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  #1  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:20 PM
Paper
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.22 Classic Extractor Mod (pic heavy)



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Ok.. Nobody seemed to have photos of the procedure, so tonight I did the mod to my other Classic and took lots of pics..

Ok, here's what a chamber with no chip looks like.. Very faint polish to the one area where the extractor was hitting the barrel.




First, remove magazine and insure that the rifle is unloaded.. Then remove both screws that retain the action and trigger guard. The longer screw goes towards the butt, smaller towards the front grip.



When out..



Now, lift the barrel and action straight up from the stock.

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  #2  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:27 PM
Paper
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part 2

Now, you need to remove 4 small screws, two on each side, as follows..




And remove the same ones on the other side.. These are held with Loctite and may be difficult to remove. Use a proper fitting screw driver.



Lift the action cassette away from the receiver, and set aside.. You may want to clean this of powder residue while it's out..

Now, look at the bolt where the extractor's making contact. This is what we need to eliminate.



We'll need to remove the extractor, which is held in place with this one simple pin..




Push the pin out with a small screw driver.. It only goes one way, and it's not held in with anything.. It will drift out with very little pressure..

The pin partially removed.



The pin, out of the bolt..

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  #3  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:36 PM
Paper
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part 3

Now we need to take the extractor from the bolt.. Just lift it out of the slot.



Now, you need to remove metal from the tip of the extractor so that it won't make contact to the chamber when the bolt's forward.. Grind or file a bit off, put the extractor back in the bolt, and put the bolt back in the receiver to test for contact.. If it's still making contact, pull it back out (takes seconds) and take a bit more off.. Remember, you can't put metal back on when you take it off, so take your time..

When it's not making contact anymore..





Once everything is good, put your bolt back in after cleaning everything, and lubing..

Grab the cassette and before installing the 4 little screws, put some Loctite 242 or medium thread loc on them to keep them from backing out while in use.



Tighten them down, and reinstall the action back into the gun. Don't put loctite on the action screws.. Just remember which goes to the front and back, and tighten down..

Once back together, run a couple of mags through the gun to verify operation.

And enjoy that T/C .22 Classic for years to come!!!

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  #4  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:46 PM
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Paper, very well done and THANK YOU
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  #5  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:56 PM
Paper
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Originally Posted by Steve in TN View Post
Paper, very well done and THANK YOU
Not a problem..

It's easy to do, and put it this way.. It took less time to do the mod to the gun, than it did to make the post.. It's very simple to do, and I just hope that others don't get rid of an extremely well made .22 because it might chip in the future.. Just tear it down and fix it..

As I mentioned on another post here, T/C really screwed up with this part. It's just a stamped part and if they had shortened up the tip on the stamp, before production, the guns wouldn't have ever chipped in the first place..

All the extractor tip needs is (on the two that I've done) about .025" removed.. Less than a 1/32nd of an inch to get clearance and eliminate chipping..
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  #6  
Old 01-12-2012, 12:52 AM
JTod
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Thanks very much for taking the time to detail the process and post it up!
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2012, 10:29 AM
salbanal
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Well, I did this mod to my TC classic. The chamber was not chopped, just a shiny spot. Instructions were spot on and everything seemed to go well. I took off just enough to keep it from hitting.

What I found, which may not be correct, is that if you put the assembled bolt in the receiver and point the barrel down and let the bolt rest against the chamber, you can tell the extractor is hitting because you are able to push the bolt against the chamber just a hair more. When the extractor is not hitting, the bolt will rest flush against the chamber.

So, all seemed well and I ejected a few rounds in my basement, no problems. Until I went to the range. I only shot 50 Federals (maroon box, 510's I believe) but had three stovepipes.

Anyone else have similar experiences or suggestions?

Thanks.
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  #8  
Old 02-19-2012, 06:51 PM
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Is the process basically the same for a R55 Classic, or are there subtle differences that I should be aware?
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  #9  
Old 02-20-2012, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodchuck4950 View Post
Is the process basically the same for a R55 Classic, or are there subtle differences that I should be aware?
Same
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Old 02-25-2012, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paper View Post
Now, look at the bolt where the extractor's making contact. This is what we need to eliminate.

Started making the extractor mod to my R55 Classic. Noticed the milled notch in the barrel on the R55 is different from the original Classic. As shown in the picture above, the notch is curved and the extractor is curved to match on the Classic. On the R55 the notch is an angled/beveled surface ... because of this, much more material will need to be removed, not just the "few thou" recommended to achieve the required relief of the Original Classic.
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  #11  
Old 02-25-2012, 07:16 PM
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Woodchuck, on my R55, I did not remove much material; it didn't take much to achieve clearance. Certainly not 25-30 thou. Way less than that. The end of the extractor that points toward the muzzle didn't have to be touched at all, only that little portion facing the chamber. In fact, I'd have to say I just changed the angle a bit at the chamber cut out area and that created clearance on mine. Of course, manufacturing tolerances may differ from gun to gun.

I haven't tried mine yet to see if I've created any extraction problems; hopefully tomorrow.
I don't remember exactly what my Benchmark relief cut looked like compared to the R55 I have now.

Edit to add: I ran over 50 rounds, comprised of 4 different ammo styles (CCI SV, American Eagle 40 grain, 510, Wolf MT) through the R55 this morning without a hiccup. No fail to eject, no hangups at all. Fast, slow, real fast didn't matter. I'm very pleased with this solution. As always, your mileage may vary.

Last edited by LKEN; 02-26-2012 at 08:33 AM. Reason: test fired it
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2012, 10:25 AM
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Thanks Paper for the great write up. I emailed T/C about purchasing an extractor in case I screw up the original one and T/C sez that they are out of extractor's for the .22 Classic. Anywhere else to look to get an extractor?
Thank's, Rustedbolt
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2012, 08:14 PM
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They just went out of production last year, how can TC be out of parts? I thought there was some law that required mfgrs to keep parts on hand for X amount of years?
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  #14  
Old 02-01-2012, 06:45 PM
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Question extractor mod

Thanks for your excellent post I disassembled my newish R-55 after noticing the beginning of the dreaded chip. With mine I would have to remove a lot of metal, maybe .010" or at least .005" to insure the extractor does not contact the barrel! Plus I noticed it is only the sharp edge along the side that's contacting. I guess with a round chambered it must hit as well?
I suppose more than a few people have done this mod and in all cases there is still enough "hook" left to extract, correct?
Another approach would be to weld a bump on the inside of the extractor arm to limit it's travel.
I think a good gunsmith could unscrew the barrel and weld up the missing metal.
I had this very same problem on a custom Marlin 39a and my gunsmith fixed it by reducing the spring tension, which is a flat spring so I don't know if this is applicable with the coil spring on the TC.
I'm going to check my 'smith before I go further, all I did was polish mine and remove the sharp edges with a whetstone. I'll be back! Thanks.
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  #15  
Old 02-11-2012, 09:12 PM
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I bought a nearly new Benchmark Classic today, just the earliest sign of extractor rubbing was existent, when I put a little rem-oil on it you could no longer even see the shiney rub mark. Anyway, I took it all apart per your excellent instructions and stoned the extractor down so it no longer hits at all. Just went very slowly and put the extractor back in 5 times before I got it so it just clears. Cleaned it good, oiled it lightly and reassembled it. Just finished test shooting it off the back porch and it works perfectly. I think I got it in time and made the needed repairs and now have a very nice gun that should last for years. This is actually the 3rd Classic I have owned and I really like them. 2 have gone back to the factory and I never saw them again so I am happy to have one I can keep. Thank you for the excellent instructions and photos. HJDC
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