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  #16  
Old 03-06-2008, 12:57 PM
MeefZah

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A most excellent, and helpful, thread. Thanks!

I've owned my basic Camper for a month now and have fired 3000+ rounds of varying brands through it.

I enjoy the Buck Mark a lot. A few things of note since this is the "starter" thread:

Carry a flathead screwdriver and the allen wrenches with you to the range; the grip screws and the front sight base screw loosen under recoil and need to be retightened every so often (100 shots or so, for me).

I had a bunch of malfunctions early on (first 800 rounds or so) but now that it is well broken in I have very few malfunctions. Ammo which works the best for me is CCI Mini-Mags; as an example today I fired 400 rounds with ONE failure to extract. The cheap stuff doesn't feed, extract, or fire reliably for me.

I deactivated the magazine safety following Chim's instructions. I prefer it that way.

I bought two spare mags; they make shooting more fun by being able to reload more quickly. I labeled two of them so if I have a malfuction I can see which mag I was shooting.

I use very little of a dry teflon type lube for the inner workings, and light grease on the metal - to - metal areas where the slide, rear sight post, and frame contact each other. Basically the areas where the bluing shows wear. The "C" clip which keeps the recoil spring, rod, and firing pin assembly together blew off a few cleanings ago; it is not needed and I actually find is a lot easier to strip the gun without it. Reassembly without it is a bit more difficult but you get the hang of it soon enough.

If you break or loose a part early on, call Browning. One of the mags I had was defective and they replaced it quickly, and for free. Their customer service seems to be very good.

Last edited by MeefZah; 03-27-2008 at 01:34 AM.
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  #17  
Old 03-06-2008, 01:52 PM
Fulhlr
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Buckmark Starter Thread

My thanks to g&m. This a very worthwhile topic that most Buckmark owners and shooters will really appreciate.
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  #18  
Old 03-06-2008, 04:52 PM
guns&motorcycles

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Glad that this thread could help. If you search around the forum and find something useful that isn't listed, let me know and I'll throw it up there.
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  #19  
Old 11-20-2008, 09:07 PM
edlongrange
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Starter Thread Suggestions

Guns&motorcycles:

The "Starter Thread" is excellent. Thank you!

A few items I have come across that you may want to edit/add:

1. Topic/item - "How do I add an overtravel screw?"
a. The part # listed is for the trigger. When I spoke with Browning on 11/18/2008, they said it does NOT include the set screw ("trigger limit screw silhoutte & varmint"). So you'll want to order it also - # B5152897, $1.25, page 97 of the price list - http://media.browning.com/pdf/parts/..._pricelist.pdf (fast download). The Buck Mark pages are 95-98 (with an exploded view on 98). The Browning parts department number is (800) 322-4626 x 2863 in case you want more info on a part or parts order/ordering - 8-4, M-F, CST. Note that the current price list is dated 1/1/2008. [Yes, I know the links are further down on the page but I think they would be useful here also - "in topic".]
b. The order form is at http://media.browning.com/pdf/parts/partsorderform.pdf. It lists their shipping charge (UPS ground or USPS) at $8.00.
c. I looked at the thread that showed photos of tearing into this pistol (to do the Heggis Flip) and concluded it (tearing into this pistol) is not for me. I contacted the two Browning Service Centers in my area (southern California/Los Angeles) and was advised that installation of the trigger is $50-55. So that is the way I am going. [Taking a bucket full of parts (hopefully a COMPLETE basket) to one of these shops, when I get lost or over my head, is not worth the serious frustration - for me - especially since this is a one-time operation.]

