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  #1  
Old 01-02-2019, 11:25 PM
Terminatorret
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Bearcat Trigger Shoe?



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This may be blasphemy, but as a new OM Super Bearcat owner, I can plead ignorance.
Is there...was there ever...a trigger shoe recommended for the Bearcat. That slender trigger is new to me and seems likely that it would benefit from a wider profile.
Am I totally off base?
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2019, 08:31 AM
chicharrones
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminatorret View Post
This may be blasphemy, but as a new OM Super Bearcat owner, I can plead ignorance.
Is there...was there ever...a trigger shoe recommended for the Bearcat. That slender trigger is new to me and seems likely that it would benefit from a wider profile.
Am I totally off base?

It's a skinny little twig of a trigger alright. Very similar to old 19th century Colt revolvers.

I've never heard of a trigger shoe for the Bearcat.

I can tell you that if the Bearcat fits you well enough so that you can shoot it, you will probably get used to the narrow Bearcat trigger in time.

Even the way my trigger finger engages the trigger . . . which is on the high part of that trigger . . . which reduces leverage . . . which makes the trigger feel stiffer than it really is . . . which amplifies the skinny feeling of that trigger . . .

The Bearcat feels better all around when I shoot it one handed, though.
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Last edited by chicharrones; 01-03-2019 at 08:36 AM.
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2019, 01:00 PM
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I've read everything I can find on Bearcats, and never heard of a trigger shoe. The slim trigger isn't as comfortable as some would like, especially with the factory pull. I fixed mine with Wolff springs.

The factory mainspring is 22 pounds. Wolff sells a set with an 18, and a 16 pound spring. Mine feel much better with the 18 pound. I never tried the 16, as some forums had posts about light strikes with it.

Wolff also has extra power basepin latch springs for all SA Rugers. I tried those in my Bearcats, and like them. Before, just a slight bump would pop the pin out a bit, which can jam the transfer bar. The stronger springs make that less likely.
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2019, 06:26 PM
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Thank you, gentlemen, for your information and recommendations. I ordered Wolff latch and hammer springs today in anticipation of making a great revolver even better!
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Old 01-03-2019, 07:59 PM
chicharrones
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Good choice on the springs.

I have the one step lighter than stock Wolff hammer spring in my Bearcat. Plus, I cleaned up the internals a hair with some careful polishing and reduced the sear on the hammer from the usual Ruger 0.030" to 0.020".

That helped make the skinny trigger much less objectionable.
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Old 01-04-2019, 01:28 PM
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Your OM Super probably has an aluminum ejector rod housing, anodized black. If you so desire, Ruger can sell you a steel blued one. I think they're about $40.

On the Old Models, Ruger bounced back and forth several times between steel and aluminum housings. The New Bearcats (1993 on) all had aluminum, anodized silver on the stainless ones. Finally, I think in 2016, they went with what matched the gun.

My stainless New Bearcats were made in 2011. Before I bought them, I made sure I could get stainless housings. I went with ones made by EWK Arms, the owner was a member here. Bowen Classic Arms also offered them. Both have sinced dropped making them now that Ruger finally uses them.

Your Super would be my choice of an old model, since it has a steel frame. Earlier Bearcats had aluminum frames.
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2019, 05:55 PM
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I've read other blogs about switching the ejector rod housing from aluminum to steel, but what is the advantage other than durability? Do the aluminum ones wear out?
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminatorret View Post
I've read other blogs about switching the ejector rod housing from aluminum to steel, but what is the advantage other than durability? Do the aluminum ones wear out?
First Single-Six I ever had was bought used and I was putting 500 thru it almost every week for months, Shot the second one thousands of rounds too. Have had the present OM SS well over 40 years now.
The ejector housing has never been a problem for me on those and many other Ruger Single actions.

