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  #1  
Old 09-04-2016, 11:49 AM
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Still Searching for Rimfire Silencer Treatment and Cleaning



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I have been monkeying around with several methods and materials mentioned in our posts here. I still do not find a protocol for pretreatment and cleaning that makes things "easy". I found an extensive, detailed essay on the subject and thought I would share it, even though I do not completely agree with everything in it. Maybe it has been linked in RFC somewhere, so I apologize if this is a duplication. The article is well written and interesting, to me at least.
http://www.rrdvegas.com/silencer-cleaning.html
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2016, 12:32 PM
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Thanks for that link. Good stuff!
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:25 PM
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Cat bird,
If I remember correctly you have a TS Axiom, have you had any success with the silicone oil treatment on the titanium baffles? Have you tried tumbling with SS pins on them yet?
I have an axiom due in soon.
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  #4  
Old 09-04-2016, 03:55 PM
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I just got an Axiom. After the Form 4 was approved I was far too anxious to shoot it, so I knowingly skipped pre-treating. I initially shot it on my S&W 15-22 and my S&W M&P 22c. Ran about 500 rounds of el cheapo ammo through it between the two guns; when I got around to cleaning it, it was.... dirty.

So I used the fabled "dip" that nobody here seems to want to talk about: 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. Mixed it in a mason jar and then dropped the baffles in to soak. Left em in there for about an hour, maybe a little more. Man, oh, man, most of the junk wiped right off. There were a few deposits that required a light scrubbing with a brush and there were only two spots where I used a dental pick to flake off deposits. The whole operation was unbelievably quick and easy.

So if you decide to use the "dip" you should heed some warnings: wear appropriate protective gear, like gloves & glasses. Make sure your area is very well ventilated. Don't drink the mixture. Dispose of your mess appropriately. Turns out the result after "dipping" is toxic lead acetate, which can be absorbed through your skin and may pose nasty complications down to the third and fourth generation of your and your neighbors offspring. Something like that. Apparently it freaks out nervous chemists.

On another note, the Axiom really sounds great! I got no FRP and tone is quite nice. The rifle shot pretty near the same point of impact as it did unsuppressed, but the pistol was WAY off with the suppressor screwed on... it was nearly a foot lower at 10 yards vs. unsuppressed.

I have not yet tried the Axiom on my bolt guns, but expect it to be pure joy...
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Old 09-04-2016, 04:21 PM
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TT92 This is good to hear and good info. as I am waiting for the government to approve my Axion too .Just curious how long approx. did it take you to get it after you sent in your paper work?
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:34 PM
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I have a Sparrow for my .22LR shooting and have found that my Hornady Ultra Sonic cleaner did a real fine job of getting it clean. I pre-clean with a bit of Corrosion-X and if time presents itself, I keep a small sprayer in the case with my S&W Model 41 and give the Sparrow a small shot. So are this has worked pretty well for me. And, I'm always looking for the easy way out of things.
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:51 PM
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That is prudent they told me via email that tumbling with SS was Ok.
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  #8  
Old 09-04-2016, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersharp View Post
TT92 This is good to hear and good info. as I am waiting for the government to approve my Axion too .Just curious how long approx. did it take you to get it after you sent in your paper work?
It was almost exactly seven months from purchase date until pickup date.

Bought it in early January from Silencer Shop online. They sent it to my chosen dealer on a Form 3, then sent in the Form 4. My check was cashed on February 9th by the ATF. Turns out my Form 4 was approved on July 18th, but my dealer never notified me they received the paper copy. I called the dealer on August 11th to check, and they were like "oh, yeah, got that right here." I picked it up that afternoon.

FWIW, I e-filed a Form 1 for an SBR on February 27th, and it was approved August 16th.

Also have a Form 4 submitted in May (for an SBS), I don't expect to see that until maybe Christmas time.
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:48 PM
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Monocore

I'm assuming that having a monocore would be just a hair easier to clean but it would be nice to know for sure. I should get my stamp this month (Form 4 sent April 3, check cleared April 7) and trying to find out what others do.
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:57 PM
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I am posting without reading any of the other posts.

Here are some products that are known to work:

Froglube (paste or liquid)

Seal1 (paste or liquid)

Dot 5 brake fluid

Also use a wet rotary tumbler from time to time (the ones that use stainless steel pins) and you will be amazed at the results.

The main thing for routine maintenance is after you've been shooting break down your can and wipe it all off. Don't let it set up for a few days.

