I have a Browning BuckMark standard pistol. I would like to improve the trigger some for bullseye shooting. I have ordered a new trigger from Brownell's that has an overtravel stop screw. In addition I also ordered a "silhouette" sear spring with the thought that it is a lighter spring. I also ordered a sear spring adjusting screw. Will the silhouette sear spring "drop in"? and if so will it have any effect on reducing trigger pull. Can I install the sear spring adjusting screw in the frame of a standard BuckMark? Any help would be appreciated.
I can't tell you for sure if there's any difference in the strength of the two sear springs but I kinda doubt that there is. Without disassembling a couple pistols to tell for sure, I believe the difference may be the length of the leg on the spring.
The Silhouette (and a couple other models) have an adjustment screw that preloads the sear spring. There is a nominal amount of difference from one end of the adjustment limit to the other. The frames of these pistols have a tapped hole hidden by the rear end of the slide. It is angled so an allen wrench can access it without slide removal.
The adjustment screw has a dish on the end inside the gun that the leg of the sear spring rides in. There's also what appears to be a piece of drill rod that limits the distance the screw can be backed out.
Installing that screw would require some pretty precise drilling for the tapped hole........................chim
I'll let you guys know in a few days. I ordered a Sillouette sear spring for the heck of it, since it was only $2 and change. Unfortunately, I ordered an over-travel adjustable trigger as well, but they are back-ordered at Brownells. Hopefully they'll be in stock soon.
Unfortunately the Buckmark is not a pistol for which aftermarket drop-in (or factory) are available that will significantly enhance the trigger. Even if you can get the weight down, the pull tends not to feel as light as it is. Insert the services of a professional gunsmith.
Polishing parts and adjusting the OT screw can make a substantial difference. The main thing is to smooth and polish things - not change shapes or remove material................chim
Yeah, it would be nice if there was a drop in sear and hammer for the BM. Unfortunately, there isn't, so as Chim said, quite a bit can be done by polishing the hammer and sear engagement surfaces. Fortunately for me, I don't require a gunsmith. The sear spring for the Silhouette BM is just an experiment. I was already placing a Brownells order, and figured what the heck, I'll give it a try.
If you are getting a "spare" sear spring, you could try this. Bend the sear spring and put it in backwards. With this and not polishing the surfaces or anything I could get a 1.8lb trigger and worked for 7000 rounds without cleaning and firing with a suppressor. Just don't bend it too much because the sear is then too slow. More of a trial and error. Don't know how much lighter I could still get it by bending more but I'm happy the way it's now.
I wanted to try to just reverse the spring and did so, but how do you get the short end to tuck back into the rear of the frame like in the picture below?
I thought I reversed the spring, and it looks exactly like the photo on the left labeled Original, with the short end sticking up and on the "left" side of the pistol - just like the "Original" photo below. I assembled the Buck Mark (with the spring sticking up) and it still functions - did a function check - cycle slide, pull trigger (hammer falls) and hold trigger (do not release), cycle slide, release trigger and sear engages, pull trigger again and hammer falls.
So do you'all think my Buck Mark will work at the range?
I have a new Camper and the insides don't look exactly like some of the photos.
The long end of the spring always goes to the V-shaped slot in the sear and the short one towards the rear. On the left you can see how the factory spring is in place (I didnt bother to put the short end in to its place...). the red arrow points which is the long end of the spring. And on the right you can see from which side the long end comes in the lightened version.
It was so long ago that I bended the first one I had and when I ordered a replacement spring, it was without bends. I didn't bend the replacement at all since I wanted to see how it works without bending and it worked great. The bends are only to get the spring to have less pressure on it. But there is a limit how much you can lighten it. Basically just turning it over () is the trick that makes the biggest difference.
There are no stupid questions, better ask than be sorry later
Real quick update- I just tried it, and in conjuction with previous work I've done on the sear and hammer, I'm sitting at 40oz pull (2.5lbs) and it feels good. I'll shoot it tonite and give ya'll a range report. Great tip Heggis! Thanks!
OK- Functions perfectly, no hammer follow or doubles. Trigger is great and I checked again after shooting, still a hair over 2.5 lbs. Great tip Heggis!
