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Old 10-11-2019, 11:00 AM
WLS

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Buckmark Extractor Adjustment?



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Where do you file the extractor to move the claw away from the case? I've seen in a post on how to move it closer but nothing on moving it the other way.
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Old 10-11-2019, 12:36 PM
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You would have to remove material from the tip of the claw, but why do you think you need to do that? Fill us in.

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Old 10-11-2019, 01:33 PM
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Removing from the tip would add more clearance and hold the bullet looser. But this is achieved with out touching the tip by removing metal from the lower inner portion and not what I was wanting to do.

The gun fails to feed. The round hangs up. If you push the extractor to the right the round will then go into the breach.
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Old 10-11-2019, 02:38 PM
rdas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WLS View Post
The gun fails to feed. The round hangs up. If you push the extractor to the right the round will then go into the breach.
Can you post a photo of your extractor, especially the tip, and also a photo of the position of the components when you get the failure to feed? Is this a new gun, or a used gun that previously worked well, and only recently started having this issue?

Before you start changing the shape of the extractor, you should probably pull out the extractor, extractor plunger, and extractor spring, clean them, and make sure no debris has found it's way into the cutouts in the slide, where those parts sit. Then, when you put them back into place, put a drop of oil on them, and make sure that the extractor can be easily pushed to the right with your finger, and then snaps back into place when you let go of it. The extractor should move side-to-side with minimal effort (about what you'd use to push a button), and should not bind or hang up at any point during it's motion. After every 1,000 rounds or so, put another drop of oil on the extractor, and check it's movement.

You should also inspect the part of the extractor that protrudes from the slide, and the extractor groove in the back of the barrel. The extractor should not be hitting the top or bottom of that groove (doing so suggests that your barrel screw may have come loose, and/or that your top rail screws have come loose). The left-facing part of the extractor head, around the claw tip, will wear against the inside of that groove near the chamber, but it should not be wearing to the point where it is affecting the chamber itself (which would cause failures to feed).

Also note that the extractor claw tip is not supposed to be straight. When viewed from the left, it's rounded, with the lower part curving away from the tip.

My instructions for removing and re-installing the extractor also includes a photo of the extractor tip shape, plus a top-view photo showing the overall shape of the extractor, and the expected movement of the extractor.

It's not normal to have to take a file to a Buckmark extractor to make the gun feed reliably. I have 5 of them, and they see thousands of rounds per year, and they all run stock extractors.

Other things to check that could cause feeding issues:
1) Make sure your top rail screws are tight (~15 inch-lbs).
2) Make sure your barrel screw is tight (~25 inch-lbs).
3) Does your barrel pass the plunk test? If not, clean the chamber.
4) Is gunk built up in the shell casing cutout in the front of the slide?
5) Have you tried different ammo?
6) Have you tried a different magazine?
7) Lube where the slide rubs the frame (top and bottom, left and right), and make sure the slide is not binding during it's cycle.

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Dave
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Old 10-11-2019, 03:31 PM
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Exactly as Dave said, for starters.
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Old 10-11-2019, 06:45 PM
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The gun was bought new and Browning serviced it, but failed to correct the problem. The gun is clean and obviously no one knows how to drift the extractor to the right instead of the left.
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Old 10-11-2019, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WLS View Post
"obviously no one knows how to drift the extractor to the right instead of the left."
Everything that was posted by Dave is intended to help you do some checks on common problems encountered by us Buck Mark owners over decades of use.

I bought my first Buck Mark in 1985, and it's still runs well, and gets it's proper TLC when needed.

You would be well advised to go through Dave's list before you consider butchering your gun.

Your condescending response to us who are trying to help you isn't going to win you any friends here.
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Old 10-12-2019, 09:53 AM
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You can't ask for help and then defend the responses you get as wrong. Dave gave you great advice. I owned three Buckmarks at one time and shot over 300,000 rounds out of them (no, it's not a misprint. It's over 300,000) and never had a problem and never had a problem extracting and never replaced an extractor. I did replace a few ejectors over time. You got good advice, try following it.
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Old 10-12-2019, 10:51 AM
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I have a few .22 semi auto pistols. I do know for a fact that the Buckmark Hunter chamber gets dirty much faster than any of the others. Also, the lead buildup in the Hunter barrel really needs to be checked more often, as well. Preventive maintenance is the key on this one. I really like my Hunter, and now it probably gets more range time than any of the others. The borescope has really helped me find the correct cleaning routine for this beauty. Like all very accurate .22s, proper maintenance is the key to keep them running with no problems with accuracy or function.

PS: Put in a new extractor and see if that works.

Last edited by ammohog; 10-14-2019 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 10-13-2019, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WLS View Post
The gun was bought new and Browning serviced it, but failed to correct the problem. The gun is clean and obviously no one knows how to drift the extractor to the right instead of the left.
You are correct nobody here knows how to 'drift' the extractor to the right because that is only possible by reshaping the extractor hook and is probably not the solution to your feeding problem.

The extractor spring is too weak by itself to stop a round from feeding unless the extractor, extractor plunger or extractor spring is dragging against the slide due to debris or burrs. If the extractor can easily be pushed to the right beyond the case rim recess in the bolt face that is not the problem.

Verify the bottom edge of the extractor is slightly rounded to prevent the extractor hook from digging into the case and that there is sufficient clearance under the extractor hook for the case rim. Ideally the tip of the extractor will land exactly at the junction of the case body and the case rim, but slightly above the case rim generally works just fine. If there isn't room for the case rim under the extractor, material can be removed either from the hook or from the front of the extractor pivot tab.

This extractor in the photo looks slightly more extreme than it actually is.



Nolan
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Old 10-14-2019, 04:08 AM
WLS

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Thanks for your reply, today I got out the drummel and slightly butchered the front of the extractor. Removing a little of the material from the lower left corner. Now the case does not hang up on the extractor. Allowing the round to easily push the extractor to the right side of the slide.

The slide no longer has to be released from it's furthest point to rack the gun. Easier feeding will help eliminate fail to loads.

The only other problem I have to correct is the breach not being fully seated all the time. Interfearing with the trigger reset.

Which will require removing just a little more material from the left side once I figure out a way to indicate the correct spot of contact.

The fail to reset doesn't occur often but it does happen and is anoying.
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Old 10-14-2019, 01:04 PM
rdas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WLS View Post
Thanks for your reply, today I got out the drummel and slightly butchered the front of the extractor. Removing a little of the material from the lower left corner. Now the case does not hang up on the extractor. Allowing the round to easily push the extractor to the right side of the slide.

The slide no longer has to be released from it's furthest point to rack the gun. Easier feeding will help eliminate fail to loads.

The only other problem I have to correct is the breach not being fully seated all the time. Interfearing with the trigger reset.

Which will require removing just a little more material from the left side once I figure out a way to indicate the correct spot of contact.

The fail to reset doesn't occur often but it does happen and is anoying.
Certainly the extractor claw needs to have the correct shape (which is why I provided both a description and a link to photos of it), but I would still encourage you to check for other reasons why your slide is not returning fully to battery with sufficient force (excess drag, unlubed slide, weak recoil spring, debris or burrs in the extractor slot, etc.). As Nolan said, unless something else is wrong, the extractor spring (and thus the lack of extractor movement) is not strong enough to stop the slide by itself. Shortening the claw reach excessively will just induce extraction issues.

That being said, the normal way to check contact is with Dykem layout fluid or a sharpie.

Dave
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Old 10-14-2019, 04:32 PM
WLS

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Finished shaping the extractor today, and the breach fully closes with minimum effort. Don't have a chance to shoot today, but maybe tomorrow. 🙂
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