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  #16  
Old 05-05-2019, 12:53 PM
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A while back I purchased a rifle that a previous owner had over oiled to the point that the tang area was saturated. After I stripped the finish, I used a heat gun and acetone. I did this several times a day for a few months till finished. I tried Whiting mixed with Acetone but no go.The Whiting didn't seem to absorb the oil. Heat and Acetone alone worked best. Then I sealed the area with thinned schellac to seal any unseen remaining oil below the surface, and refinished. Years later still looks great.
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Old 05-05-2019, 03:18 PM
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getting excessive oil out of a walnut stock?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyoming7220 View Post
I need/want to find an old thread regarding getting excessive oil out of a walnut stock. I read it some time ago and would like to find it. I don't know how to find it but some of you do that easily. Thank you in advance for your help.

Wyoming7220
To take it literally, you wish to remove excessive oil out of the wood.

See the thread "Removing oil in stock before refinishing" https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...d.php?t=121827
and "Removing oil from wood...Help!" https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...d.php?t=204170
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  #18  
Old 05-17-2019, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Plinkhead View Post
Try K2R Spot Remover. It pulls oil out and doesn't stain. I've used it mostly on castor oil soaked balsa model rc airplanes with great results. Its a dry cleaning fluid with powder that sprays on. Fast evaporation pulls the oil out and the powder grabs the oil. You spray, wait a minute or two and brush the powder off. It takes multiple applications to get rid of the oil but you end up with perfectly dry wood. No home brew methods come close to being as effective...and I've tried a bunch of them.
Will this remove the original finish on the stock?
I'd like to just remove the oils that have darkened the stock and not the original finish.
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  #19  
Old 05-17-2019, 03:09 PM
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With the stock removed from the gun, wrap in in a towel, place it in a black trash bag. Put it on the front dash in the hot sun. Even better is if you can find a all day sunny spot at work. Put it there in the am, and when you get off work that night, the oil should be soaked out. Might have to do that a couple of days. I've also used a hair dryer and keep on wiping the oil away (but the 2nd tip has been previously mentioned).
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  #20  
Old 06-06-2019, 06:34 PM
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I've used acetone. Built a small "tank", placed stock in and covered the stock with acetone. Cover as well as possible. Let it sit 24hrs, drained, removed visible oil the used a blow dryer on high heat and held it within a couple of inches of the wood. Cleaned oil of top.

Then placed in "tank" again added alcohol that I got from a buddy who worked with chemicals. Seem to remember it was a very % with virtually no H2O. Covered as tightly as possible soaked 24 hrs. Drained then let sit suspended in the garage for a couple of days.

The stock was from a Savage 99 and needed some judicious work on the broken/damaged tang. All in all it worked out very well. Used ProCustom oil from Brownells to finish.

As far as working with the chemicals:

NO SMOKING
NO OPEN FLAMES
NO SOURCE IGNITION OF ANY KIND
OUTDOORS
USE SOME FORM OF RESPIRATOR & SAFETY GLASSES

Hope it helps.
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  #21  
Old 06-07-2019, 04:58 PM
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Cannot really help with the OP question however,

I know several chaps who own old shotguns (H&H, Renato, AYA.........), they all store their firearms muzzle down in the safe. When I asked why, answer was - "to stop oil leaning from the action into the stock".

Just my tuppence worth.

Giz
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  #22  
Old 06-10-2019, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Gizmo60 View Post
Cannot really help with the OP question however,

I know several chaps who own old shotguns (H&H, Renato, AYA.........), they all store their firearms muzzle down in the safe. When I asked why, answer was - "to stop oil leaning from the action into the stock".

Just my tuppence worth.

Giz
Thats what I do after a liberal dose of oil as I don't like cleaning guns I haven't used for for a year or 2.
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