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  #16  
Old 10-09-2015, 03:06 PM
IPSC

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Well folks...here is an update after I was able to use a higher-quality camera. The gun is is now sanded, polished, and filed-out ... to remove as many of the pits and blemishes as possible. You see it now "in the white" with no final finish. Most of the internal parts are not yet installed ( notice missing trigger, etc).

Here are some highlights.

- I chose to use a "Cross-hatch" filing method to get most of the pits out of the side of the barrel. You will notice the final effect is an "X" pattern cross-hatch that lightly remains. I think I will keep the cross-hatch as it visually hides some of the remaining small pits and (IMHO) looks pretty decent. This method keeps the file more flat on the surface and allows the end-result to be less "wavy" compared to other filing methods.

- For the frame, I also used the same cross-hatch procedure to get the pits out, but ended-up with only the forward-slanting hatch marks, to mimic the grip angle slant.

- The entire front strap and trigger guard was riddled in pits....I got all of them out.

- For the slide, I used a sharp and thin rectangular file to dress up each slide serration. For the slide surface, I again used a cross-hatch filing pattern. For the top I used 150 grit paper and used the see-saw polishing strip method to clean up the surface. Of course only after I used files to get the pits out.

- One of the pictures is a top-view of the home-brew slide hold open lever and the safety lever. I used a discarded Buckmark thumb piece from a previous failed attempt to make a hold-open lever, and used that (cut a "slit") for use on the bare original safety lever. This way, both levers visually "match" being Buckmark parts where the thumb contacts these levers. Almost Medalist-like in looks.

- The rear sight aperture had to be straightened to result in a proper "U" sight picture ( the left "Ear" was bent downward if you look at the original picture). The entire sight tang was filed and sanded and then cold-blued. Screw heads here and on the front were dressed down and screw slots recut where needed (front).

Here are the current pics, trying to show views comparable to the "Before" pics posted initially--->





























.

Last edited by IPSC; 01-19-2018 at 02:16 PM.
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  #17  
Old 10-09-2015, 05:57 PM
Waterking566
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Great job!
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  #18  
Old 10-09-2015, 06:14 PM
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I think you did an awesome job.
I can't wait to see it finished.

What is really nice is that you save a firearm that was ruined.
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  #19  
Old 10-09-2015, 08:35 PM
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Excellent work. I think it would look like nice with a Metalife or similar satin finish hard chrome, with blue accents.
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  #20  
Old 10-09-2015, 09:48 PM
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Looking good IPSC! You wouldn't believe that is the same pistol without before and after pictures... can't wait till you get it finished!
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  #21  
Old 10-09-2015, 10:02 PM
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Awesome job!
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  #22  
Old 10-09-2015, 10:30 PM
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Thank you all !!.... I don't have any real specific skills in going after such a project, so this goes to prove anyone can do this, as long as you're careful and are mindful of the smaller details.

The only thing I can say for others who may want to have a go at doing something like this is.... to go slow.... and don't rush any of the steps. It is a very satisfying project for me and soon we will be taking-on the final finish steps. I'm still favoring a satin hard chrome, but deep inside I like the look of a semi-gloss black. We'll see.
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  #23  
Old 10-10-2015, 08:17 AM
chim is online now
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What a fantastic turnaround for that pistol. I'll be watching this one for sure!
__________________
..............chim

Buck Mark Disassembly/Reassembly Page here:

http://chim.embarqspace.com/#
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  #24  
Old 10-10-2015, 09:31 AM
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Guys...your words are encouraging....thanks for the support.

Some folks have asked for some of the initial steps taken. Guys who might try something like this themselves may want take note of some of the things that I tried, although I'm sure other methods could work, too.

- When first received, the gun was encrusted in burned-on carbon and other efflua. An internet search spoke of using boiling Coca-Cola as a cleansing medium, as the acid in Coke has been proven to remove burned-on food crust from the bottom of cooking pans. The gun was totally disassembled and individual parts "cooked" this way, in a pot of boiling Coke. There was an incredible amount of gooey "junk" that was removed. It worked fairly well but was not complete, even after multiple tries.

- I then used a boiling concoction of water and lemon juice concentrate, and this really went to town cleaning all the parts, but the metal took on a dull grey patina from the citric acid. Had to do this a few times too.

- For metal work, I used a set of small diamond files and wet-and-dry sandpaper. I got good results removing pits, using the cross-hatch filing method as that kept a long length of the file in contact with the surface,.... the filed surface ended-up very flat without introducing waviness. I was disappointed that I could only take out 6-7 of the 8 big pit marks on the left-side barrel flat ("Browning Arms Company" side). At this point, the lettering became very shallow and I didn't dare go further.

