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  #16  
Old 06-02-2020, 07:27 PM
wachtelhund
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulNZ View Post
Looking good! Ingenious method for making the stylus also, I've been turning mine from aluminium bar with the desired oversize allowance.

When you mention the 2" sanding disk, I presume that this was not mounted in the duplicator router?

Also, have you experimented with different cutter types and what have you found to be best? At the moment I'm running a 1/2" serrated carbide 3-flute up-spiral, actually intended for machining aluminium. It sure strips the wood off, but I'm keen to learn what other cutters are giving particularly good results.
I've turned aluminum also to make stylus and I use long carbide end mill cutters. I used mostly router box bits for taking wood down. The two inch sanding disk screw onto a 1/4" holder for a die grinder. I put one in the router and a second one into the stylus holder. I use the router to sand the last 1/16" of wood away while the stock is in the duplicator following the contour with the stylus. My duplicator head which holds the router and stylus unit pivots, down and up.
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  #17  
Old 06-04-2020, 04:01 AM
PaulNZ

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Ah, I see. If the duplicator head has a pivot that allows you to vary the angle the cutter/disc is presented to the wood regardless of height, that would give a lot of added flexibility. Very nice. I can't quite see it in the photo though?

I'll be doing the last 1/16th of an inch on my duplicated stock the slow way; with hand tools.

Keen to see the finished product!
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  #18  
Old 06-04-2020, 06:59 PM
wachtelhund
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulNZ View Post
Ah, I see. If the duplicator head has a pivot that allows you to vary the angle the cutter/disc is presented to the wood regardless of height, that would give a lot of added flexibility. Very nice. I can't quite see it in the photo though?

I'll be doing the last 1/16th of an inch on my duplicated stock the slow way; with hand tools.

Keen to see the finished product!
Paul, Pics of my duplicator in tilt mode and some of my cutters and stylus's. Most of the aluminum plate used in building my duplicator was purchased from a salvage yard for $1.00 per pound. I milled the sides and edges and it looks like new.
Attached Images
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Last edited by wachtelhund; 06-04-2020 at 07:04 PM.
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  #19  
Old 06-07-2020, 05:23 PM
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Much clearer, thanks. I think that tilt is a very useful feature - I wish I had it on my duplicator. I wonder if with a relocation of the manipulation handles and a suitable friction joint it could even be left unlocked during duplication to give on-the-fly adjustment...
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2020, 05:38 AM
wachtelhund
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Making progress. Last several days I've been taking wood off with a rasp, sanding and cleaning up the action inletting. I added one coat of oil just to see what it looks like. Still have to take off more wood in the forearm and thumb areas and sand. It has one quick sanding with 320 grit paper, before I start to finish it, it will have multiple sandings with 400, 600 and 800 grit sand paper. The cut off the butt and attach butt pad, cut the front end, shape and contour. Then ten coats of oil and several coats of wax. Final will be glass bedding the action. Checkering next winter.
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Last edited by wachtelhund; 06-08-2020 at 05:59 AM.
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  #21  
Old 06-13-2020, 07:41 PM
wachtelhund
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Progress! Forearm is cut and butt is also cut and sanded smooth. The action has been glass bedded. I have a recoil pad and was going to borrow a recoil pad grinding fixture from my gunsmith, but he had loaned it out yesterday, so I'll have to wait a week.

The stock has one coat of oil and has not had the pours sealed yet. Tomorrow I'll start applying the oil finish. Ten coats should do it.
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File Type: jpg P6130275 (2).JPG (357.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg P6130276 (2).JPG (441.5 KB, 2 views)
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  #22  
Old 06-14-2020, 12:41 PM
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Flintlock28
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Nice work; do yourself a favor, and the next time you put a finish on something, stay away from that silly Kid's stuff called oil finish, and use Dye's along with spray Lacquer. A lot less work, and lacquer shows the beauty of Wood better.
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  #23  
Old 06-14-2020, 02:34 PM
wachtelhund
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Originally Posted by Flintlock28 View Post
Nice work; do yourself a favor, and the next time you put a finish on something, stay away from that silly Kid's stuff called oil finish, and use Dye's along with spray Lacquer. A lot less work, and lacquer shows the beauty of Wood better.
True oil finishes take more work, but they look good when finished. Actually what I use is a mixture of BLO, bees wax and turpentine. What I like about oil finishes is the ease in repairing dings and scratches down the road. It will pop when I'm finished. Nothing like an oil finish when the pours are sealed and it is done right. This piece of Bastogne walnut was picked up cheap and didn't have a lot of grain in it. It was heavily coated in varnished when I purchased it and I really couldn't see the grain in it. It was readily available in my garage when I started this project. After cutting it, I wished I had used one of the other walnut slabs that I had. I have several pieces of expensive Australian walnut in my basement.

This piece of Bastogne walnut did have much finer pours than Carlo walnut that I have previously worked with. They were easily sealed in one sludge sanding. I don't know if that is typical of Bastogne walnut or just this piece.

Last edited by wachtelhund; 06-15-2020 at 01:12 AM.
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  #24  
Old 06-18-2020, 12:33 PM
wachtelhund
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Stock just about finished

Stock is finished, just waiting to borrow a recoil pad grinding fixture to grind and attach the butt pad. Six coats of oil rubbed in and each knocked down with 600, 800 and 1000 grit paper, and a coat of paste wax. Rushed but it looks and feels great. Just love walnut and oil finishes.
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File Type: jpg P6170288 (7).JPG (134.6 KB, 3 views)
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  #25  
Old 06-20-2020, 04:44 PM
wachtelhund
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New 770 Stock is Done

New 770 thumb hole stock is done except for sling studs. Recoil pad is installed.
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File Type: jpg P6200303 (2).JPG (308.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg P6200302 (5).JPG (225.9 KB, 1 views)
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