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  #1  
Old 06-27-2006, 04:29 PM
Sicarii

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Duracoat 1200 Degree vs. GunKote



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I am planning on painting my reciever and new box o' barrels 18" fluted bbl. I'm trying to decide between the walmart 1200 degree engine paint or GunKote. Monetarily speaking, I want to hear that the 1200* paint is great because it is only about $4.95 as opposed to $27. I just want a flat black, which is a color choice both offer. I don't have access to an airbrush either so I would have to buy the rattle can gunkote.

How does the engine paint stand up to regular cleaning solvents? I usually don't use anything super harsh on my .22, just a light powder/bore solvent and some gun oil.

What do you think? Is the gunkote worth the extra money?
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Old 06-27-2006, 06:09 PM
TwistedMind

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I used to build alot of engines and you would be hard pressed to mess up a engine paint with solvents, as long as you put in the prep work. That being said the engine paint is going to be alot more succeptible to nicks and dings because its made for engines and engines don't generally bump and bang into things.

Hope this helps. Personally I would go with the gun coat.
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  #3  
Old 06-27-2006, 06:45 PM
22_boomer
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High temp. engine paint.

I've tried the High temp engine paint and it is durable but I actually prefer the Rust-Oleum profesional grade flat black. One thing that will really tick you off is that bore cleaners like gun scruber and brake cleaner (a lot of people use it) will really screw the paint up. If I get a good coat of the black paint on the rifle part and want to protect it I put a light coat of spray can matte' finish urithane on it -- the down side of that is it may actually give the black paint a slight shine. Try it on a piece of pipe and see if you like it.
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Old 06-27-2006, 06:46 PM
RICOCHET

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sicarii,

if on a budget, as a lot of us here are, try the engine paint first. also used to build race motors and that stuff worked great. prepping is the key to any painting application. at $5.00 its worth a try. spray some on a piece of scrap iron, let it dry and give it a blast of break cleaner or whatever you use as a solvent. since we are not worried about heat here, talk to the counter guys at your auto store. they may know about something better that resists solvents. but if ya have the xtra cash do as *twisted* sugg'd.

keep us posted as to what you use and how well it holds up. there are some here that dont like the shiney look and may have the same ques.

rico.............








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  #5  
Old 06-27-2006, 06:55 PM
Sicarii

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I think I'm going to test the engine paint on the old barrel band. I'm not too worried about scratching or dinging it, I keep the gun in a hard case and am pretty good to it. And, at $5 a can, I can just buy another can and do it again if it gets too scratched up. As soon as all my stuff comes in and I get it all painted/finished and put together I'll put up a post with the results.
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Old 06-27-2006, 06:55 PM
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Well, I'm going to be using Lauer's Duracoat in "WW2 OD Green" on my new project... the plan is to do it over the weekend so I can pass word along. I bought their 4 ounce package with airbrush, propelant, etc... rand me sixty bucks shipped. I'm looking forward to trying it.
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Old 06-27-2006, 07:41 PM
22_boomer
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Sicarii,
From what you said you wanted, the hi-temp paint will work just fine for you. Just be aware that solvents will cause problems -- be sure to put that bore scruber in the bore, not on the paint job.

I did the gunKote from Brownells and it is not affected by anything -- the only problem is the surface prep and having to bake it for an hour.

Last edited by 22_boomer; 06-27-2006 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 06-27-2006, 07:51 PM
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GunKote costs more and is harder to apply but the difference in results is well worth it. I had some bad results years ago with the Gunkote rattle can. Perhaps they have improved it since. I got excellent results with a bulk pint of GunKote and a Testors airbrush set.

The result will be a professional looking, durable finish. Anything you spray paint on will look like, well, spray paint.

Last edited by natman; 06-27-2006 at 07:54 PM.
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  #9  
Old 06-27-2006, 09:40 PM
deadwood83
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I've always had a weird feeling about baking my barrel. It would be a good conversation starter though. Debate about baking the perfect barrel, time, temp, flour, water, sugar etc.