2. Topic/item - "Can I get aftermarket grips?"
a. I spoke with TacSol yesterday (11/19/2008) and was advised that, notwithstanding their absence from their website (Accessories category), all colors of their grip are now also available for the URX frame - same price ($75 direct) AND they are in stock (at least as of that date). I would strongly suggest calling before ordering.
b. I also contacted Nill via e-mail and was advised that they do not have grips for the URX frame (which matches the absence of "URX" in the models list). They advised the volume is too low - they already produce "over 750 models for over 40 brands". Pitty! I will (supposedly) get an e-mail if they decide to go intop production and pass the word along.
[Unclear what your comment on the "This post" line means, "The holes for the grips screws line up, so it would be possible to start with a normal pair of wood grips, and shape them to fit the narrower URX frame." According to Chim's post, the URX grips are narrower, front-to-rear, both at the front and the rear. Nill's claim to fame - and why they are unwilling, at this point, to spend the time to write the software (edit the non-URX program) to cut the wood - is getting a very precise frame fit. Modifying a Nills for the "regular" Buck Mark frame would mean adding back material - akin, I suppose, to trying to build back up a rifle stock to try to tighten up the barreled action that has become loose. Maybe that is not what you meant or I may have misunderstood.]

3. Did you ever get a thread re "How to clean"? I'm new to this pistol and would appreciate a good one on this topic. One portion for a simple after-a-vist-to-the-range cleaning and one for annual spring cleaning.

Ed
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  #20  
Old 11-20-2008, 09:15 PM
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excellent !! thanks for the time & effort !!
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  #21  
Old 11-23-2008, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edlongrange View Post
Guns&motorcycles:

The "Starter Thread" is excellent. Thank you!
You're welcome ... although all I did was plagiarize the smart people on this board

Quote:
Originally Posted by edlongrange View Post
A few items I have come across that you may want to edit/add:

1. Topic/item - "How do I add an overtravel screw?"
a. The part # listed is for the trigger. When I spoke with Browning on 11/18/2008, they said it does NOT include the set screw
I was told the exact same thing, but when my parts showed up I got the screw with the trigger. If this is no longer the case, let me know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edlongrange View Post
b. The order form is at http://media.browning.com/pdf/parts/partsorderform.pdf. It lists their shipping charge (UPS ground or USPS) at $8.00.
Thanks - that info has been added

Quote:
Originally Posted by edlongrange View Post
c. I looked at the thread that showed photos of tearing into this pistol (to do the Heggis Flip) and concluded it (tearing into this pistol) is not for me. I contacted the two Browning Service Centers in my area (southern California/Los Angeles) and was advised that installation of the trigger is $50-55. So that is the way I am going. [Taking a bucket full of parts (hopefully a COMPLETE basket) to one of these shops, when I get lost or over my head, is not worth the serious frustration - for me - especially since this is a one-time operation.]
It can be intimidating to do the first time. If you do try it, there are a lot of people on this board that can talk (er ... type) you through it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edlongrange View Post
2. Topic/item - "Can I get aftermarket grips?"
a. I spoke with TacSol yesterday (11/19/2008) and was advised that, notwithstanding their absence from their website (Accessories category), all colors of their grip are now also available for the URX frame - same price ($75 direct) AND they are in stock (at least as of that date). I would strongly suggest calling before ordering.
Added!

Quote:
Originally Posted by edlongrange View Post
[Unclear what your comment on the "This post" line means, "The holes for the grips screws line up, so it would be possible to start with a normal pair of wood grips, and shape them to fit the narrower URX frame."
Deleted and updated. The link helps show how the grips line up, but you're right, until someone figures out how to cut something longer, it won't help much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edlongrange View Post
3. Did you ever get a thread re "How to clean"? I'm new to this pistol and would appreciate a good one on this topic. One portion for a simple after-a-vist-to-the-range cleaning and one for annual spring cleaning.
I didn't, but I will take a look. If you search around and find one to your liking, post it here and I can add it. The biggest problem with this topic is that there are some people who think their gun is clean until it starts to jam due to filth, and others who strip it down each and every time to the range!
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  #22  
Old 11-24-2008, 04:24 AM
edlongrange
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guns&motorcycles:

On the cleaning I am most concerned about damaging the craown. I was going to get re-started with a bolt action rifle and started reading up on them. Folks that shoot them seriously appear to NEVER touch the crown. They use a bore guide to avoid touching the chamber and the rod goes in from the chamber end of the barrel AND never protrudes through the other end. Since that appears impossible with a buck mark (without major disassembly), I wondered how "avoiding" the crown is managed. With a bore snake or?

