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Old 07-30-2017, 03:43 PM
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What am I doing wrong with my shooting technique?



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I went back to oem stock and wanted to play around with accuracy. Two shots to the right are me zeroing my red dot.

At 25 ft I can hit the middle with no issues. But then at 50 ft with the red dot on the bullseye my shots group much higher.

I'm a new shooter, is this normal? Do I adjust it for 50ft then adjust again when I want to shoot 25ft?

Using bulk federal ammo



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Old 07-30-2017, 04:27 PM
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A picture is worth a 1,000 words. When its labeled its worth even more. Study this one and let us know what questions you may have after.
Typically most guns are zeroed much further than 25 feet, or did you mean yards?
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Old 07-30-2017, 04:38 PM
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maybe this will help...?

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Old 07-30-2017, 04:43 PM
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No I meant 25 ft. The range max is 50 ft near my house.

Excellent pictures, I will adjust the red dot to 50ft and see if that helps.

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Old 07-30-2017, 05:13 PM
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Sighted for 50' you'll likely be low at 25'. Option A is to make a note of the settings for each range. Option B is do all your shooting at 50' and move out to a longer range when you get the chance -- you'll get better feed back on technique at the longer range.
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Old 08-19-2017, 10:08 PM
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I went to the range again today outdoor range with a bench. Sighted perfect for 25 yards and 50 yards.

What I don't under stand is I can get tight groups when I'm on my bipod. When I freehand shoot the bullet literally groups almost a foot down and to the left of target.......

Duplicated it many times, as soon as I put it back on the bipod I'm on target again.

Is it my holding stance or something? The scope is only at 3x to 5x and crystal clear.

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Old 08-20-2017, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by chomorro View Post
I went to the range again today outdoor range with a bench. Sighted perfect for 25 yards and 50 yards.

What I don't under stand is I can get tight groups when I'm on my bipod. When I freehand shoot the bullet literally groups almost a foot down and to the left of target.......

Duplicated it many times, as soon as I put it back on the bipod I'm on target again.

Is it my holding stance or something? The scope is only at 3x to 5x and crystal clear.

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That big of a difference between a bipod and offhand is not normal, and I'm not sure it's your technique.

The reason I say this is the fact that you say it "literally groups almost a foot down and to the left of target.......

Duplicated it many times"

This tells me (grouping) that what you're doing offhand is at least consistent enough to group, which then makes me ask what is it about your setup that could make the rifle perform so differently between a bipod and offhand. What type of bipod- as in, how does the bipod attach to the rifle?

And it's a Takedown, right?

Soooooo.... the optic is mounted on the "receiver half", and the bipod is mounted on the "barrel half", right?

Which makes me question the connection between the two. If there's any play in that connection, AT ALL, the rifle will do exactly what you describe.

On a bipod, the forward contact point is way up front (assuming your bipod is mounted to the sling stud) and the barrel end will flex upward, relative to the optic. Offhand, it might have a tendency to droop downward, especially since the hand you hold the foreend with is placed very close to that connection.

I would check and double check the connection between both halves, and see if there's any play there. There's simply not enough difference in distance between 25 & 50' for it to be a trajectory thing. It is possible that parallax can cause problems at short distances, but if that were the case, it wouldn't group well at both distances on a bipod in the first place.

Whatever the issue is here, I suspect something about the rifle itself is reacting to different forces placed on it between bipod and offhand.

Sometimes it's the arrow, not the indian...

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Old 08-20-2017, 03:01 AM
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That big of a difference between a bipod and offhand is not normal, and I'm not sure it's your technique.

The reason I say this is the fact that you say it "literally groups almost a foot down and to the left of target.......

Duplicated it many times"

This tells me (grouping) that what you're doing offhand is at least consistent enough to group, which then makes me ask what is it about your setup that could make the rifle perform so differently between a bipod and offhand. What type of bipod- as in, how does the bipod attach to the rifle?

And it's a Takedown, right?

Soooooo.... the optic is mounted on the "receiver half", and the bipod is mounted on the "barrel half", right?

Which makes me question the connection between the two. If there's any play in that connection, AT ALL, the rifle will do exactly what you describe.

On a bipod, the forward contact point is way up front (assuming your bipod is mounted to the sling stud) and the barrel end will flex upward, relative to the optic. Offhand, it might have a tendency to droop downward, especially since the hand you hold the foreend with is placed very close to that connection.

