Part-1
I know this should probably be in stock making, but thought it better suited for Single Six.
I've made grips for my Blackhawks and Single Sixes in the past, and I found a nice piece of 12"x12"x4" Redwood that I've had for about 15 years and forgotten. It's highly figured and I always thought it would make some nice grips. The Redwood may be to soft to keep a tight fit on the dowel pin, but may be OK on the SS. I'll find that out later.
If anyone has ever thought of trying to make their own here is how I went about it.
If your buying the wood you will need at minimum 17/32" thickness for a panel to duplicate an OEM. I like my grips a little thicker and start with 9/16". To get a left and right grip out of one panel I would get a piece at least 4"s wide and 9"s long, that will let you capture a diagonal grain picking the best picture framing. I traced an OEM grip on a piece of card stock then cut out the center so I can pick the best offering.
I wanted to try to achieve a book match, but some of it will get lost in the shaping .
Before I cut off from the block I ran face #1 on the jointer. After I cut it of I ran face #2 on the jointer. That was done to make sure they were perfectly flat with no saw marks, as they will be the back of the grip going against the grip frame.
I then re sawed it down the middle giving two book matched 12"x 4"x 9/16" panels that will make a few sets.
Assuming you bought lumber this is where I'll start. There is a lot of pictures so I'm going to number steps and pics to try to make it user friendly.
Step-1
Now trace the grip or pattern on the side that will face out. The tracing is only so you can get your grain orientation as you want it. The main thing you want is the top and front. All other tracing will be done on the back.
You'll notice in a later picture that I marked a red X on the face, so I Know not to use those lines.
pic-1
Step-2
Now make the top and front cut leaving the line. I then use a disk sander to sneak up on the line, checking fit often, with the grip panel dowel removed.
pic-1
In this picture you'll see that the front cut isn't a square cut. All of the grip frames on mine have a stand out that leaves a slight gap.
pic-2
Step-3
Next a relief cut has to be made on the top front inside of the panel. I used a coping saw for the bottom cut then a chisel to remove down to the cut. If you go to deep on the cut it won't be covered by the cap at the top of the grip frame.
Step-4
I have tried other methods of making a mark then drilling the back for the roll pin, but have had a few holes came out slightly off. If you do get a hole that is off it can be filled with 5 minute epoxy then re drilled the next day.
Making sure your tight into the top and front tape it to the frame making sure to not cover the hole for the pin in the frame.
Drill a 5/32" hole, 5/32'' deep with a brad point bit, using the grip frame as a guide.
On the first one I used a twist bit instead of the brad point that I should have, and had to fill the hole and re drill.
Step-5
With the roll pin back in the frame put the panel on and trace the frame.
pic-1
pic-2
Step-6
Cut out the frame tracing on the back of the panel
Here is two sets of Redwood, and a set of Cherry on the bottom that have been cut out, and ready for fitting.
Step-6
I use a 1" drum running about 1,750, to do the front and back checking fit often. I do the bottom after on a disk, then come back to the drum to finish the rounded corners .
pic-1
Once you get down to the line put the panel on the frame and retrace that fine edge with a freshly sharpened pencil then go lightly until the line is gone and you have the fit your looking for.
pic-2
Step-7
Now I use a small disk set at a slight angle to sneak up on the bottom. I don't care for the sharper angle that is on the OEM grips, and after making a few sets have found that slightly off of square adds a 1/16' or so to the bottom of the grip, and feels better to me.
You have to be careful on the bottom, slow checking fit often. It can go bad real fast giving to much reveal at the front and not the back or vice versa.
pic-1
I then went back to the drum and touched the corners.
This is what you want at this stage.
Step-8
Before I start shaping I use an OEM gip and an awl to mark the hole for the grip screw. Then tape left and right panel together and drill on press.
I've been writing this for a while editing and adding to it as I go, and as I'm making the grips, then I'll copy and post the thread.
I 'm going to post the first part before I touch a wrong key and loose it.
The shaping process will come in post #2, and I should have them, and part 2 done in a few days.