Thanks.
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  #23  
Old 11-24-2008, 06:11 AM
chim
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The rifled part of the barrel doesn't get much of anything in it to start with. It can be cleaned with a dry patch or two. The chamber is where the scrubbing needs to be done.

If you don't want to take the barrel off for cleaning, here's a way to get by. Bend a bronze brush so it can be inserted into the chamber with the slide locked back. Dip it in some Hoppes and scrub the chamber.

Next is a trick someone else posted here several years ago. Take a piece of weedeater line and heat one end so you can form it into a button. One poster formed the button by inserting the heated end into a fired case. Point the other end of the line so you can spear a .22 patch. Slide the patch to the button end and use the line to pull the patch from the breech end toward the muzzle.
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..............chim

Buck Mark Disassembly/Reassembly Page here:

http://chim.embarqspace.com/#
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  #24  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chim View Post
The rifled part of the barrel doesn't get much of anything in it to start with. It can be cleaned with a dry patch or two. The chamber is where the scrubbing needs to be done.

If you don't want to take the barrel off for cleaning, here's a way to get by. Bend a bronze brush so it can be inserted into the chamber with the slide locked back. Dip it in some Hoppes and scrub the chamber.

Next is a trick someone else posted here several years ago. Take a piece of weedeater line and heat one end so you can form it into a button. One poster formed the button by inserting the heated end into a fired case. Point the other end of the line so you can spear a .22 patch. Slide the patch to the button end and use the line to pull the patch from the breech end toward the muzzle.
That is exactly what I do, probably because I read a previous post by Chim.

I did a full disassembly every time I shot at first, but I realize that unlike my 1911 that I also shoot a lot, this gun wasn't really made to strip down every time. Some might disagree with this point (which is why I don't include it in the starter thread), but I kept having issues with screws stripping, freezing in place, dropping the star washers in the carpet, etc. I got fed up with all of that, and now I scrub the chamber with a bent brush, then run a boresnake or patch worm down the barrel. When I start to see light primer hits or any other issues, I'll strip it back down and do a full cleaning.

I've seen other posts where people say that they never touch the barrel at all. That's why I wasn't able to find a concise thread that seemed to be a good middle of the road approach for beginners.
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  #25  
Old 11-24-2008, 11:01 PM
edlongrange
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BoreSnake

Is using the BoreSnake sufficient on its own? I only plan on running about 100 rounds through per week (one sitting). [There doesn't seem to be any clubs in the LA/Orange County, California area.]

Thanks.
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  #26  
Old 11-25-2008, 07:54 PM
edlongrange
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Factory Adjustable Set Screw

guns&motorcycles

I received my parts today from Browning. The adjustable trigger (B5152897) does include a set screw. However, it is ground off (and not refinished) on the end that protrudes from the back of the trigger. The set screw supplied installed in the trigger measures 0.030" shorter (0.220") than the separately-avialable set screw (B5152898, 0.250"), which is NOT ground off and is blued or blackened all over.

I was pleased to find that the allen head socket depth is quite substantial, so, unless you don't engage it to the full depth, it seems quite unlikely to round out. I plan on using Loctite Blue #220 after I get the position settled. I will start with the #52898 screw and use it unless the "front" end protrudes too far. [I not interested in finding out how long it will take for the ground off screw to rust and also not interested in oiling it and having oil seep back in and possibly disturb my setting.] My intent is to shorten the travel as much as possible without losing relability.
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  #27  
Old 11-25-2008, 11:33 PM
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Thanks, I'll make note of that. Also, with regards to your other question, I use a solvent in the chamber, and then use the bore snake or patch worm. Some solvent runs down the barrel during the chamber cleaning, but I usually don't specifically soak the barrel. That's just me though!
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  #28  
Old 02-14-2009, 01:16 PM
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Don't forget the B-square weaver rail (that's what I have): http://secure.armorholdings.com/b-sq..._handguns.html.
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  #29  
Old 02-16-2009, 04:59 PM
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Added ... thanks!
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  #30  
Old 03-19-2009, 08:08 PM
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Buckmark Lite weight difference

Please, could anyone explain to me where is the weight diference from the Buckmark URX and the URX Lite?

I assume it will be on the barrel, but I saw no difference on Browning website photos...
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