Light Strikes - Page 2 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Go Back   RimfireCentral.com Forums > >

Notices

Join Team RFC to remove these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 09-09-2009, 11:13 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
US Army Veteran

Join Date: 
Nov 2006
Posts: 
53
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)


Log in to see fewer ads
Ruger factory hammer. Tried the coke can blast shield, maybe some improvement-still misfires at least 1/3 of the time. Will call Ruger for a replacemnt firing pin tomorrow.

Will also try the factory upper for function, I just spent so much on the tactical solutions upper and it is so light that I really want to get it working.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 09-10-2009, 09:39 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
US Army Veteran

Join Date: 
Nov 2006
Posts: 
53
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Tried factory upper, still light striking-down to 10-20% now, but still happening!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 09-11-2009, 03:56 PM
blue68f100

Join Date: 
May 2009
Location: 
Plano, Tx
Posts: 
2,016
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
With the upper off, squeeze the trigger and see if the hammer moves freely. It shold move freely with out intervention. You will need to point the gun down and up for the hammer to free fall. If it does not, you have a hammer pin or bushing that is binding.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 09-13-2009, 11:50 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
US Army Veteran

Join Date: 
Nov 2006
Posts: 
53
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Question

Blue, it binds-a little, but probably enough to slow it down and prevent a strong enough hammer strike. When I replace the bushing with the factory original, I still have problems.

I noticed that if I keep the trigger all the way pulled it "flops" easier. Could I have reversed the sear spring? Which way is that supposed to face?
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 09-14-2009, 01:44 PM
blue68f100

Join Date: 
May 2009
Location: 
Plano, Tx
Posts: 
2,016
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
Unless you have the post travel adj so there is not enough travel to release the hammer with out binding. Normally when you squeeze the trigger you pull the trigger back farther than the point where the sear was release. You way want to back off the post travel and see if it clears. What I did on mine was paint the hammer sear contact and post travel area with a sharpy pen. This way I can see of it it's rubbing. I had to take/sand the hammer post travel down area down on mine, and polished it. This way if the sear is dragging just a little the friction is minimized.

Here is a link from Bullseye site showing the spring. http://www.guntalk-online.com/images/m3instep1.JPG

Here is then main detail link http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 09-14-2009, 02:42 PM
hakr100

Join Date: 
Apr 2009
Posts: 
105
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by L84GLF View Post
I'm not as patient as some of you. I put the VQ kit (minus the extractor) in my new Mk III and immediately began getting light strikes .

I replaced the VQ hammer with the factory hammer and the problem went away.

VQ asked for the hammer back for inspection. I sent it to them and they sent me a new one with no explanation of what might have been wrong with the old one.

I have not installed the new one. I'll wait until a problem occurs. My Mk III has currently gone over 1000 rounds with no problem of any sort.

L84GLF
I'm wondering about the VQ accurizing kit myself. I have a new Mark III on the way, and I was going to send the necessary lower off to VQ for its installation of its kit.

But...I have read several reports of problems with the VQ kit. I am not a gunsmith and do not want to become one. If there are problems with the VQ kit, how extensive are they?
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 09-15-2009, 08:56 AM
L84GLF's Avatar
L84GLF
US Army Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Apr 2007
Location: 
Keller, TX
Posts: 
887
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
hakr -

I'm not the expert. Many on this forum are wiser and more experienced than I.

That said, the only systemic problem I have read about with the VQ kit is the light strike due to the lighter VQ hammer. There are various reports of binding and tolerance problems, but these usually turn out to be associated with the particular pistol and are not design related.

My advice: Have the VQ trigger, sear and extractor installed in your new Mk III. The lighter hammer does give an improvement in lock time, but IMO, not enough benefit is gained to offset the potential light strike problem. My Mk III 678 with just the VQ trigger and sear installed has more accuracy potential than my shooting skills can utilize.

If you want to avoid the trip to VQ to have your VQ stuff installed, any competent gunsmith can do the job for you. I did mine with minimal problems, and I am not a gunsmith. However, if you want to comfort level of having VQ do it, they should turn it around for you pretty quickly.

Whatever you decide to do, you will enjoy the pistol. They are just plain fun to shoot.

