What is the difference between the S101 and the S106 sights? I've got one or the other on a 44US-D I recently acquired.
Also, what is the proper technique for changing the position of the posts? I see the little half-moon tab protruding out of the front lip of the base, but how is it used to activate the spring within the base? Does one lift it, or press down on it, or press it in, or do something else altogether with it? What, exactly, does this tab do?
Finally, is there a way to lock the selected post into position firmly? I noticed mine is loose and will tilt 10 degrees or so to either side when the rifle is tilted--which does not give me much confidence that the point of aim will stay in place with the post flopping about.
Thanks in advance for your patience with these many questions and any wisdom you might be willing to share. My inclination is to swap out this S101/106 sight for a Lyman 17-A--unless I can figure out a way to keep my selected post solidly anchored.
The only difference between the two sights is that the 106 will have a dovetail adaptor. The spring could be broken if it has excessive movement or could use a cleaning to remove lint and dirt that is interfering with the spring. The springs are very fragile, so be careful if you take it apart.
Thanks, gentlemen--especially for pointing me to the Stickies. Lots of good info there.
Bone: So the spring serves only to hold the hood on? The hood is missing from mine, but in looking at the photos of the S106 with a hood, that's what I'm guessing. Or does the spring serve some other function to create pressure to keep the posts upright? I don't think I want to mess with trying to get inside it.
I'm leaning toward swapping out this S106 with a Lyman 17A globe, which looks to be a far more robust setup. Vic Havlin has them, with inserts, for a very good price, and I need the safety indicator pegs and some other odds and ends from him, so I may as well get it shipped together.
Again, many thanks for your patience and insight. I'm sure I'll have more Qs as I get into dialing her in. I'm all done with the tear-down and scrubbing, and she's all set to shoot.
One last Q: Any advice on ammo? My other Mossy of this vintage, a 42M(b), loves CCI Standard Velocity 40 gr.
Thanks for the tip on the safety indicator pegs. I have a near perfect 144 missing the red peg.
The S106 is fiddly, be sure you have it over a clean surface when you disassemble it, parts can get lost. The hood will hold things in place and protect those delicate posts. My inclination would be to keep the rifle original, parts have a way of wandering off when separated from the rifles, think of people 40 years from now trying to find original parts.
It is just a simple assembly of small parts that wont go spronging about when you take it apart, just do it orderly over a clean shop towel and you will end up with a useable, if not robust, front sight.
someone on here made a new spring. You can put a small piece of rubber under the spring to add pressure as well. The added rubber is the way most add pressure.
I have made numerous replacement springs for them out of old metal banding material that I picked up from work. The banding is not as strong as the originals, but still works well. The tools of choice for making them are these. I borrow the pic's from the web.
I disassembled the sight, cleaned the axis shaft and the posts of built-up gummy oil and dirt, and wiped off the spring and the interior of similar grime. The posts click into place much better now, but I went ahead and ordered up a Lyman 17A globe sight from Havlin's anyway. After I swap in the Lyman, I'll keep the S106 as a backup if I ever decide to go back to it.
There are slight manufacturing differences in the 101/106 bodies that is only apparent when you have each in hand. All the parts are interchangeable.
I have a Lyman 17ATC on my 44US property mated with a Lyman 90MJT rear.
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