The wet tumbler though will take care of it all though. After you wet tumble with A LOT of Dawn and a pinch of Lemi shine make sure to re-treat the baffles or core.
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  #11  
Old 09-05-2016, 10:16 PM
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I've done the pure silicone oil treatment, and it works ok. Not as easy as the linked site would portray it, but easy enough. But, as others have noted my preferred method is the wet tumble. Sent my SS baffles from my Spectre II through a tumble and they came out spotless. Expect the he same from my Axiom and Mask baffles once it's time. I am worried about what the SS media will do to the finish of my Sparrow's mono-core. Last thing I want is an unfinished look to the endcap when the tube is coated.
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:48 AM
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ZEP (or Purple Power) and crock pot worked for me.

I had 300 rounds through my Spectre II when I cleaned the first time. I've read mixed results with ultrasonic. All those that invest in a tumbler and SS beads seem happy with the results, but I didn't want to invest that much money and storage space for those components. I also wasn't sure about the time required to dry the SS beads before storing, etc.

I read a thread somewhere where an auto mechanic used a heated parts washer and degreaser on rimfire baffles and was pleased with the results. I thought maybe the heat would help in softening the carbon/lead deposits.

I found a mini crock pot for about $10 at Walmart, filled the pot with a 50/50 mixture of ZEP and hot water, turned it on high and let it soak about an hour. I was happy with the results. Once out of the pot, it took 30-40 minutes to clean the 8 baffles. The baffles furthest from the muzzle wiped clean with a patch and Hoppe's 9. Those closer to the muzzle took some light scrubbing with a bronze brush and Hoppe's. The baffle closest to the muzzle also required a pick to get the gunk out of the semi-circular depressions on top of the baffle. I know you don't have to get the baffles spotless, but this 30-40 minute cleaning had all but the one baffle spotless. (I was cleaning in the garage and didn't notice until I got the dirtiest baffle outside that there was still some gunk in a couple of the depressions that I didn't see inside.)

It gave the baffles a slight purplish tinge which doesn't bother me. Next time I'll increase the soak time to 2 hours which I hope will further soften the crud on the baffles closest to the muzzle.

I used Carbon 2000 and then Hoppe's on the caps and inside of the tube. I think they cleaned up well, but it's hard to tell since they were black to begin with. Next time I may remove the O-rings and put the caps in the crock pot as well.

Not sure if this would work with aluminum baffles as it still required some scrubbing, but I was happy with the results for my SS baffles.

In summary, the crock pot method wasn't magic, but I didn't have to mess with pre-treatment, and I was able to clean the entire suppressor in about an hour, 2 hours if you include the soak time. Total investment was $10 for the crock pot and $10 for a gallon of ZEP.
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  #13  
Old 10-09-2016, 01:49 PM
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The dip is down played because of its toxicity and the need for proper disposal. If a site endorsed its use, it could leave them open to future liability. There are several other cleaning methods that are much safer to use, so why risk it?

The SS pin tumbling method also works well. Just toss the baffles in with whatever brass you are cleaning at the time and go do something else for a few hours.
If you have a monocore and want to protect the end cap's finish, just wrap it with duct tape.
The pins are Stainless Steel and do not require drying. They won't rust even after months of sitting in a wet drum. Been using this method for 5 years and my pins haven't rusted yet.

If you have aluminum baffles, be careful what you clean them with. Anything strong enough to attack the lead will also most likely attack the aluminum. Make sure whatever cleaning agent you use is safe for aluminum.
I have heard Meguire's DUB mag wheel cleaner works well. Haven't tried it yet though.
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  #14  
Old 10-09-2016, 11:09 PM
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The dip works but after using it a couple of times I got the SS pins and a 2-cylinder tumbler from Harbor Freight (I can do 2 loads on different schedules if I want. Haven't, so far.) The SS pins and tumbler will work quietly, painlessly and non-toxic whether you do the silicone thing or not. It helps if you knock the loose stuff off first but not really necessary. I have an AAC Element 2 with K-baffles. A monocore, at least a Sparrow monocore, will not fit in the drum of this tumber.
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:08 AM
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I have treated my Spectre ll with pure silicon and then saw a post somewhere recommending copper anti-seize. After using anti-seize I dropped the baffles into mineral spirits. I think the cleanup was easier and quicker with the anti-seize. I put it back together using copper anti-seize.
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