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Old 10-23-2020, 08:10 PM
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Lightbulb Taurus 94 Trouble Shooting



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Hello Rimfire enthusiasts! 4th post here. I've posted prior regarding my '69 Ruger Standard...

So I have this .22 9-shot Taurus 94 Matte Stainless 4". I bought it used off of Backpage for $250 almost 4 years ago back in '16. It is my first revolver, and I got it because I wanted a revolver but didn't want to add another caliber (I shoot 9mm CZ75b) and I love plinking with .22's. This fit the bill since it was cheap, stainless, and high-cap. My dream .22 revolver would be the H&R Sportsman Top-Break...

Anyways. I took it home, opened the sideplate, and cleaned out a bunch of metal shavings and grime. Swapped in a Wolff Trigger Spring. Lubed it, reassembled. Went to shoot it. 2 cylinders in, and the bind begins. I thought I would break or bend something in DA. Had to rotate the cylinder by hand. Rip-off. Stuffed it back in it's case and hid it away for a while.
Two years later a girlfriend wanted to learn about guns. I brought em all out, even the Taurus 94. While she was shooting it, the yoke screw unspun itself and buried in the Sonoran Sand. Gone. The 94 went back in it's case for 2 more years.
This month of October, because of Covid-19, boredom, lack of funds and ammo, I became determined to make this 94 work, or toss it. I refuse to send it in to Taurus. I would rather work on it myself then have them sit on it for 10 months.
The yoke screw I replaced by cross-referencing other makes and models that use some of the same parts. MidwayUSA has a Smith and Wesson yoke screw (#537604 - pic included) that fits great. Added some blue-loctite. My crane no longer slips out of the yoke!

There were fitment issues. The crane would strike the bottom of the frame when it swung up into battery. I took a flat hand rasp and removed some material on the crane just in front of the cylinder bushing (pic included). It now closes smoothly.
The biggest problem was the case drag on the recoil shield. It was as apparent as the galling of the center pin on the left-side recoil shield as it swings into the cylinder release hole. A shiny ring of metal-on-metal wearing as the case rims rubbed on the recoil shield. The binding got worse the hotter the gun got.
I placed a razor blade across the recoil shield, and found that it wasn't milled flat. it had raised edges exactly where the rounds dragged (pic included is after some filing).
I covered the recoil shield with black Sharpie, and erased it slowly with a flat hand rasp. One hand on the barrel, gun handle on coffee table. Repeated that process a few times until satisfied (pic included)
I just got back today after shooting a box of 50 CCI Velocitors as quickly as possible to get it hot. Not a single problem!! The DA pull is easing up, and I'm almost as accurate in DA as I am in SA.
This firearm has been a true PITA, but in the end, I now have a dependable, high-cap, knock-around plinking revolver, gotten for cheap, that has taught me a LOT in a short time.
Sorry for the long-winded rambling novel, but I just wanted to let people know that the lemons can sometimes be made good!
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Old 10-24-2020, 09:45 AM
jcundiff
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Taurus 94 reply

I applaud your préservance in “it will work.” Ive never had such a bad Taurus problem the Quality Control should have flagged and that gun fixed before it left the floor of the factory. I don’t blame you for doing the necessary work to get it running properly. Thanks very much for the photos, easier to see what you had to do. A problem I see is maybe your hands are small, in your photos. Just kidding, but that is a great aid in pointing out things. Again, great job!
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:09 AM
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Thanks for the kind words, jcundiff.
I need to stop at Harbor Freight and get a set of needle files to clean up that crane grind.
Now that this revolver works, it may have earned its own holster...
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Old 10-25-2020, 07:58 PM
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Sorry for your troubles, Cap, but glad you got it sorted out.

I have a blued 4" version and had trouble at first with light primer hits, especially with DA, and like you I jury-rigged my own solution. I added a spacer under the main spring and now it works great. Took awhile to get used to the heavy DA trigger pull but now I'm almost as accurate with DA as I am SA. It's now one of my favorites to shoot.
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Old 10-27-2020, 12:29 PM
VASCAR2
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My Taurus model 94 had the cylinder machined and it was not square and would get light strikes on three chambers. I sent the revolver to Taurus. They replaced the cylinder but made no mention in work performed receipt. Tech said spring had been replaced but I bought it used and it felt like factory springs. I think the tech was trying CYA for Taurus.


No more light strikes and shoots accurately for what it is. I like the revolver and previously bought a blued model 94 for my Son. The cylinder was dragging on the forcing cone. I bought the blued model 94 in 2007.

I adjusted the rear sight but failed to tighten the off side screw or the sight screw came loose and the rear sight blade came loose and was lost. I used a Ruger Mark I/II as a replacement. Taurus only sell complete rear sight assemblies which are not cheap.
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Old 11-15-2020, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VASCAR2 View Post
...The cylinder was dragging on the forcing cone...

I adjusted the rear sight but failed to tighten the off side screw or the sight screw came loose and the rear sight blade came loose and was lost...
What a nightmare! I noticed my rear sight was loose when my hand would come across it. For some reason, I thought that was typical Taurus flimsiness, until I realized how easy it was to tighten it up. Solid now. May add blue loctite....

I found a guy online with .22lr ammo, bought 300 rounds. Shot half of em today. Got a little dirty after 100, and began binding again 😥.
I held it up to the sunlight and found that the cylinder face was scraping the forcing cone, but only on the same 3 consecutive cylinders. At first I thought the star was improperly machined, or the "hand" was too long, pushing the cylinder forward. I was about to buy a dremel.
I made sure the ejector rod stayed tight, as it was loosening. Then I gave the cylinder a few spins. I had always noticed that when I spun the cylinder, there was obvious play in the assembly. I could see the ejector rod wobble back-n-forth as it spun, and the cylinder didnt spin concentric either, which I found is a bad thing. My ejector rod was bent, most likely from the numerous times the crane slid out and dropped onto the floor after losing that yoke screw. Ugh.
So i stuck the ejector rod into a drill and spun it. Touched the Sharpie to it to mark the high side, and gave it a few taps with my mallet. Re-installed with blue loctite.
Looks a lot straighter, a LOT less wobble, and those 3 chambers are no longer scraping the cone. Will hafta go back out and probably dump the other 150 rounds to see if that worked.
The saga continues, and I can't get that picture to flip around...
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Last edited by CaptKillingfield; 11-15-2020 at 06:24 PM.
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