I know this should probably be in stock making, but thought it better suited for Single Six.
I've made grips for my Blackhawks and Single Sixes in the past, and I found a nice piece of 12"x12"x4" Redwood that I've had for about 15 years and forgotten. It's highly figured and I always thought it would make some nice grips. The Redwood may be to soft to keep a tight fit on the dowel pin, but may be OK on the SS. I'll find that out later.
If anyone has ever thought of trying to make their own here is how I went about it.
If your buying the wood you will need at minimum 17/32" thickness for a panel to duplicate an OEM. I like my grips a little thicker and start with 9/16". To get a left and right grip out of one panel I would get a piece at least 4"s wide and 9"s long, that will let you capture a diagonal grain picking the best picture framing. I traced an OEM grip on a piece of card stock then cut out the center so I can pick the best offering.
I wanted to try to achieve a book match, but some of it will get lost in the shaping .
Before I cut off from the block I ran face #1 on the jointer. After I cut it of I ran face #2 on the jointer. That was done to make sure they were perfectly flat with no saw marks, as they will be the back of the grip going against the grip frame.
I then re sawed it down the middle giving two book matched 12"x 4"x 9/16" panels that will make a few sets.
Assuming you bought lumber this is where I'll start. There is a lot of pictures so I'm going to number steps and pics to try to make it user friendly.
Step-1
Now trace the grip or pattern on the side that will face out. The tracing is only so you can get your grain orientation as you want it. The main thing you want is the top and front. All other tracing will be done on the back.
You'll notice in a later picture that I marked a red X on the face, so I Know not to use those lines.
pic-1
Step-2
Now make the top and front cut leaving the line. I then use a disk sander to sneak up on the line, checking fit often, with the grip panel dowel removed.
pic-1
In this picture you'll see that the front cut isn't a square cut. All of the grip frames on mine have a stand out that leaves a slight gap.
pic-2
Step-3
Next a relief cut has to be made on the top front inside of the panel. I used a coping saw for the bottom cut then a chisel to remove down to the cut. If you go to deep on the cut it won't be covered by the cap at the top of the grip frame.
Step-4
I have tried other methods of making a mark then drilling the back for the roll pin, but have had a few holes came out slightly off. If you do get a hole that is off it can be filled with 5 minute epoxy then re drilled the next day.
Making sure your tight into the top and front tape it to the frame making sure to not cover the hole for the pin in the frame.
Drill a 5/32" hole, 5/32'' deep with a brad point bit, using the grip frame as a guide.
On the first one I used a twist bit instead of the brad point that I should have, and had to fill the hole and re drill.
Step-5
With the roll pin back in the frame put the panel on and trace the frame.
pic-1
pic-2
Step-6
Cut out the frame tracing on the back of the panel
Here is two sets of Redwood, and a set of Cherry on the bottom that have been cut out, and ready for fitting.
Step-6
I use a 1" drum running about 1,750, to do the front and back checking fit often. I do the bottom after on a disk, then come back to the drum to finish the rounded corners .
pic-1
Once you get down to the line put the panel on the frame and retrace that fine edge with a freshly sharpened pencil then go lightly until the line is gone and you have the fit your looking for.
pic-2
Step-7
Now I use a small disk set at a slight angle to sneak up on the bottom. I don't care for the sharper angle that is on the OEM grips, and after making a few sets have found that slightly off of square adds a 1/16' or so to the bottom of the grip, and feels better to me.
You have to be careful on the bottom, slow checking fit often. It can go bad real fast giving to much reveal at the front and not the back or vice versa.
pic-1
I then went back to the drum and touched the corners.
This is what you want at this stage.
Step-8
Before I start shaping I use an OEM gip and an awl to mark the hole for the grip screw. Then tape left and right panel together and drill on press.
I've been writing this for a while editing and adding to it as I go, and as I'm making the grips, then I'll copy and post the thread.
I 'm going to post the first part before I touch a wrong key and loose it.
The shaping process will come in post #2, and I should have them, and part 2 done in a few days.