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Old 08-24-2006, 06:55 PM
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Refinishing my TOZ 78 stock - How To?



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I've decided my TOZ stock is just too blonde. I want something darker and with a hint of red to it like mahogany. I want an oil finish.

I've never done this so stop me before I do something crazy.

I was thinking I should:

1) Strip whatever is on there now off (soak in mineral spirits and then rub/brush/sand what's left off).

2) Apply some sort of stain (no idea what to get)

3) Rub some True Oil (or whatever) into the stock?

4) Be all happy

Here is the before picture:





Can anyone shed some light on refinishing the stock or lend some advice?

Chris

Last edited by Mr_Christopher; 08-24-2006 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:28 PM
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the highlander

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Tips

Chris,

1. Try using something like Easy Off spray-on oven cleaner to strip with steel wool pads, but be sure and wear rubber gloves and use in well-ventilated area upwind of the spray (it burns like all get-out!). This will strip it much quicker and only requires slight "whiskering" after the final strip to smooth the stock out. This will pull any and all finish, oil, sealant, etc. from the wood.

2. Try Birchwood Casey's "Colonial Brown" stain, it's a reddish-brown usually used on muzzle-loaders but gives a reddish-walnut finish similar to a Winchester M70 or some vintage Winchesters. I know Elk Castle in Ft. Worth had some. Apply the stain before you re-seal the stock or fill the pores since you're working on very light birch. Apply repeated coats if necessary to get the depth of color that you want.

3. Use Tru-Oil or Formby's Tung Oil to seal, fill the pores, and finish. Slop on the first two or three coats, allow to dry fairly solid between coats, rubbing down vigorously with 3 ought steel wool pads between coats to get a flat, smooth finish. Once you're satisfied that it can't soak up any more oil, start hand-rubbing light coats of the oil, allow several days drying time between coats and polish with 4 to 6 ought steel wool. When you are satisfied with the quality and depth of the finish, apply a good coat of paste wax (Turtle will work) and buff with a soft cloth or two until you get the desired level of gloss. Remember to do the inside of the action area (if not glass bedded) and the barrel channel as well to completely seal the wood.

I've done several guns this way, including a couple of muzzleloaders. I also "professionally" restored a Winchester M75 and a worn M52 for a local shop this way.
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:38 AM
NorthFork
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Mr. Christopher,


Check your PM.
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:03 PM
j.r. guerra in s. texas

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I've only refinished two firearms in my life, and I was please with the results. Your basic Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil refinishing kit changed my really generic finished Savage 94Y .410 shotgun. I could have gone darker - this is only 4 coats - but I knew time would likely darken it up, so kept it on the lighter side.



The other shotgun finish is what the initial was nearly like - no character at all.



Instructions in the box. Really easy to do.
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Old 08-25-2006, 03:56 PM
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Thanks you guys, this is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I'm going to wait until it cools down before I get started, working in a garage when it is 100 outside is not something I want to do.

I'll post pictures of the project once i get started.

Chris
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Old 08-27-2006, 11:02 AM
hitzy

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These come with either Birch or Beech stocks. Birch can be tricky to stain as it doesn't soak it up too much, Beech is a little easier to work with. They are fantastic little guns, bought 2 of them on sale for $100CAD each, should have bought 10 of them
I personally dig the beech/birch look, nothing else like it on the market.
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Old 08-29-2006, 02:54 PM
abunaitoo
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Orange

The one I got is orange. But plate is orange too. And when I shot it, the orange rubs off on my shirt. Wish I had a white one.
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:01 PM
EricI

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use kwik strip. it is a gel and it works very well without raising the grain. i have refinished several gunstocks before. be sure to start with 400 grit paper and then work down to 600,800 and then 1000 grit for the best results. ALWAYS use a backing block! otherwise your stock will look like crap. a small rubber eraser works very well. cut the paper to fit. the best finish i have used for oil finishes is artistic (refined) grade linseed oil. it is not the thick goey stuff you get at teh hardware store. it works wonders. if you do decide on tung oil, make sure to get the real stuff--the kind that comes from trees. i have seen some "tung oil" that is entirely synthetic.
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Old 09-20-2006, 08:00 PM
Montalban

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I want to refinish my TOz-78-3 too. However, I was thinking I might go a bit wild and try to put a dark grey or blue color to the stock. what would be the best way to apply a color? and what would be the best finish in that case?
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