Adjustable Triggers for Browning Buckmarks - Page 2 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #16  
Old 03-09-2016, 06:15 PM
drshame

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Unless there's a variation in how the disconnector pin fits, I don't think it's a pin issue.
In some cases, as I recall, even without the disconnector pin installed, the pivot of the trigger seemed a little short.
I'm guessing it's some kind of dimensional difference possibly on the top of the trigger and the bottom of the frame where the trigger mounts which may interfere with the movement of the trigger. It doesn't move straight back, but "rocks" backwards on the pivot pin. It needs space to "rock" back and forth and if the trigger hits the frame and limits it's motion, I'm guessing it possibly won't move enough to trip the sear.
Any other ideas?
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  #17  
Old 07-11-2016, 10:52 AM
scoobyshoot

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trigger pull reduced to half

i only reversed the spring,reducing the trigger weight from 3 to 1.4 pound.
no cost,nicer shooting.
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  #18  
Old 08-19-2016, 02:38 PM
LEStroud
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Just for the record...

To be honest I liked my stock BM adjustable trigger just fine. The thing I always hated is that dang gold finish!

I ordered two VQ triggers in ss finish even though I had read here that I may have issues.

I am happy to report that on both my Camper and my new Contour the Volquartsen triggers worked just fine.

And they aren't gold.

Edit to add - thanks OP for the thread, helped me make my mind to finally get rid of that stock trigger. Love this forum.

Last edited by LEStroud; 08-19-2016 at 04:43 PM.
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  #19  
Old 10-04-2016, 01:07 AM
Mike Mills

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When I hear the words "adjustable trigger", I think of sear engagement, length of pull and pull weight. Yes, over travel is in there, too. However, a simple screw to limit over travel does not really constitute an "adjustable trigger".

When I read the title, I got all excited about some after-market truly adjustable trigger.


Edited to add - LOL! I'd forgotten mine has a pull weight adjustment. It's a 5.5 Target model and has a pull weight adjustment screw under the pillar at the back of the frame (hidden by the slide). According to the User Manual, it can take the weight from 2.5 to 5 pounds.

Now, how do I adjust sear engagement????? :-)

Last edited by Mike Mills; 10-04-2016 at 02:13 AM.
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  #20  
Old 10-04-2016, 11:44 AM
gregbenner

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Mills View Post
When I hear the words "adjustable trigger", I think of sear engagement, length of pull and pull weight. Yes, over travel is in there, too. However, a simple screw to limit over travel does not really constitute an "adjustable trigger".

When I read the title, I got all excited about some after-market truly adjustable trigger.


Edited to add - LOL! I'd forgotten mine has a pull weight adjustment. It's a 5.5 Target model and has a pull weight adjustment screw under the pillar at the back of the frame (hidden by the slide). According to the User Manual, it can take the weight from 2.5 to 5 pounds.

Now, how do I adjust sear engagement????? :-)
Mike, I would be interested if you trying the adjustment screw. I have a Silhouette with the adjustment screw but it made very little difference. Seemed more like a fine tune adjustment? However, mine might not would correctly, so would be curious? I purchased the VC stuff (trigger, extractor hammer and a new sear spring) and dropped it to the LGS yesterday to see what magic he can do. Hoping for 2 lbs, with minimal takeup and creep.
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  #21  
Old 10-04-2016, 10:01 PM
Mike Mills

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I don't have any sort of gage for trigger pull weight. Maybe I can rig up a water bottle with a string or some other device.

I do want to be able to use this for NRA conventional pistol bullseye shooting (I think they now call it "precision pistol").

To me, "crisp" (no creep) is far more important than pull weight.
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  #22  
Old 10-05-2016, 12:25 PM
gregbenner

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Quote:
Originally Posted by drshame View Post
Is it possible some triggers may not be simple "Drop-Ins" and require some giunsmiting to make fit?
I can understand making tolerances tight so each one has to be hand-fitted for the closest tolerances to work right. But I don't know if I like th idea of buying a product without being warned first it may need some "tweaking" to work properly.
.
The smith I now use, who works on many of the Olympic 22s, has told me that, although drop in triggers are usually better than stock, they nearly always can be fine tuned better by an accomplished smith. I realize that sounds a bit self serving, but in reality, I think that applies to a whole bunch of stuff. I suspect a really fine trigger takes lots of knowledge and is a real art. The issue, for me, was to find the right smith who wasn't backlogged for several months, and would take the time to talk to me.

