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How To Make Your Own Single Six Grips.

6K views 21 replies 15 participants last post by  Hawkeye57 
#1 · (Edited)
Part-1

I know this should probably be in stock making, but thought it better suited for Single Six.

I've made grips for my Blackhawks and Single Sixes in the past, and I found a nice piece of 12"x12"x4" Redwood that I've had for about 15 years and forgotten. It's highly figured and I always thought it would make some nice grips. The Redwood may be to soft to keep a tight fit on the dowel pin, but may be OK on the SS. I'll find that out later.
If anyone has ever thought of trying to make their own here is how I went about it.

If your buying the wood you will need at minimum 17/32" thickness for a panel to duplicate an OEM. I like my grips a little thicker and start with 9/16". To get a left and right grip out of one panel I would get a piece at least 4"s wide and 9"s long, that will let you capture a diagonal grain picking the best picture framing. I traced an OEM grip on a piece of card stock then cut out the center so I can pick the best offering.


I wanted to try to achieve a book match, but some of it will get lost in the shaping .

Before I cut off from the block I ran face #1 on the jointer. After I cut it of I ran face #2 on the jointer. That was done to make sure they were perfectly flat with no saw marks, as they will be the back of the grip going against the grip frame.
I then re sawed it down the middle giving two book matched 12"x 4"x 9/16" panels that will make a few sets.



Assuming you bought lumber this is where I'll start. There is a lot of pictures so I'm going to number steps and pics to try to make it user friendly.:D

Step-1
Now trace the grip or pattern on the side that will face out. The tracing is only so you can get your grain orientation as you want it. The main thing you want is the top and front. All other tracing will be done on the back.
You'll notice in a later picture that I marked a red X on the face, so I Know not to use those lines.
pic-1


Step-2
Now make the top and front cut leaving the line. I then use a disk sander to sneak up on the line, checking fit often, with the grip panel dowel removed.
pic-1

In this picture you'll see that the front cut isn't a square cut. All of the grip frames on mine have a stand out that leaves a slight gap.
pic-2


Step-3
Next a relief cut has to be made on the top front inside of the panel. I used a coping saw for the bottom cut then a chisel to remove down to the cut. If you go to deep on the cut it won't be covered by the cap at the top of the grip frame.


Step-4
I have tried other methods of making a mark then drilling the back for the roll pin, but have had a few holes came out slightly off. If you do get a hole that is off it can be filled with 5 minute epoxy then re drilled the next day.
Making sure your tight into the top and front tape it to the frame making sure to not cover the hole for the pin in the frame.


Drill a 5/32" hole, 5/32'' deep with a brad point bit, using the grip frame as a guide.
On the first one I used a twist bit instead of the brad point that I should have, and had to fill the hole and re drill.



Step-5
With the roll pin back in the frame put the panel on and trace the frame.
pic-1

pic-2


Step-6
Cut out the frame tracing on the back of the panel

Here is two sets of Redwood, and a set of Cherry on the bottom that have been cut out, and ready for fitting.


Step-6
I use a 1" drum running about 1,750, to do the front and back checking fit often. I do the bottom after on a disk, then come back to the drum to finish the rounded corners .

pic-1


Once you get down to the line put the panel on the frame and retrace that fine edge with a freshly sharpened pencil then go lightly until the line is gone and you have the fit your looking for.

pic-2


Step-7
Now I use a small disk set at a slight angle to sneak up on the bottom. I don't care for the sharper angle that is on the OEM grips, and after making a few sets have found that slightly off of square adds a 1/16' or so to the bottom of the grip, and feels better to me.
You have to be careful on the bottom, slow checking fit often. It can go bad real fast giving to much reveal at the front and not the back or vice versa.

pic-1

I then went back to the drum and touched the corners.

This is what you want at this stage.





Step-8
Before I start shaping I use an OEM gip and an awl to mark the hole for the grip screw. Then tape left and right panel together and drill on press.


I've been writing this for a while editing and adding to it as I go, and as I'm making the grips, then I'll copy and post the thread.
I 'm going to post the first part before I touch a wrong key and loose it. :eek:

The shaping process will come in post #2, and I should have them, and part 2 done in a few days.
 
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19
#2 · (Edited)
Part -2

Part 2

I made my first few sets about 5 years ago just before I joined RFC. I had thought about trying it for some time, but coming up with a way to hold them for shaping took some head scratching.
Now a few of you from TWH that are below the Mason Dixon will see some Yankee Ingenuity. ;)

Now continuing
Step-9

Mark a line on the top and bottom of the grip for the desired thickness.
pic-1


pic-2


There may be another way to hold them securely but this is the only way that I came up with.
I made a jig / fixture to hold them with double sided tape.

pic-3



pic-4


pic-5


Step-10

Now I go to the belt sander and remove the bulk. Using the lines on the top and bottom of the panels for a guide
You don't have to have a floor model or benchtop sander to do this. You can make a jig to hold a portable sander in place as I did.