- There is a remaining series of deeper pits on the frame that is hidden by the grips. I filed these down somewhat but was not successful in getting them all out, without altering the frame too much.

- The magazine. The body surface was cleaned up and reblued in cold-blue. The spring was somewhat weak, so I needed another. I found a Challenger II spring on Ebay, to fit and work perfectly. It was wrongly advertised as a Challenger III spring (which is a coil-spring), and although I mentioned this error to the seller, it is still being advertised this way---> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Browning-Cha...088?rmvSB=true

.... Some might think this was an unusually long and involved process used, when the end-result of getting a good shooting and safe gun, is still so-much in question. I used this nearly useless gun as a training aid, for similar work I might do to other guns, yet still hope I can revive this one if it all goes well. So in that view, I won't be disappointed at whatever transpires.

Thanks again for allowing me to share, and thanks for the support.

.

Last edited by IPSC; 10-10-2015 at 09:46 AM.
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  #25  
Old 10-10-2015, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IPSC;5502024 The [magazine
spring was somewhat weak, so I needed another. I found a Challenger II spring on Ebay, to fit and work perfectly. It was wrongly advertised as a Challenger III spring (which is a coil-spring), and although I mentioned this error to the seller, it is still being advertised this way---> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Browning-Cha...088?rmvSB=true

.
The early C-III magazines had the Z spring. The coil spring came out sometime late in production of the C-III, perhaps mid to late 1985 when the Buck Mark was first introduced. The magazines with the coil spring then fit either the C-II, C-III or the Buck Mark.

On your fixer up project I like the contrast between the black Nomad grip and the in the white look. Thus, I would go with the chrome finish. Good job.

SO
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  #26  
Old 10-10-2015, 02:19 PM
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SO...thanks for the clarification on the CII / CIII spring issue. Who would have known of a running-change in design? I went by the factory exploded parts diagrams and manuals. Strange.

I'm leaning toward the chrome with black grips....although Mark2506 kindly sold me a wooden grip set at a great price...I can change-over as desired. No doubt, a wooden grip with black gun and gold trigger would make a nice visual combo too !!......

.
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  #27  
Old 10-10-2015, 04:19 PM
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It looks like you are doing a great job!
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  #28  
Old 10-10-2015, 05:14 PM
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Thank you Murderman..... it's been a great learning for me .... and today I made another step forward.

I found a jeweler who burnished my 97%-OK gold plated trigger. Didn't need a complete replating. Looks fairly new now !!

In about 1-2 weeks, I will hand-in all the key parts to be hard-chromed.

After that it will re-assemble and then the "string" test...and hopefully a good "shooter" gun.

Last edited by IPSC; 01-21-2018 at 03:12 PM.
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  #29  
Old 10-10-2015, 05:20 PM
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I should have my International Medalist back together at about the same time.

It looks like we will be taking them both out about the same time.
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  #30  
Old 10-10-2015, 05:37 PM
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Wink

Let me tell ya M2HB.... if you have never removed or put a firing pin back into a Belgian Nomad/Challenger/Medalist.... it will try your patience.

The retaining pin for the firing pin is installed and removed from the bottom/inside of the slide. The retaining pin diameter is about 1/8" ( 0.125")...but really is closer to 3mm ( 0.119"). It is a solid pin for 1962-era guns....and seems to be a roll-pin for later guns. The pin is only about 0.314" to 0.344" long ( check dimensions).

You get this roll-pin out by using a 1/16" rod from the TOP of the slide, and punch "down" on the EDGE of the fatter roll-pin directly below. (The roll pin fits in a stepped-channel.....about 0.119" diameter from below for a short distance, then, it steps-down to be the smaller, 1/16" hole towards the top). If for ANY reason you bugger-up the edge of the roll pin, you will have a H#ll of a time getting this roll pin out !! To make it worse, the roll pin is "peened" in-place, so it won't drop down into the gun if it comes loose. Some guns have a peen mark on one side of the hole on the bottom of the slide.....others have 2 peen marks on opposite sides of the hole. You have to drill-out the "peen" material in order for the retaining pin to be removed downwards.

Because I'm in the same boat with this rebuild of the Challenger, I will NOT use a normal roll-pin with one length-wise split. I will use a SPIROL roll pin, and avoid having to re-peen my pin into place.

Here is a blurb on SPIROL....it has a cinnamon-roll build acrhictecture, with a continuous "roll" of the metal without a longitudinal split. Holds tight without further peening required.

http://www.spirol.com/mkt/rs1.php?search=2

SPIROL offers the potential customer a free sample bag to try. If you contact them, ask for the 3mm pin that is at least 0.314" long ( at least 8mm long). If you can't get them, I've got a few extra. Shoot me a note with your address and I'll send you one.

.

Last edited by IPSC; 10-19-2015 at 02:44 PM.
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