I would guess that TademKross/Volquartson etc, who are making drop in parts, are limited by the factory tolerances/precision, and the desire to make something that can usually be installed by a novice. It works most, but not 100% of the time.
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  #23  
Old 07-19-2017, 06:34 PM
BadaBing11
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Trigger options

I'm thinking of getting a Buckmark Field Target, suppressor ready.

I'd like to have a trigger at about 2 lbs. I found one of the Volquartsen hammer/strut replacements online. As said before it is being discontinued.

I called VQ and asked them about it and they said for a large percentage of the users, they had to remove the hammer strut from the original stock trigger, and use it in conjunction with the VQ hammer.

I've never done the strut removal / replacement on a 22, but have done it on a 1911 and the pin comes out quite easy. Is there a challenge with swapping struts that I should know about? If it's not a big deal, I'll buy the hammer now so I have it when my gun arrives.

All comments welcomed,

thanks,

Jeff
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  #24  
Old 08-11-2017, 01:15 PM
dimeman

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I changed up a 2007 Camper URX and put on a carbon fiber slide and bull barrel( like a Buckmark Black Label). The barrel has a short rail underneath for a laser pointer sight. The top rail is like the Contour and Field with the roll pinned blade sight
I also changed the hammer and trigger(black in color) with a VQ replacement.Had to change the hammer link and use the old one(short) from the old hammer...........held in by a roll pin.........easy to punch out the pin .....change links..put the roll pin back in.
Before the change the stock gold Camper trigger tested at 5lb. It now tests at 3lb. Makes a difference in the feel of the trigger.

Last edited by dimeman; 08-11-2017 at 01:16 PM. Reason: changed text
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  #25  
Old 09-15-2017, 11:14 AM
BadaBing11
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Volquartsen Trigger Fitting

I had an issue when I installed my Volquartsen trigger in my Buckmark . The trigger would not reset. Dimeman gave me a tip that he was going to make the geometry of the Volquartsen trigger the same as the Browning factory trigger by filing a flat spot on the radiused section of the VQ trigger ( see pic, Browning trigger on left, VQ on right )

I decided to throw a longshot out there and got out the dreaded dremel. I took metal off directly above the front lip of the VQ trigger and slightly into the radius. A couple of trial and error efforts were required as I didn't want to take off too much, but the trigger resets nicely now. I also took a little off the very top of the shoulder, as I believe it was binding ever so slightly.

I got the trigger on Ebay for $17, and combined with the VQ hammer and sear spring, and lightly polishing the sear, the trigger has no pre travel, no overtravel, and breaks cleanly at 2 lbs. It is every bit as good as my trigger on my SW model 41.

Dimeman, thanks for the tip to work that area of the trigger. Also hope you don't mind me using your picture here as reference.

The pictures shown are premodification. Next time I do a cleaning on the gun, I'll take out the VQ trigger and upload a photo to this thread to show how it looks after the modifications.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg VQ trigger.jpg (84.0 KB, 173 views)

Last edited by BadaBing11; 09-15-2017 at 11:17 AM.
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  #26  
Old 09-15-2017, 12:39 PM
dimeman

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Glad that it worked for you. No problems in using my photo.... it is sure to help others with the VQ trigger not working problem. On these trigger problems--------seems like every Buckmark is different...............

I'm going to try it early next week and see if my filing works.
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  #27  
Old 09-17-2017, 12:46 PM
dimeman

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ON the VQ trigger--- if you get it together and it will fire but will not reset.
You may have to grind or file a little off the trigger in two spots (on each side) so it will have more room to move forward and backward.
The VQ trigger has a different curve of where the trigger meets against the frame in the trigger guard. Some Buckmarks won't reset after putting in a VQ trigger.

Badabing and I have done this modification, and it has fixed the problem of the trigger not resetting after installing the VQ trigger.


photos comparing stock BM and VQ, and stock VQ and modded VQ.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg gold and VQ.jpg (278.7 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg VQ and VQ modded.jpg (378.3 KB, 20 views)

Last edited by dimeman; 09-17-2017 at 12:49 PM. Reason: added text
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