I’ve been reading the tips on this forum on shimming the barrel shank when you have a non-press fit barrel, using brass shims or shims made from beer cans, but was a little worried about barrel removal. Luckily members have also posted a couple of tricks for removing a tight barrel, so shimming seemed less of a concern. The only problem I could see was a product of my own laziness, in that the removal methods would require removing my scope, and in my case, also removing the extended scope rail.
Since I anticipate removing my barrel a few times over the coming weeks as I play around with modding my barrel chamber, I decided to try another method that would allow me to keep the scope and rail intact. I don’t think this is a new idea, but I’ve only seen a couple of other recent posts on the subject so I’m posting it in case it helps someone (no claim that it’s a novel idea, so my apologies if you've seen this before). This mod only works if your receiver has been drilled
for a cleaning rod hole (1/4” hole). Not sure if it will work with really tight barrels. With the shims, mine is pretty tight (needed a plastic mallet to seat it fully) but was surprisingly easy to remove with this tool.
Parts (~$4) and Tools:
1/4 in. x 12 mm Nut Brass Connecting Cap (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...-204281655-_-N
1/4 in. x 6 in. Zinc-Plated Hex Bolt (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...0686/204633312
2 - 1/4 in. Zinc-Plated Coarse Threaded Hex Nut (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...-204647886-_-N
Optional: A small stack (5 or 6) ½” washers. These may be needed to extend the reach of the press.
EDIT: I realized that using a socket as a spacer/extender works great. Easier to deal with than a stack of washers.
7/16” or 11mm socket and wrench
7/16” or 11mm open ended wrench
Start by disassembling the rifle and removing the bolt. Place the ¼” hex bolt through the cleaning hole. Start one of the two hex nuts and screw the bolt in. When the bolt is about halfway screwed in, place the second nut on the end and screw so about ¼” of thread is exposed. Add the brass connecting cap part, and use the second nut to lock it into place (but not too tight).
Here’s pic of the fully assembled barrel removal press:
Hold the first nut, which is against the rear of the receiver, from turning with the open ended wrench. It helps to use a narrow wrench, like the top one in the pic above, to get the necessary clearance. Even with a narrow wrench, you'll be holding the nut at an angle. Use the socket wrench to screw the bolt in and press the barrel out.
Notes: The 6” bolt with brass cap attached (bolt threaded ¼” into the cap) is only long enough to press the barrel about halfway out. This was enough in my case to be able to work the rest of the barrel out. If yours is tighter, go as far as you can with the bolt, then back it out and insert the stack of washers against the barrel shank, and then press the barrel the remainder of the way out.
Another option is to get a 6 ½” bolt or longer (I couldn't find one at Home Depot, so you might need to go to ACE or somewhere else), or use a long threaded rod which can be bent to create a handle which eliminates the need for the socket wrench. I would leave it long enough to clear my scope though:
1/4 in.-20 x 36 in. Zinc-Plated Threaded Rod (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bol...7320/100338099
Thanks for looking!