pic-1


pic-2


Step-11


The saw cuts on the back of my grip holder are there to help keep the holder in place while I use a 4 Hand rasp to do the shaping.
It helps to have an old set of grips to compare as you do your shaping.

pic-1


pic-2


I like mine a little thicker than the walnut OEM's.
This one has been shaped with the rasp, and is ready for sanding.

pic-3


When rasping don't go to the edge on the front and back of the panel.
That can be sanded easily

pic-4


Step-12

Sanding

When sanding ease into that edge, blending it but don't loose it. Save that for after sanding, and you test fit them back on the frame. Then you can finish the edge off getting the reveal that you want.
I work my way up using 100 - 150 - 220 - 320 - 420 - 600.
Once I sand them with the 220 I wipe them with a paper towel wet with water and rung out, to raise the grain.
I then give them another pass with the same worn piece of 220 before I move up to the next grit. I continue raising the grain the rest of the way through my next three grits.

Step-13

Once you test fit them and sand the edge if needed, drill the hole for the escutcheons .

My hole for my grip screw was 7/64" and drilled in step-8 in part one.
I now put the 7/64" bit back in the press and bring the spindle down and lock it in place while I tape the grip to the table.

pic-1


Now raise the spindle and replace the 7/ 64'' with a brad point or forstner the size of the escutcheon and drill to depth. I used a piece of bent wire as a gage to check the depth as I went.

pic-2


After you drill use a piece of paper to deburr the edge of the hole.

That's it .
Their ready for your finish of choice.

I have used a mix of BLO, spirits and varnish, and also minwax antique tung oil in the past. They both turned out ok, and held up good.

This time I'm going to try Tru-Oil.

This is the first coat, and it looks like the Cherry may get by with about 7 coats, but the Redwood is sucking it up and will take a few more.





After their finished I'm going to leave them sit for about a month then rub them with rotten stone to cut the gloss, then wax.
I'll post a picture after they get done.
 
#6 ·
Part-2 has been posted.

Thanks for the interest guys.
It took a while to take pictures and go through them, then write the thread, but I thought it may nudge someone who does some woodworking to go ahead and give it a try.
 
#10 ·
Nicely done! Thanks for posting.

A few yrs ago I made a pair for a different brand SA 22 out of red oak. All done without power tools except for cutting the grip outline. I figured the less power tools I used the less chance I had to make mistakes. The most difficult part was holding the grips while using a rasp so I see why you made the jig. I ended up clamping them in a vise with rubber jaw faces and additional leather padding. I originally used pins to keep the grips from sliding but they were too small and didn't stay tight long. Gluing in wood blocks finally held them in place and the pins are gone. Truoil was used for the finish.
 
#11 ·
For any that may be following progress.

They just got their 9th coat of Tru-oil a few days ago, and the escutcheons put in. After curing for 3 or 4 weeks I'll rub them out with rottenstone, and give them a coat of wax.
I'll post more pictures after they make it back on the frames, and get them outside under better lighting conditions.





 
#15 ·
I left them cure for about 25 days and finally got them rubbed with Rottenstone, then gave them a coat of Renaissance Wax, cut the screws to length and got them the mounted.

Set #1 Redwood

You can notice a ding to the right of the screw on the right panel. That was caused by a slip of the tool when placing the escutcheon. :eek:
Pic-1

Pic-2

Pic-3


Set #2 Redwood

Pic-1

Pic-2

Pic-3

Pic-4

Pic-5


Set #3 Cherry

The cherry is from a batch that I have made a few other things from, and will take on a good look with age.
Pic-1

Pic-2


These are a few more pictures of set#2 showing the whole gun.
I Like the look of set#2 the best, but Know that the cherry will get better looking, and most likely wear better. But I had to try the Redwood just to see how it would look .





That's the way I came up with to make panel grips.
If making your own you can make them thinner, and also reveal the frame if wanted, the shaping is up to you.

If any of you give it a try and have a question I'm glad to help if I can.

If you do try making some don't start your first set with that knock out eye candy piece of wood. Save that for after you done a test run.
 
#17 ·
Ruger Standard DIMS grips

[Did it myself] Mine are NOT nearly as nice as Hawkey57's.

I had some one inch thick walnut that I have carried around since back in the 70's. Does anybody remember when Decoupage was the b9g thing? It was covered with glue on one side and photos, and other sayings, etc. layered in glue on one side.

At some point in time the 'art' was removed, but I kept the board. Anyway, I kind of free-handed the grips and this was the result.

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VH
 
#21 ·
Just took the time to go through this thread...Well done and thank you...those Redwood grips are beautiful...I am not a chem guy...could you have poly coated them and maybe added to the durability? Beautiful work for sure
 
#22 ·
I thought about Poly, maybe next time I try it and see. Personally I didn't care for the gloss of the tru-oil I used, but thought it would hold up better than things I've used before. Sorta like testing ammo, if you don't try something different you may be missing something. :D
 
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