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  #16  
Old 10-06-2019, 08:53 AM
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I thought it failed the CA drop test LOL
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  #17  
Old 10-06-2019, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by chim View Post
It's really crazy. All I did was loosen my right grip screw and the darned pistol just fell apart
Whoa!!!

I took one of the grip panels off to remove the mag disconnect link and the rest of mine stayed together...got really lucky I guess.
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  #18  
Old 10-06-2019, 03:05 PM
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WoG CAD Buckmark Disassembly/Reassembly Video

This one is a gem:

https://youtu.be/pIgtg7Q5Wx0

DrGunner
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  #19  
Old 10-06-2019, 03:08 PM
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chim, even though it may be a bunch of itty-bitty pieces right now, that Browning turns into a fine looking pistol once assembled!
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  #20  
Old 10-07-2019, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by chim View Post
It's really crazy. All I did was loosen my right grip screw and the darned pistol just fell apart
OMG, the exact same thing happened to me!
No wonder the new owner's manuals say not to take them apart.
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  #21  
Old 10-07-2019, 04:57 PM
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OMG, the exact same thing happened to me!
No wonder the new owner's manuals say not to take them apart.
Oh Noes!!!

I better just leave mine in the case, at least the parts will be contained when it spontaneously disassembles.
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  #22  
Old 10-10-2019, 02:45 AM
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I take mine apart all the time. I replaced the guide rod with Striplins and the gun works great. Easy enough to give it a complete cleaning as needed.
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  #23  
Old 10-10-2019, 10:17 AM
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I take mine apart all the time. I replaced the guide rod with Striplins and the gun works great. Easy enough to give it a complete cleaning as needed.
Did it change the pull weight of your slide?
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  #24  
Old 10-12-2019, 11:52 AM
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Striplins guide rod is the way to go. Nicely polished and eliminated the roughness in my action. 😉
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  #25  
Old 10-14-2019, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RCGuy50 View Post
Did it change the pull weight of your slide?
I don't have one of the Striplin guide rods, but I don't see how it would noticeably affect the pull weight of the slide. Manually racking the slide has to

1) Cock the hammer, if not already cocked... this is by far the hardest part

2) Compress the recoil spring... requires force, but should lessen with usage & time

3) Overcome friction between the slide and other components - top of slide against top rail on both sides, top of recoil guide against the center of the top rail, bottom of slide against both the tops and sides of the frame rails on both sides, inside of slide against the frame post, center bottom of slide against the hammer, back edge of slide against top rail at top and frame at bottom... these should also become easier with time and usage, but are also all the places where you should lube the slide on a regular basis (say, every 300 rounds, when you're cleaning off the rear face of the barrel and the front face of the slide)

4) Move the disconnector down - this should not require much force

Dave
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  #26  
Old 10-14-2019, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DrGunner View Post
This one is a gem:

https://youtu.be/pIgtg7Q5Wx0

DrGunner
Excellent resource Doc. The only thing they left out was the cussin/grunting the first time the barrel retaining screw is removed

Frank
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  #27  
Old 10-14-2019, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LtCrunch View Post
Excellent resource Doc. The only thing they left out was the cussin/grunting the first time the barrel retaining screw is removed

Frank
Hah! You’re right about that!

They should also include the cascade of parts that rain down when you remove the right side grip panel, LOL

I squirt a little PB Blaster penetrating oil into the barrel retention screw a full 24 hours prior to cracking them, and store the pistol muzzle up in a warm spot.

I like those WoG CAD videos. I wish they had a more extensive library.

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  #28  
Old 10-14-2019, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LtCrunch View Post
Excellent resource Doc. The only thing they left out was the cussin/grunting the first time the barrel retaining screw is removed

Frank
Well, as much as I want to like it, there are several issues with that animation. Most are minor, but a few are genuinely important (shown in bold).

They show the magazine button as something that unscrews (it just punches straight out).

The shape of the recoil guide is not even close to correct (it's really tombstone-shaped with very specific cut-outs, that needs to be oriented correctly during reassembly). This could lead you to reassemble it with that part backwards, and it makes parts identification difficult.

