. Store the gun muzzle down for a while and continue wiping the excess to ensure it doesn't get back into the wrist of your stock. If you get into it and feel confident you might also take the stocks off your gun and do a more thourogh job with the wood and metal parts individually. Really the only thing you need is a good set of screwdrivers and a few clean towels to work on. I no longer work in the industry so this isn't "professional" advice but I have done maybe a dozen lever guns for customers, the most recent of which was a full restoration on an abused heirloom 39a. Take it as hobbyist advice.
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  #10  
Old 11-11-2019, 12:32 AM
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Denver has gunsmith school with VG reputation. I took in a 1930's revolver... was overwhelmed by thoroughness and low cost. I was charged just their flat fee of $40 + parts + ammo. Forcing cone, timing, cylinder rod, trigger adj and cleaned funk of forty thousand years (firings). OMG deal! OMG results at the range!

Instructors hand out guns to students with the right skill set and coach/inspect/signoff on every item every step of the way. Test fire, diagnose, reassemble multiple times during the process. Not fast but excellent. The generic quote is 10-12 weeks. Mine was ready in 3 weeks.

I think the Fed's let you ship broken long guns to a cert repair place without FFL. But return trip... just do not remember.

Colorado School of Trades - Gunsmithing School, Gun Repair ...
https://schooloftrades.edu

Last edited by DaveInDenver; 11-12-2019 at 12:16 AM.
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  #11  
Old 11-11-2019, 03:27 AM
william
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Denver has gunsmith school with VG reputation. I took in a 1930's revolver... was overwhelmed by thoroughness and low cost. I was charged just their flat fee of $40 + parts + ammo. Forcing cone, timing, cylinder rod, trigger adj and cleaned funk of forty thousand years (firings). OMG deal! OMG results at the range!

Instructors hands out guns to students with the right skill set and coach/inspect/signoff on every item every step of the way. Test fire, diagnose, reassemble multiple times during the process. Not fast but excellent. The generic quote is 10-12 weeks. Mine was ready in 3 weeks.

I think the Fed's let you ship broken long guns to a cert repair place without FFL. But return trip... just do not remember.

Colorado School of Trades - Gunsmithing School, Gun Repair ...
https://schooloftrades.edu
Thanks. I'll look into it
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  #12  
Old 11-11-2019, 10:45 AM
cub308
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Very good info Dave, thanks.
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  #13  
Old 11-13-2019, 09:56 AM
Number10GI
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Give Lee Shaver a call. He has done work on a couple 1885 low wall rifles I have and does great work, and is a pleasant guy to talk to.

This is his web site: http://stores.leeshavergunsmithing.com/

Phone: 417-682-3330
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2019, 04:50 AM
william
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I went in yesterday and told them I just wanted the gun back.

I do not know if it fires because now it does not cycle. 3 rounds down the tube, cycle the action a dozen times, remove the tube and 3 rds fall out. The first rd didn't even make it up on the lifter.

I have had a few suggestions here but I am still hoping to find "The Man" ( or woman ) when it comes to working on Marlin 39s.
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  #15  
Old 11-16-2019, 10:19 AM
william
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Update


I just got back from the range. It fired the 3-4 rds I hand fed. I forgot to look at the cases to see if they had bulged like it did when I took it in.

The rifle will not cycle ammo.
The lever gets jammed open. It doesn't feel wedged it feels locked up tight, then I keep trying to work it and it lets go and closes. It did this twice and only after ejecting a fired case.
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