Last edited by rem33; 01-05-2019 at 01:29 AM.
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  #9  
Old 01-05-2019, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminatorret View Post
I've read other blogs about switching the ejector rod housing from aluminum to steel, but what is the advantage other than durability? Do the aluminum ones wear out?
They don't wear out, that I've ever heard. Steel adds an ounce or two to the front half of the gun, which some people think helps balance and accuracy.

It's mostly for looks. Anodizing can't match blued steel or stainless. The early Bearcats had aluminum frames, but the barrel and cylinder were still blued steel. So both finishes were on the gun, anyway. Later OMs had steel everything, except the housing, so it matters more.

The question on an Old Model with a steel frame, is the blue worn where it wouldn't match a brand new blue housing? I think most OM owners stick with the original housing. Birchwood-Casey Aluminum Black touches up black anodize pretty well. On silver anodizing, you can try paint, or strip the anodize off and just buff the housing for a fair match.

For rem33's post, Single-Sixes have went through their own changes in frame, grip frame, and housing metals.

Last edited by bearcatter; 01-21-2019 at 11:07 AM.
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  #10  
Old 01-05-2019, 02:28 PM
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I just added a thread to the Bearcat forum that outlines all the material changes in frames, trigger guards, and ejector rod housings.
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  #11  
Old 01-17-2019, 11:53 AM
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I received my Wolff extra power base pin latch spring and reduced power (16# &18#) hammer springs. I had been watching youtube videos concerning replacing hammer springs in Ruger single action revolvers and was apprehensive about having to remove the trigger guard.
NOT TRUE!
I finally found a BEARCAT (old or new model) disassembly video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6-8TNcPONw

You DO NOT have to remove the trigger guard for Bearcats to replace the hammer spring! I know this is old news for you long-time owners, but the Bearcat replacement is oh-so-simple compared to Single Sixes and Blackhawks.

It took all of 10 minutes for me to replace both latch and hammer springs using a table vice, vice grip, small nail and screwdriver.

The improvement to the hammer spring is most noticeable. Cocking the trigger with my left hand used to be difficult due to my left thumb arthritis (?). Now, it's as easy as pie.

Thanks to all of you for your compliments, input and recommendations.
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2019, 10:10 AM
chicharrones
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Excellent news, Terminatorret.
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  #13  
Old 01-20-2019, 11:33 PM
rem33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminatorret View Post
I received my Wolff extra power base pin latch spring and reduced power (16# &18#) hammer springs. I had been watching youtube videos concerning replacing hammer springs in Ruger single action revolvers and was apprehensive about having to remove the trigger guard.
NOT TRUE!
I finally found a BEARCAT (old or new model) disassembly video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6-8TNcPONw

You DO NOT have to remove the trigger guard for Bearcats to replace the hammer spring! I know this is old news for you long-time owners, but the Bearcat replacement is oh-so-simple compared to Single Sixes and Blackhawks.

It took all of 10 minutes for me to replace both latch and hammer springs using a table vice, vice grip, small nail and screwdriver.

The improvement to the hammer spring is most noticeable. Cocking the trigger with my left hand used to be difficult due to my left thumb arthritis (?). Now, it's as easy as pie.

Thanks to all of you for your compliments, input and recommendations.
This post reminded me that I had cut the hammer spring on my first Super SS carefully watching the primers to not go to far.
I had forgotten I had done that.
I also used a file on the hammer serrations so it would be easier on my thumb. Band-aids were helping but a smoother hammer was better.
I was firing that revolver so much every weekend, cocking it became painful. I can't recall if my thumb had blistered or was just getting sore and raw..
Good memories
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  #14  
Old 01-21-2019, 11:11 AM
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I smoothed sharp hammer serrations with a sanding sponge, on my Bearcats and SP101s.

Wheeler and others make a Ruger Base Pin Latch bit. I've seen some latch tools on their own fixed handle. They have a notch in the center to go around the tip of the screw. Or you can just take the right thickness screwdriver, and file a notch with a round jeweler's file.

Last edited by bearcatter; 01-21-2019 at 11:14 AM.
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