The shape of the sear spring is not correct (too many coils, too wide, incorrect leg lengths), and importantly, they show the sear spring in the flipped orientation (legs coming off the bottom of the coils), not the stock orientation (legs coming off the top of the coils). It's also not obvious from the video that the front and rear legs of the sear spring are significantly different lengths, and you need to get that right (long leg forward) during reassembly. Also, it shows the old sear spring... the bends in current sear springs are different.

It skips the step where you retain the mainspring before removing the hammer. Skipping that step is a recipe for disaster. At best, parts go flying. At worst, they injure you. And you're likely to damage parts if you skip that step.

They show the hammer pin going out of the frame the wrong direction (it has to be removed right-to-left). Related to this, it shows the stop open latch spring being independent of the hammer pin, which is simply not the case (the spring fits into a groove in the hammer pin). Also related to this, the hammer pin is the wrong shape (it's missing that groove).

The way they show orienting the safety lever to pull it out of the frame will not work on all Buckmarks. Ask Chim about that, and what happens when a previous owner does it wrong.

It suggests that the ejector wire just pulls up out of the frame. That part is staked into the frame (the frame has been intentionally deformed with a hammer and punch to prevent exactly what they are showing).

The shape of the mainspring is not correct (the real mainspring is much thicker wire than shown). You don't want to confuse the mainspring and recoil spring.

It shows the magazine ejector retaining pin as being flush with the frame, which it is not (in reality, it sticks out to serve as a grip positioning pin). That could lead people to think they've mixed up their pins, when they really haven't.

It's not clear from the video that when inserting the disconnector pin, it must clear the left side of the frame. People often have trouble with this during reassembly.

It's almost impossible to see the c-clip going back onto the recoil guide rod during reassembly.

There also many minor anomalies, like the shape of the sear pin is not correct (reduced end is shorter than shown), it's not obvious that the sear pin fits into the safety click plate, the hammer and sear are shown as being wider than they really are, the magazine spring is too short, the post on the stop open latch is too small, etc.

The order of parts removal shown is definitely not the order to use when actually disassembling the gun. Same for reassembling.

There's also significant variation in parts on actual Buckmarks, which are, understandably, not shown in that animation, aside from simple things like different top rails, barrels, and grips...

The animation shows the pre-2001 slide and related recoil parts.

The animation does not show the mag disconnector safety wire on 2005-present models.

Some Buckmark rear sights are set up very differently than what is shown... the attachment to the rail, the elevation spring, and the rear sight blade setup are completely different.

There are several different types of front sights, besides the one they show.

So... I love that someone took the time to put that animation together, and in general they did a great job, and it does give you a good "overview" of what to expect when disassembling and reassembling a Buckmark, and it can be helpful to see how some of the parts interact, and it is just plain cool to watch, but you definitely do NOT want to use that video as your disassembly/reassembly guide (or your parts list).

Every time I watch it, especially when the hammer pin comes out, what's running through my head is, "I hope people aren't using this as a disassembly guide."

Dave
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  #29  
Old 10-14-2019, 06:07 PM
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Thank You!!!!

Wow, Dave- that’s a thorough breakdown of discrepancies!

I used that vid once myself- to figure out where the mag button leafspring and disconnector “V” spring went back in after I removed my right sided grip panel on my 7.25 URX Contour. I recognized right away that several of the parts did not coincide with my model, mine has a polymer firing pin block with captured spring.
I just assumed that it was just an older model Buckmark than mine and was correct to whatever model it was. It was definitely relevant to my needs and helped me out just fine. Glad you weighed in here, though- I certainly won’t be posting that one to anyone again, other than a simple reference guide for where things go in general.

Regards,

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  #30  
Old 10-15-2019, 10:37 AM
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Yeah, if the animation showed retaining the mainspring before removing the hammer pin, and showed removing the hammer pin in the correct direction, the rest would be forgivable.

My first thought was that it was just a really old Buckmark, too, but it also shows some "newer" parts, like hex-head screws when the old ones were slotted, and the old Buckmarks didn't have the toothed washers under the rail screws, and other little tidbits like that. I would guess that it's based on a mid-90's Buckmark.

Dave
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