L84GLF
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 09-15-2009, 06:09 PM
blue68f100

Join Date: 
May 2009
Location: 
Plano, Tx
Posts: 
2,016
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
Installing the parts are not hard. Check out Bullseye site on his how to guides. If you have any problems just post on his site or here, someone will help. You really need to know how to detail strip your gun so you can clean it properly when needed.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/service.html
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 09-19-2009, 06:26 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
US Army Veteran

Join Date: 
Nov 2006
Posts: 
53
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
OK, replaced firing pin (made it much worse-went back to the one I polished), sear spring-correct, factory trigger returned, dremel to polish multiple parts, cleaned again, less light strikes but still a few....about 10% when spotless clean, moves up to 20-30 when dirty. Tried multiple ammo Eley Sport, Federal, Golden Eagle, CCI, Rem, and Eley.

One important discovery, when I reinsert the misfired "duds" loaded one at a time from a bolt locked to the rear and I release it with the slide release slamming it forward, it almost always fires (other than junk Rem Gold Bullet ammo, which still fires about 95% which is what that crap fires from every gun), and even when dirty.

So what does that mean? Bolt spring or hammer (rear take down) spring? If that doesn't work I'm gonna either sell it (don't worry, I'll notify the buyer-don't want anymore crap karma) or replace the original upper (replaced that also to test-no help), the mag safety, and send it back to Ruger.

The take home from this unpleasant and continuing little experience, is to make one change at a time, not "since I got this darn thing torn down, let me replace every aftermarket part that I can think of!" The pistol functioned well before I made any mods, just shot like crap for a heavy barrel, tennis ball sized groups @25yds compared to my buddy's Ruger Hunter that shoots quarter sized groups at that range.

I'm really tired of all this crap, while I've learned a lot during this process, it has not been worth it. I might try to replace the springs and then call it quits! I'm gonna test fire the Tactical Solutions upper (which shoots tight when it fires) on my buddies 22/45, if that works I'm gonna buy one of those to make it as ultralight as possible and leave it bone stock-trigger, mag safety, or anything!
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 09-19-2009, 09:16 PM
L84GLF's Avatar
L84GLF
US Army Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Apr 2007
Location: 
Keller, TX
Posts: 
887
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Take some deep breaths and some time off. Put the pistol in lockup for 60 (?) days. Go do something else and then come back to this pistol.

Rugers will shoot and can be fixed. There are too many - mine included - that work properly to say they are not a good design. Mine took some TLC - not as much as yours - but the end result is worth it. I shoot my Mk III 678 against my S&W 41, and cannot show one is more accurate than the other.

Hang in there. That pistol will get there eventually.

L84GLF
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 09-19-2009, 10:04 PM
blue68f100

Join Date: 
May 2009
Location: 
Plano, Tx
Posts: 
2,016
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
Some need a little more TLC than others.

One other thought is if the cylinder bore is dirty or out of spec that is preventing the bullet from fully seating. If the bullet does not fully seat and then bolt tight light strikes will accour. If the hammer has free movement, the only thing that has not been addressed is the main spring. There was one gun where the dimple was worn down reducing the power of the main spring. When you latch the main bolt spring how much of the bolts sticks up before you depress and throw the latch. Mine is around 3/16"

I have the same problem on a Browning 22 Auto with some WW Expert22 ammo. Some will not fully chamber, but shoot fine in my MKIII. I have also had some ammo that was not full power and did not drive the bolt fully back to feed the next round.

Now I'm very surprised at the accuracy of the WW Bulk Xpert22 ammo. I have been able to shoot .5" groups at 20 yrds if I do my part.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 09-20-2009, 09:19 AM
OpsMgr's Avatar
OpsMgr
US Air Force Disabled American Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Dec 2005
Location: 
Southeast USA
Posts: 
9,015
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
How many rounds have been fired through this pistol?
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 09-20-2009, 08:01 PM
kingshouse41225
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jul 2009
Location: 
NE Ohio
Posts: 
1,038
TPC Rating: 
100% (3)
"One other thought is if the cylinder bore is dirty or out of spec that is preventing the bullet from fully seating."

Cannot be cylinder bore because it happens with two uppers. Isn't headspace a function of the bolt? Maybe the headspace is too great?

I know it doesn't matter much on a .22 but it does matter.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 10-07-2009, 10:43 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
US Army Veteran

Join Date: 
Nov 2006
Posts: 
53
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Smile

Replaced the mainspring-total PIA! Fixed, finally-thanks for all the help!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:43 AM.

Privacy Policy

DMCA Notice

Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2000-2018 RimfireCentral.com
x