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Old 06-20-2019, 11:01 PM
skeet_man

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Beretta 76- Slight redesign/reassembly?



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Just picked up a 76 yesterday. Probably one of the neater guns in my collection. Shot it today and it was a sweetheart to shoot.

I field stripped it yesterday, I wasn't going to remove the shroud, but when I put it back together I forgot to put the pin in, so the shroud slid forward enough after I dropped the slide a few times before I noticed the pin wasn't in there that the pin wouldn't go back in, so I tore the whole gun down and cleaned it, removing and replacing the shroud in the process (torqued both set screws to 25 in/lb w/ blue loctite on reassembly).

Looking at how Beretta attached the shroud to the barrel doesn't seem like the greatest design, and likely has the propensity to impart stress into the barrel (as well as not being the securest method of attachment). The pin keeps the shroud from sliding forward or back (primarily), and the set screws keep it from rotating (primarily). As it is right now the pin doesn't appear to be doing much of anything, in fact it fell right out when I was shooting today, the only thing that keeps it in place is the barrel being pushed or pulled against the shroud so the barrel or shroud puts tension on it.

However, I'm wondering if it would be advantageous to do away with the pin and the set screws, and use retaining compound to permanently glue the shroud to the barrel. Unless I'm missing something there doesn't seem to be any necessity whatsoever to be able to separate the barrel from the shroud, and with the scarcity and cost for parts for this gun, if the barrel or shroud gets irreparably damaged the gun is pretty much toast anyways. Either that or at a minimum I'll probably replace the factory pin with a coiled roll pin so it stays in place and fits a little better.
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Old 06-24-2019, 09:01 PM
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desertmoon

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I'd be reticent to permanently bond the barrel assembly and shroud as sometime in the future you may want to do a deep clenaing and that would be a pain to undo.

Here's a couple options: use a shaft retainer version of loctite on the cross pin. I am not sure what number or color it would be...but it is out there. Then just blue loctite the two screws like you already do. You could use heat just on the cross pin if you even wanted to remove it.

Also, you could use a micrometer ( more accurate for the following purpose ) and measure the diameter of the pin and then order a gage pin that is 5 or 10 or maybe even 15 microns bigger (it's Beretta so it will be metric ) and have a smith or machinist reshape it to the proper length and end profile. Then you could use a more forgiving retainer compound to hold it in place.
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Old 09-20-2019, 05:53 PM
IPSC

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Don't need to go overboard on oversize pins and such. And certainly don't re-engineer a perfectly acceptable way of attaching the front "barrel weight" by gluing it in....that would be a kludge fix for sure. The set screws and the cross-pin hold it in just fine....if the mounting areas aren't hogged out or elongated, or if the roll pin hasn't collapsed along it's lengthwise edge.

Here's a suggestion....the factory pin used is a normal lengthwise-split roll pin. It's 3mm in diameter and 16 mm long. The hole is probably hogged out or maybe got too big after many disassemblies. Instead of a roll pin....use a Spirol-brand COILED roll pin...they even come in 3 strengths as to how many "rolls" they use; think of a cinamon bun swirl (spirol.com)

Try the 3mm first....as that was the standard size, but the Spirol construction may make the starting diameter a bit thicker than a "normal" lengthwise-split roll pin. The exsting roll pin could have collapsed a bit along it's legthwise seam, making it now less than 3mm, if it's an old and re-used pin. Talk to Spirol via phone, tell them you want to test something and they may even send you 2-5 of these for free, instead of you being forced to buy bulk..

Go a bit larger only if you have to:
- 3mm (metric) = 0.118 inches
- 1/8" (US/English) = 0.125 inches



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Last edited by IPSC; 09-20-2019 at 06:00 PM.
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