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  #1  
Old 07-27-2014, 12:00 PM
Turboshaft
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Weaver G4 Disassembly



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So I've been searching online and also on the forum search tool for instructions on disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly of the old Weaver G4 scopes. I've found at least one post where a fellow took his scope apart and shot photos of the pieces. I was hoping to find some instructive hand-holding on what to do and what not to do. I also checked the scope stickies and didn't find what I wanted. Can anyone suggest a thread or website to look at? Much appreciated...
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  #2  
Old 07-27-2014, 09:06 PM
ShootsAtSky
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First, make sure you have an hour or two undisturbed, you do not want to be interrupted and have to come back to it later.

Get something to sort the parts into, some like ice cube trays, I like a bunch of small zip locks.

Do not use any solvents like acetone, turpentine or mineral spirits on an old scope, if it has compound lens they were glued with balsam and it will dissolve. Depending on the year alcohol may be safe, but not always. I use a really mild glasses cleaner and try to clean only the face of the lens, not the sides.

The eyepiece just unscrews, then you need either a spanner wrench to remove the lock ring on the objective, or you may be able to use a small screw driver very carefully in the slot of the lock ring. If it sticks, order the spanner, don't try to use a hammer to drive the screwdriver, it will tear up the slot in the lock ring, probably bung up the treads and possibly scratch the lens.

Get the ends off and out of the way before you remove the adjuster assembly in the middle, things will get very loose inside once you do.

As you disassemble it, work on a big sheet of paper, legal size, back of a target, butcher paper, etc. Make lots of notes of each piece as it comes off of the tube. Place in the tube, any screws, lock rings, spacers, focus mask, etc. When you remove a lens or mask (the brass disk at 7 O'clock below, it is curved to one side), immediately note which side any curves go to, and if it is a compound (there is usually a fine line visible on the edge) be sure you know which side is which. Clean them each as you go, so you have minimal handling. If your hands get greasy or dirty clean them before you continue.

The brass and aluminum pieces can be cleaned with alcohol or acetone, but be sure it's dry before assembling, you don't want the fumes inside.

You might want to put a really light coat of silicone grease on the adjuster band contact points and on the lock rings. I use Plumbers Grease that can be found at any hardware store. Again, keep everything as clean and dry as possible, any oil, dust or grease near a lens will attract dust since these scopes are not sealed.

Here's some pics of a JC Higgens version of an early B4, not exactly the same as a G4, but very close. This one was really foggy, and had a problem with the cross hairs jumping around.



The cross hair problem was easy, the brass adjuster ring had slipped forward just a bit, which let the adjuster screw slip on the edge, causing the ring to jump in different directions as you turned the screw. Look at the green ring on the brass at the 2 O'clock position.

The foggy problem turned out badly, I found a broken lens in the adjuster section, probably caused by someone cranking on the adjuster trying to get the cross hairs to stay consistant.

You can see the bad lens (after cleaning) at the 8 O'clock position in this pic.



Hope this helps, they are really easy to work on, just go slow, take notes, keep it clean and it should turn out well.


Bob
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  #3  
Old 08-02-2014, 04:14 AM
Turboshaft
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Thanks Bob, It looks like you provided what I was looking for, much abliged.
Don
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  #4  
Old 10-31-2014, 08:50 PM
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Disassemble a Weaver B4

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShootsAtSky View Post

Bob
Excellent advise. Thanks Bob.

But my B4 doesn't have that one screw in your picture. I'm assuming the insides are pretty much the same as yours, but how do I get them out? The inner tube(s) appear to be quite firmly fixed. I've tried ..... gently ..... pressing from each end and also tried to rotate it by pressing (again gently) on the edges of the screw holes, but there is no movement. I don't see any other fasteners. Should that tube (adjuster assembly?) just slide out?

I'm a little leery of trying a heat gun or WD40.

Thanks.

Mike K
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  #5  
Old 10-31-2014, 09:33 PM
ShootsAtSky
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It probably had some water or cleaning solvent get inside between the steel body and the brass or aluminum inner tube and the corrosion has them locked together. You're on the right track pushing from each end, but use a flash light to make sure there isn't an alignment tab or dimple on one side.

You might try turning a dowel to size, or a find or make a washer that just fits and tap against that. You might also be able to run the adjuster base screws back in and get it to break loose with some tapping on them.

Just be sure you know where the lenses are before you push or tap.

Bob

Last edited by ShootsAtSky; 10-31-2014 at 09:36 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-01-2014, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShootsAtSky View Post
It probably had some water or cleaning solvent get inside between the steel body and the brass or aluminum inner tube and the corrosion has them locked together. You're on the right track pushing from each end, but use a flash light to make sure there isn't an alignment tab or dimple on one side.

You might try turning a dowel to size, or a find or make a washer that just fits and tap against that. You might also be able to run the adjuster base screws back in and get it to break loose with some tapping on them.

Just be sure you know where the lenses are before you push or tap.

Bob
Thanks. I saw another of your photobucket photos showing a 'L' shaped keyway on the inner tube. If mine has the same thing I may have been trying to push it the wrong way. Or it is seized and has to be pushed - with your dowel - just a smidgeon to break the corrosion before it can be turned out of the lock. If mine is like yours then it will only push toward the eyepiece as the post/pin/dimple that mates with the keyway will prevent it going the other way.

Thanks again Bob

Mike K
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2014, 10:06 PM
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Did it!

O.K.
I did it. Trimmed down a 3/4" dowel to fit IN the 3/4" tube and g e n t l y pressed the Aluminum tube out and found a small brass keeper ring threaded in one end. Carefully turned that out and was able to take out the insides of that tube.

The steel tube was seriously corroded inside with some corrosion on the larger aluminum tube and just plain grease and dirt on the rest of the parts.