I would check and double check the connection between both halves, and see if there's any play there. There's simply not enough difference in distance between 25 & 50' for it to be a trajectory thing. It is possible that parallax can cause problems at short distances, but if that were the case, it wouldn't group well at both distances on a bipod in the first place.

Whatever the issue is here, I suspect something about the rifle itself is reacting to different forces placed on it between bipod and offhand.

Sometimes it's the arrow, not the indian...

DrGunner
Thank you sir. Excellent explanation.

The bipod is a budget utg that only goes 6". I did perform the tighten procedure that is stated in the manual but I will do it again just to make sure.

I have read that the scope being mounted on the barrel is key for accuracy on the take down but the options I found are not in the budget yet. My budget scope also doesn't have that far an eye relief.

I will tighten up the connection and see where I can get from that.

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Old 08-20-2017, 03:13 AM
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What am I doing wrong with my shooting technique?

Dr G completely nailed it. I have a takedown and I can tell you that it is not a good candidate for a bipod in its stock factory configuration, no matter how much you tighten the barrel to receiver connection. Some of the aftermarket barrels that have the scope attached to them and not the receiver may work better. However, if you plan to do a lot of shooting from a bipod, then I would recommend a regular 10/22 with a stiff one piece stock.

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Old 08-20-2017, 09:42 AM
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Resting the forend of the takedown on anything will cause accuracy issues. We have similar issues with NEF/H&R break actions. To rectify the rest issues, we rest the receiver on the sandbags when shooting from the bench. Sounds like what needs to be done with the TD 10/22s.

Also, where are you holding the offhand on the rifle in the offhand position?
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:07 AM
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Awe shoot I didn't realize the bipod would throw it off so much. So if I sight it on using sand bags it will be more accurate off free hand?

I hold it where the foregrip is in this picture pretty much.

I wanted to shoot this one long distance only pretty much, I have a 15-22 and 22lr 1911 on order for the close stuff. So I need to get a non take down version?



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Old 08-20-2017, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by chomorro View Post
Awe shoot I didn't realize the bipod would throw it off so much. So if I sight it on using sand bags it will be more accurate off free hand?

I hold it where the foregrip is in this picture pretty much.

I wanted to shoot this one long distance only pretty much, I have a 15-22 and 22lr 1911 on order for the close stuff. So I need to get a non take down version?



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1) Sandbags should help, especially if you bag it at or behind the connection point.

2) I moderate the Ultimate 10-22 forum here, and 100 yards is the most common distance I shoot. Of all the available models of 10-22 produced, the TD model is the LAST one I would recommend for long distance accuracy. I don't own one, never have, never will- simply because I have no need to make any of my rifles compact, and I avoid inherent design instability where I see it when selecting a firearm.

This may seem critical but I call it as I see it- sorry if that feels like I'm bashing your rifle. I don't mean to be harsh, and I'm sure you're disappointed right now but I feel you'd be better served by honesty rather than suggestions on how to try and "fix" a rifle that may never meet your reasonable expectations.

If I ever wanted a light weight backpacker, I'd build a light underfolder stocked rifle with a Kidd 16" ULW or VQ Carbon fiber tension barrel, but I have expensive habits where 10-22s are concerned.

For your desired purpose, look into the LVT model- 1234 or 1235.

If money is no object, skip the Ruger and buy a full Kidd rifle. No more farting around, just worry about your ammo budget, lol.

20" Hammer forged Varmint taper barrel

http://www.ruger.com/products/1022Sp...eets/1235.html

Kidd:

http://www.kiddinnovativedesign.com



Hope this helps-

DrGunner
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:59 AM
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Listen to DGunner. Unfortunately, the TDs and long range accuracy jobs like you are trying to accomplish may not be compatible. Its one reason I havent bought a TD yet. I need to identify where their strengths are and build one accordingly.

Id recommend reading more on these forums before further purchases. There is a treasure trove of information here.

Good luck!

Last edited by Plainsman; 08-20-2017 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 08-20-2017, 11:07 AM
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Excellent, thank you for all the information

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Old 08-20-2017, 11:13 AM
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Excellent, thank you for all the information

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No prob- oh- and

Hey, a NEW Member- WELCOME to RFC!!!!!


Regards- DrGunner
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