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  #16  
Old 08-28-2020, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GladesGuy View Post
Go easy. I would add 2-3 drops of BLO and go from there. This is not science, it is art. As George would tell you, test on a piece of scrap wood,
George would tell you to stop playing with that silly kid's stuff, and use Dyes, along with Lacquer.

I followed His advise, and won't go back to that time consuming nonsense.
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2020, 11:08 AM
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No, what you want is to add linseed oil that you can get at any hardware store. Mixing different oils, let alone Watco that is NOT an oil but a finish mixture of no name oils and hardner elements may result in a real mess.
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2020, 01:17 PM
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I read some of what George had to say about "wet-sanding"...and decided on water (distilled). His reasoning of water over all else, just made a lot of common sense to me. --- My stock started w/ whiskers standing. I misted the stock and sanded lightly w/400. After that I messaged the surry with bare hands rubbing in every direction. I'll do this again 1 or 2 more times.

On a bare stock, would it benefit using "Birchwood Casey's Sealer & Filler" before applications of Tru-Oil? On the Birchwood Casey Refinishing Guide it states "on bare wood to go w/Tru-Oil applications. Is the Sealer & Filler only to be used on ''all ready'' stained wood? All of you, much appreciated!
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  #19  
Old 08-28-2020, 08:49 PM
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Check the MSDS sheets.
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  #20  
Old 08-29-2020, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pecci View Post
I had read where ''Charcoal Lighter Fluid'' is in fact, mineral spirits. Is this true? Any other ideas are welcome.
Yes. For example, Kingsford Charcoal Starter Fluid is 100% hydrotreated light petroleum distillates, the same as mineral spirits, and they have the same CAS (Chemical Abstract Services) Registry Number that identifies the chemical product (64742-47-8). If you can get your hands on traditional charcoal starter it's definitely worth a test with the Tru-Oil.
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  #21  
Old 09-12-2020, 02:55 AM
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I just bought Odorless mineral spirits at my local hardware store in CA, they also have Naptha and paint thinner. Of the three paint thinner will slow the drying time the most.
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  #22  
Old 09-12-2020, 09:52 AM
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I personally don't like the look you get when using a filler first, did it on a couple rifles 30 years ago and have never used it since. I just put on a couple coats of true oil then sand down leaving the filled grain.
I don't know if you have ever used the spray on true oil but it really works great. If you want a satin finish Gun Savr is also awsome, Brownells has it.
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  #23  
Old 09-12-2020, 10:21 PM
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If you are looking for an oil hand rubbed finish, and want to use linseed oil, there is and old rule of applying it. Apply a coat of linseed oil with a rag, wait 30 minutes then wipe off with a clean rag, do this every day for a week, then once a week for a month, the once a month for a year and then once a year. REMEMBER to keep linseed oil soaked rags in an air tight container account of spontaneous combustion, that applies also for linseed oil based products.
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  #24  
Old 09-14-2020, 01:03 AM
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new fangled idea for hard to find items.....

It is called the internet. EVERYTHING legal is there. 'Going to Wallys World for tung oil? gimme a break
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  #25  
Old 09-15-2020, 09:40 PM
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It is called the internet. EVERYTHING legal is there. 'Going to Wallys World for tung oil? gimme a break
If referring to my original post ... The AQMD, has banned mineral spirits and other wood treatments and finishes from SoCal. Companies incl. Wal-Mart can not ship to a SoCal address or a store.

I guess they are in fear it killing everyone.
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  #26  
Old 10-14-2020, 05:50 PM
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I've used what Formby's called a "tongue oil finish" on many stocks. It usually worked well for what I was doing.

A few times, I was rubbing a very light coat on an already finished stock to give it a bit more shine and protection. Once or twice, I rubbed it into a stock that was clean but very dry, and it left a smooth, slightly shiny finish on it, bringing out the grain a bit.

I never tried it on a completely stripped or new, unfinished stock.

(Trying Tru Oil on a stripped stock now.... I will share results )
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  #27  
Old 11-22-2020, 02:51 AM
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Tung oil on a stripped model 60.
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  #28  
Old 11-22-2020, 06:05 AM
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If Tru-Oil is getting tacky you are putting too much on. I apply the initial coats with a 000 synthetic steel wool pad. The dust it raises mixes with the Tru-Oil and fills the pores. Another finish option I use is real Tung oil (make sure it is real, not that Homer Formby Tung Oil Finish from WalMart) mixed with citrus solvent. I get them both from The Real Milk Paint Company.

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/o...ung-chinawood/

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/citrus-solvent/
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  #29  
Old 11-22-2020, 06:54 AM
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Nice work.

Here's mine. I applied five coats of Tru Oil with light rub down with 000 steel wool in-between each coat. First few coats were sucked in by dry wood, dry to the touch in an hour or so and produced almost no shine. If I wanted satin finish I would have stopped there. Last few coats took three or four hours to dry, left a nice subtle shine. That's what I was after. I highly recommend the Tru Oil.

Be well.
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Last edited by Carbineguy; 11-22-2020 at 07:02 AM. Reason: Added finish info!
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  #30  
Old 11-23-2020, 10:01 AM
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Definitely use tung oil...vs tongue oil, which is mostly water based spit and used for a spit shine mixed with wax for shiny patent leather shoes.
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