I didn't take the ocular or objective lenses apart, and the three others in the alum tube all appear to be symetrical (convex both sides) but I put a tiny ink dot on the ocular side and made sure I kept that side oriented when I cleaned them, and put another dot on them to be sure which side was which when I reassembled the scope.

The reticle is definitely gone (well that was why I wanted to take it apart). I used a fine marker to put an "X" on the lens closest to the adjustment turrets, just to see if that was where the reticle should go. Apparently not. Does anyone know where the reticle goes? Must have been a hair or spider web one to start with. There is nowhere to attach a wire one.

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Old 11-02-2014, 07:09 AM
ShootsAtSky
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The reticle should have been on or very near the ring that the adjuster screws contact. In this design, only the reticle itself moves, the masks (flat brass washers with smallish holes) didn't move with it, so the reticle moved around in the field of view. Not like newer designs where the mask moves with the reticle carrier, so it always appears centered, at the expense of up to 30% of the possible field of view.

Bob

Last edited by ShootsAtSky; 11-02-2014 at 08:46 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2014, 08:46 PM
ShootsAtSky
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KimFella,

First, a belated welcome to RFC, been using my tablet and didn't see your post count on the right.

You can spend a lot of time and money trying to find really fine tungsten wire as many scope repair threads mention. But, for a G4 I'd recommend just cutting up a cheap old extension cord and salvaging a couple strands of the fine copper wire inside. You can try soldering it on, but I've had really good luck with thin super glue and a needle for a dropper. Lay the wire in place over the ring, use a little bit of weight (clay or putty) to hold it in place and tighten it just a bit, but keep it away from the ring so it doesn't wick the glue down. Then put a tiny drop of super glue on the wire at the top of the ring. Repeat for both wires. After it's fully set, use a stone or fine nail file to cut the wire on the outside of the ring and clean up any glue that got on the outside. Color the wire with a black sharpie or magic marker and see what it looks like.

If it's too thick, acetone/nail polish will dissolve the glue and you can try to find some finer wire.


Bob
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  #10  
Old 11-05-2014, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShootsAtSky View Post
The reticle should have been on or very near the ring that the adjuster screws contact. In this design, only the reticle itself moves, the masks (flat brass washers with smallish holes) didn't move with it, so the reticle moved around in the field of view. Not like newer designs where the mask moves with the reticle carrier, so it always appears centered, at the expense of up to 30% of the possible field of view.

Bob
"the ring that the adjuster screws contact" being the thing that looks like a ladle with a hole in it? Everything else in there looks like a lens or a "mask". If it is the "ladle" then that solves the alignment problem. I was dreading the thought of putting the crosshairs on a lens or mask and then trying to reassemble the scope so the crosshairs are aligned with the turrets.

I've already collected a crosshair kit from my hair brushes.
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  #11  
Old 11-06-2014, 08:19 AM
ShootsAtSky
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The ladle sounds like the most likely. Think about it from the adjuster view, whatever the cross hairs are on has to move when you turn the adjusters. After that, it's a question of which side of the ring the cross hairs go on to be in focus. If you can't get them in focus, move them to the other side.

BTW, don't expect the cross hairs to stay centered in the view, the B4 series doesn't maintain center, they move move in the view as you adjust.

Bob
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  #12  
Old 11-06-2014, 09:03 AM
KimFella

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShootsAtSky View Post
...After that, it's a question of which side of the ring the cross hairs go on to be in focus. If you can't get them in focus, move them to the other side.
Good to know. Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShootsAtSky View Post
BTW, don't expect the cross hairs to stay centered in the view, the B4 series doesn't maintain center, they move move in the view as you adjust.
Bob
I don't understand how this works. It sounds as if I can 'sight-in' my scope, regardless of where the rifle points? If my 1st shot is 1" low and left, I adjust 1" higher and to the right, but now my crosshairs are in the upper right quadrant of the scope view?
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  #13  
Old 11-06-2014, 11:25 AM
ShootsAtSky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KimFella View Post
IIt sounds as if I can 'sight-in' my scope, regardless of where the rifle points? If my 1st shot is 1" low and left, I adjust 1" higher and to the right, but now my crosshairs are in the upper right quadrant of the scope view?
Yes, though you probably won't see much difference in a 1 inch adjustment. But it does get noticeable by 4-6 inches, and if you try to adjust for long ranges with 12+ inches of drop, the reticle may be very near the top of the scopes view.

That actually happens for all scopes, you just don't see it on new scopes, because they attach the mask (the brass disk with the small hole) to the same carrier as the cross hairs. That way the cross hairs always appear in the center of the view, but at the expense of up to 30% of the possible field of view.

The B4 is an older, simpler design and they wanted to get all the light in that they could, so the mask doesn't cut down the field of view.

Bob
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Old 11-21-2014, 03:16 PM
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Well finally got around to doing it. I tried using hair I harvested from my hair brushes but it the Krazy glue wouldn't stick. Then I tried the copper wire strands in stranded lamp cord. Yeah. I'm going to have to take it apart again when I can source some trained spiders. The lamp cord strands look like the thick parts in the third pic in this post. I'll have to learn to set the left side of the bull on the vertical "post" and the bottom of the bull on the horizontal. Either that or go to gigantic bullseyes.
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  #15  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:58 PM
ShootsAtSky
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Do you fish? If you have some braided Spectra/FireWire line, you can cut a 2 inch piece and pick individual strands out, then color them with a Sharpie. They are really too fine for a B4, you might need to use four or five strands twisted together.

But, Nichrome wire is probably a better choice, this 48 gauge (.0016 inch) is probably about right for the B4, but his shipping is twice the price of the wire. Still only $3.34, so not too bad.

Hope you have a good magnifier and can hold your breath for long periods.

Bob
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