Glad I could help The searspring is way too heavy if you ask me when it comes from the factory. Ofcourse they had in mind that people usually dont disassamble their guns and clean from inside every 10000 rounds. So that may be one reason.
Add a trigger with overtravel screw and it should be good to go Need to get one for myself but due to where I live the cost of ordering is way too much. So homesmithing job. Have a block ready to be dremeled but if I just could find the time...
I just tried the sear spring trick by Heggis. Now I can tell people that I have a sub 40 oz trigger on my Camper and a guy from Finland showed me how to do it. How do I say thanks in Finnish?
Hey, could one of you post a pic of an un-modified sear spring and one with the bends?
I'm trying to visualize what the difference is and what's being done.
In a word - WOW! Thank you to Heggis and Chim. As Chim suspected, there was absolutely no perceivable difference in the Browning "silhouette" sear spring and the original spring, and... I was not able to use the sear spring adjusting screw. But.... I did use the silhouette sear spring as Heggis recommended (great pics too). In addition, I followed Chim's suggestion to polish the sear and hammer contact surfaces ( I was a bit surprised when I noted how rough they actually were). I also installed a Browning trigger with an overtravel stop screw.
Now folks, the Buckmark has a very clean, crisp trigger. A little tuning of the modified sear spring yielded a scaled 2.0 lbs. The sear and trigger polishing smoothed up the trigger break nicely, and the overtravel stop screw made a huge difference.
This Buckmark trigger now rivals the trigger on my S&W 41. Can't wait to shoot it this weekend (weather permitting). I have also ordered a nice set of Herrett's Auto Target grips for it. Should be a much improved gun for conventional bullseye.
Good to hear that you are pleased with the mods that you've done. I'm wondering how you are able to get in there behind that overtravel stop screw so as to adjust it? Is there room, or does it require a special tool?
I like the solution Heggis came up with, and plan to give it a try the next time a Buck Mark follows me home.
Contributions like that are what make this a really useful and interesting place to visit. It's nice to be able to benefit from the input of other Browning enthusiasts.....................chim
Suurkiitokset, Heggis. Interesting idea. Going to try that out if I manage to get a reasonably priced sear spring somewhere. Speaking of which - since we're both from the same region of the world - would you know any European or preferably Scandinavian Browning retailers?
I can't take all the credit for this "trick" since there was fellow gunfreek when we first tried it to my buckmark. He had a leatherman with him... I didn't. And yes there was some beer in the picture too. Or was it whisky... my memory is blurry
But anyway I'm glad that I can help some others to get the best out of the little pistol we all so like
Thank you Heggis for a simple trick for lightening the trigger. I just tried it today while I had the grips off for the first time (Thank you chim for your tutorial). I still have to polish the sear and contact surfaces, but the trigger pull has already improved dramatically after just the spring mod.
Finally got myself to order few springs from the importer. The sear spring was 6e and mainspring 8e Oh well, small price though.
For me I had to order a second sear spring to replace the old one. It clearly was bend too many times to work properly I replaced it with a factory new spring (ofcourse turned it around) and my triggerweight went from 1.8lbs to 2.6lbs (800g->1,2kg) so not that big of a change in the end. For most people I think just turning the spring around is enough, but if you want to tweak.. And by replacing my superbent spring got zero malfunctions in the 1000 rounds I putted through the gun the otherday.
Apparently my mainspring was holding the weight in the 1.8lbs so couldn't go any lower by lightening the searspring. But I ordered a spare mainspring too so well see how low my baby goes
This sounds like a pretty simple mod that might help quite a bit. Thanks for the info.
Can someone tell me if the Silhouette model trigger will fit in the Camper model gun? I am thinking of getting a trigger with the over travel screw built in and am wondering if you can just swap them out easily.
I've gotten my Browning parts from Browning. It's been a while since I placed an order, but someone posted here that Browning wants to send parts to FFL holders only. I'd still give them a try, or mebbe Brownells.....................chim
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Rimfire Central Firearm Forum
6.4M posts
194.4K members
Since 2002
A family friendly forum community dedicated to rimfire firearm owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion of all manner of rimfire pistols, rifles, optics, ammo, gunsmithing, customization, reviews, hunting, accessories, classifieds, and more!