New to me pre-18 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Go Back   RimfireCentral.com Forums > > >

Notices

Join Team RFC to remove these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-27-2011, 07:57 AM
Colby Bruce

Join Date: 
Apr 2002
Location: 
Atlanta, GA
Posts: 
471
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
New to me pre-18



Log in to see fewer ads
Pre -18 made in 1953. Not pristine, but the price was right. I am hoping to shoot it later today.


Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-27-2011, 12:07 PM
Iowahunter
US Navy Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Nov 2006
Location: 
Eastern Iowa
Posts: 
541
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Looks like a good shooter to me. Love the Model 18's
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-28-2011, 03:33 PM
aarondhgraham's Avatar
aarondhgraham
US Air Force Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Dec 2009
Location: 
Stillwater, OK
Posts: 
1,605
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
Congrats on your buy,,,

Hard to beat a K-22 Combat Masterpiece,,,
I have a Model 18 vintage 1966,,,
It's my favorite .22 handgun.

Aarond
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old 03-04-2011, 02:41 PM
porterdog

Join Date: 
Jul 2004
Posts: 
93
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Hey, I just got one too! Can these be dry-fired, or are snapcaps recommended?

TIA!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-04-2011, 03:33 PM
M2HB's Avatar
M2HB is online now
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Apr 2004
Location: 
Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 
29,555
TPC Rating: 
100% (4)
They can be dry fired.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:16 AM
Hammer Down
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Dec 2004
Location: 
In Dixie Land
Posts: 
1,257
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by M2HB View Post
They can be dry fired.
Hello
Not to start any Flame War's here, but I have been told to Not dry fire any gun period. In The Case of this Pre-18 they do have a flat faced hammer with a Transfer Bar style firing pin, but dry firing is Still Metal to Metal and over a period of time it will beat the part's involved including the hammer bushing in the recoil shield of revolver's. If you desire to dry fire any gun simply place fired cases in one first. This allows the firing pin to come in contact with a Dead primer and shell case head instead of Metal to Metal contact... Just a suggestion here of course it's your gun to do with what ya want... Hammerdown
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:46 AM
M2HB's Avatar
M2HB is online now
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Apr 2004
Location: 
Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 
29,555
TPC Rating: 
100% (4)
If you don't make a habit of continually dry firing it won't hurt anything. Normally when people ask about dry firing a rimfire they are referring to peening the chamber. That won't happen with a modern S&W revolver. I don't make a habit of dry firing to practice. I also don't worry about peening a chamber on a S&W revolver.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-11-2011, 08:09 PM
porterdog

Join Date: 
Jul 2004
Posts: 
93
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Thanks for the advice!

I guess I'll just use some spent shells for DF practice.

Got another question.... Mine's a 4 screw. Is there some trick to getting the side plate off? I took out the obvious screws and the sideplate didn't pop out like I thought it would. Now that I'm over 40, I realized that deciding to continue to mess with it might be one of those things I later came to regret, so I put it back in the safe until I could secure the advice of those wiser than me!

3 screws out... where/how do I apply force to jar the sideplate loose?

TIA!
Robert
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-11-2011, 09:11 PM
Colby Bruce

Join Date: 
Apr 2002
Location: 
Atlanta, GA
Posts: 
471
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
If you try to pry the sideplate it will tweak. Remove the stocks and sideplate screws, turn the gun sideplate down in the palm of you hand, and lightly smack the side of the grip frame with a rubber mallet. The sideplate will work it's way off.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-11-2011, 09:45 PM
porterdog

Join Date: 
Jul 2004
Posts: 
93
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
NVM- I'm good.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-13-2011, 10:58 PM
porterdog

Join Date: 
Jul 2004
Posts: 
93
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-14-2011, 07:10 AM
Hammer Down
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Dec 2004
Location: 
In Dixie Land
Posts: 
1,257
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Lightbulb

Quote:
I guess I'll just use some spent shells for DF practice.

Got another question.... Mine's a 4 screw. Is there some trick to getting the side plate off? I took out the obvious screws and the sideplate didn't pop out like I thought it would. Now that I'm over 40, I realized that deciding to continue to mess with it might be one of those things I later came to regret, so I put it back in the safe until I could secure the advice of those wiser than me!

3 screws out... where/how do I apply force to jar the sideplate loose?





Hello Porterdog
Good idea, the use of spent Cartridges will Buffer the transfer bar when the hammer drops and eliminate the Metal to Metal force. In taking the side plate off "It is so easy a Cave Man can do it". Just take all the screw's out like you have done all ready and turn the revolver on it's side with the face plate towards a wood bench top. Lay a Towel under it first. Hold the revolver on a 45 Degree angle and rap the side of the grip frame on the bottom at this 45 degree angle against the wood bench top surface to Jar the side plate loose. it will eventually fall off the gun but if it has never been off since it was shipped it may take a few sharp raps. You won't hurt the gun so long a the bench top is made of wood as it cushions the metal grip frame while doing this. I have done Hundred's of them this way. Once the side plate comes off the gun it will allow the hammer block to fall out too. {On The Old School Revolver's with older style actions }This is no big deal as you simply place it back in the action prior to placing the side plate back on the gun. On Re-assembly of the gun, Once you place the hammer block part with the Lower oval shaped hole placed over the small round raised tip on the rebound spring assembly and the flat top part up under the hammer area, just start the side plate back on the gun at an angle. Be careful in doing this as to not knock off the hammer block part when starting back on with the side plate or it will not allow the plate to fit the frame right or flush. If it does get knocked off after you start the side plate on, simply roll the revolver over like in the beginning and rap the grip frame again to clear it from the frame and start over. Once it is started on, push the corners down so it is level before taking up any of the side plate screw's to keep from tweaking it. Take the screw's up evenly when tightening them even the most forward one that holds the cylinder assembly in place. Once all the screw's are tight, remove the front one, place the cylinder and crane assembly back in the gun, then put the most forward screw back in place and tighten it up good. Place the stocks back on the gun tighten the screw and you are done. I hope this helps, Hammerdown
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:02 PM.

Privacy Policy

DMCA Notice

Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2000-2018 RimfireCentral.com
x