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  #1  
Old 03-28-2021, 09:36 AM
lasnyder
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re-springing the MK IV lite



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any tips on recoil spring weight/tension on a 22/45 MKIV lite?...the factory recoil spring seems to be overly stiff, in addition to the reciprocating bolt needing to cock the hammer, and does not reliably cycle with some high velocity ammo... I just ordered the Volquartsen 3 spring kit... when I shot a .45 manufacturers had a pretty good # annotation on the package, and later I had a pretty good reference with actual wire diameter to spring rate...don't see an easy way to calibrate the springs other than trial and change...

my MKIV occasionally does not cycle far enough to cock the hammer and it re chambers the empty case... I shoot CCI Blazer (have a little squirreled away during the drought) and it works in my G44, M41, HS Citation, 10/22 and CMMG conversion on my SBR , and the spring and guide are well lubed and free to travel

thank you
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:26 AM
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It takes awhile to break stock spring in you can polish guide rod some
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:58 AM
DrewBone

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I've never heard of a properly installed and lubricated Ruger Mark series OEM recoil spring being reported as overly stiff or strong.

Before going off on a spring adventure I'd disassemble the pistol and thoroughly clean the inside of the receiver, the bolt, and the recoil assembly, then apply some Super Lube synthetic grease s-p-a-r-i-n-g-l-y to the outer surface of the bolt and some on the recoil spring guide...and shoot it.

It's often suggested by semi auto rimfire handgun manufacturers to run 200 or so rounds of CCI Mini-Mags through a new pistol. I believe that this helps to smooth out any sharp or tight surfaces that may be causing friction during it's first use and early operation that can lead to malfunctions. So clean, relube, and try running some CCI Mini-Mags through that bad boy and hopefully when you return to using SV ammo the prior issues you've been encountering will have been eliminated.
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2021, 01:44 PM
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I've had my Mark IV 22/45 lite for 3 years now. When I first got it I ran 500 rounds of CCI Mini Mags through it and that broke it in. I'm now shooting Federal 36 grain ammo and it's working fine.

If in doubt get a Volquartsen spring kit. It has a light, heavy and stock spring in it and is good for replacements. It also helps if you plan on using SV ammo.
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Old 03-28-2021, 02:48 PM
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Break in, cleaning, and lubing are all good suggestions. But Turtle is on the right track with smoothing up the recoil spring guide rod. Not too hard to do, but the VQ rod you ordered should be pretty good already.

The area most people miss is rough tooling marks on the bolt. My Mk3 had the same issues cycling underpowered ammo until I went on a friction "search and destroy mission". The biggest problem with the bolt is the bottom area that slides between the tabs on the top of the ejector. The other big place to check are the sides of the cutout area that ride around the bolt stop pin.

It also helps to smooth up the hammer face and bolt radius where they ride past each other in cocking the gun.

As the round count starts going up, you should be able to identify addition high friction areas in the form of "rub marks". I do a complete tear down for cleaning and inspection at around every 3k rounds. And I replace the extractor and FP rebound spring at around 12k rounds. Don't even remember what a failure looks like at this point.
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Old 03-30-2021, 01:37 PM
lasnyder
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thanks all... I did check the spring guide and lube it pretty well with Mercury Outboard Quicksilver racing oil that dissipates carbon well... I inspected the bolt and did not see any obvious wear marks nor on the hammer face... it has about 600 CCI Blazer through it... free running the guide rod and spring alone there was not obvious drag where the rod passes through the front plate... thank you... regards

while waiting for the spring kit, I have the bolt locked back... used to work on the 1911s
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Old 04-03-2021, 07:13 PM
lasnyder
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Volquartsen spring kit came today... the spring guide threads into the rear fork unit... I used a pair of vise grips to lightly hold the fork unit, and broke the threads loose...the non compressed spring is about 2x the length of the compressed .... holding in my hand and trying to get the threads started was a little uncomfortable, so I stuck a large band aid to the palm of my hand... broke the outside edges of the front guide hole with a tapered ream.... compressed the spring a little at a time and held with my fingers as I screwed the rear fork in place... tightened without any locktite (for now) with the light weight spring... try it out Tuesday... regards
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Old 04-03-2021, 07:46 PM
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Next time when you depress the spring hold it in place with your vice grips. Makes it much easier.

Good shooting. Replacing the springs has helped me a number of times. I have over 75K rounds through my Black Mamba and have replaced the spring especially when I change from HV to SV ammo.
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Old 04-04-2021, 06:50 PM
lasnyder
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AzShooter... did you ever trim a factory spring to fire standard velocity?....I'm thinking maybe 1/2" or so might be a good compromise, reduce the closed force, and keep the larger diameter wire
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Old 04-04-2021, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasnyder View Post
AzShooter... did you ever trim a factory spring to fire standard velocity?....I'm thinking maybe 1/2" or so might be a good compromise, reduce the closed force, and keep the larger diameter wire
I've never tried that. I always buy a new spring from Volquartsen. Perhaps I will give that a try and see what happens. Thanks for the idea.
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:17 PM
lasnyder
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final follow up... I'm getting old (73) and forgot to lubricate the hammer spring during my initial check out of the pistol... I installed the VQ lite spring, and the bolt still did not work smoothly...then I added a couple of drops of lube to the main spring/plunger tube and duh, the operation really smoothed up... ... regards
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:36 PM
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I donít think Iíve ever oiled a hammer spring on my semi auto 22 pistols . Iíd have never thought it would make that much difference . Glad you got her figured out , and thanks for posting the info on the follow up. Iím wondering now if a little oil on the hammer spring might help my Buckmark loosen up.

FWIW, that spring kit is still nice to have . My Ruger MarkIv wonít run anything under 1200 FPS unless I use the light spring . I have a preference for CCI SV at 1070 FPS . I can run those with the lighter VQ recoil spring .
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  #13  
Old 04-08-2021, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasnyder View Post
final follow up... I'm getting old (73) and forgot to lubricate the hammer spring during my initial check out of the pistol... I installed the VQ lite spring, and the bolt still did not work smoothly...then I added a couple of drops of lube to the main spring/plunger tube and duh, the operation really smoothed up... ... regards

Well, you got it to work and that's the important thing. Watch out for weather. I've found that when it's real cold my Mark IV will act up. I keep a can of RemOil in my shooting bag and a good spray will stop the problem.

Good Luck and Good Shooting.
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  #14  
Old 04-08-2021, 11:42 AM
lasnyder
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the first year I shot the Ft Benning 3 gun match (2005) the weather was in the mid 20's at 8AM... naturally I was first to shoot on a shotgun stage...at the time I was shooting an 1100, additionally we left the ammo in the car overnight and it had cold soaked... the first 3 shots were bolt action until the lube warmed up... after that I switched to a Benelli M1 and lubed the Ft Benning bound guns with INOX MX3 which is supposedly used by the Canadian armed forces... most of my temperature worries in Florida was the bullet lube running out of my .45 hand loads back in the day.... regards


edit... shot a practice SC match today... pistol ran very smoothly with junk ammo

Last edited by lasnyder; 04-09-2021 at 01:58 PM.
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