I'm pretty kind to my rifles (if a scratch on my AR-15 shows up i'll stare at it with a very angry look in my eyes for a good 5 minutes before trying to disguise it as well as possible) so if I were in your debockle then i'd try the engine paint.

[nonchalance]Of course, you COULD just go the route that guarantees success... Blue Wonder Gun Blackener.[/nonchalance]

Last edited by deadwood83; 06-27-2006 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 06-27-2006, 09:51 PM
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Most paints for automotive use or spray cans like Krylon with withstand 300 degrees or more. You can bake them all for better durability and hardness so just about anything you want to use will work fine. Baking in the oven or with heat lamps will work good too. Like any surface coating it will be suseptible to chipping to some degree but unless you are using it to pry open doors or hammer nails they will work fine. the up side is that you can always redo it without spending big bucks.
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:19 PM
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I have used gunkote. I didn't like it at all. I have a lot of experience with airbrushes and used a very high quality airbrush. It is a mesh to clean up and stinks to high heaven. The results are no-where near what I wanted. I ordered the "flat black". Their idea of "falt black" is supposed to be an "H&K looking finish". (I would call H&K pistols semi-matte). Instead, the gunkote flat black was about a semi-gloss finish.

When I have refinsihed gun parts and had nice results, I have used two methods: 1)Nickel plating (this can be anywhere from almost chome like to satin nickel...I like the satin better) or 2) Nickel-Teflon plated (this is highly corrosion resistant and add self lubricity). The nickel-teflon plating that I have applied is very similar (if not the exact same) as Robar uses and call "NP3". Basically, Robar isn't some special place that has an "invention". They simply buy nickel-teflon plating solution (and probably equipment) from the big name plating chemical companies. As far as abrasion resistant, I have plated barrels inside and out and fired 9mm through it. No peeling or flaking of any kind has occured. I have also plated an FN bolt. It makes cleanup a snap. Gunk just wipes off. The teflon is impregnated into the nickel; nothing likes to stick (don't try painting over it..even with epoxy paints...as it won;t stick). The problem with this method, is it is expensive to have Robar do it. Unless someone has access to the chemicals and equipment, it is expensive to do (and how many people have plating equipment and chemicals in their garage??). I have plated my own parts much more economically than Robar would plate them for me.

-Dana
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  #12  
Old 06-28-2006, 08:46 AM
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Now Dana that's just not right! You come and tell us about what you would do but this is a do it yourself thread! Come on give us some of the "how to's".

Mike
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  #13  
Old 06-28-2006, 09:17 AM
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I am off to work at the moment. I can't post on "weapons sites" from work. I will give a basic run-down on how to do it when I get a little time. I will try and post tonight.

-Dana
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  #14  
Old 06-28-2006, 12:30 PM
deadwood83
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Or Dana just offer your services cheaper than Robar's.... I've got some stuff that would look mighty fine satin nickel plated...
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  #15  
Old 06-28-2006, 11:17 PM
Dana944T

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Sorry. It is late. I haven't forgoten. I will post how to do this when I get a little time.

As far as offering my services. It depends upon what you want done and what my work (travel) looks like. I don't have an FFL so I can't do anything that would require an FFL.

Here are some pics of what I have plated.

Here is a dissasembled FN bolt that is ni-teflon plated.
http://www.danat.mesanetworks.net/tefnibolta.jpg

This picture is what the plating looks like after being fired. You can see that the brass actually left brass, but there is no peeling or flaking of the plating.
http://www.danat.mesanetworks.net/tefniboltb.jpg

This picture is a standard nickel case and the other is a N-Teflon case.
http://www.danat.mesanetworks.net/Ni_PTFE_Cases.jpg

On this one, you can compare finishes. The slide is satin nickel, the barrel is ni-teflon, and the frame is standard black matte anodized aluminum.
http://www.danat.mesanetworks.net/tefnip89b.jpg

-Dana
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