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  #1  
Old 12-28-2009, 01:49 PM
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Arrow Remi 597 "Boner-stock" Project Log



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Modifying Remington 597

Introduction

Payed $150.00 over Thanksgiving at Dick's. It's bone-stock and I intend to keep it that way; wanted something cheap and since remi seems to have fixed the early models... I took this over the 10/22. Just something to shoot cans with. I'm all for making mods with some parts and elbow grease, but third party alternatives are not really appealing to me. If I was going to go that route I would have taken the 10/22.

I've put about 300 rounds through it and haven't had a problem yet, though the groups at 50 yds. are sloppier than a big city whore.

Painted the stock black last week but it's starting to scratch, looking pretty rough.

I like pictures way more than text, so I'll probably be using more of those.

Been reading through the forums here for a couple of days and from the looks of it there are some fairly involved folks! So I thought I would join... When I post updates on the project I'll try to also give information to walkthrough the process of completion, just incase you find it interesting and want to do the same thing! Hopefully by the time it's done it won't really look like the same gun, or at least handle and look a bit better.

Products used, and pricing:

...
...
...

Last edited by BellicusBrian; 12-29-2009 at 01:31 PM. Reason: Keep most recent information at the top, where it is easier to see.
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:55 PM
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Krud Kutter

Krud Kutter

I've heard MEK and Acetone can eat through plastic, so I opted for another approach found on Sniper's Hide Krud Kutter! Some people swear by this stuff. After a couple of coats and some steel pads it started to take of the three layers of Krylon (camo/flat) black paint. Though the layers of tan/white test paint under it wouldn't come off.

Worked through with 60 Grit paper, figured I could fix it up with some higher grit after I got the majority off... wrong... now there are some deep scratches... oops.... but I'm sure they can be worked out.

Anyone have some additional suggestions for paint remover, without damaging the plastic stock? I would definitely be open to use them the second time around...


Last edited by BellicusBrian; 12-28-2009 at 02:25 PM. Reason: vB code is killing me hahaha
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:28 PM
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Bolt

Bolt

Making that bolt shiny... Looks like the factory finish is just real uneven, I'm leaning towards not working the bubble look of the bolt out. Hopefully by the time I'm done it will be looking like glass; working on the guide rods also. Toxic did I nice write up on these forums, you can read his process:

Toxic: "How to Polish your 597 Bolt"
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=162387




Last edited by BellicusBrian; 12-28-2009 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Toxicsports link added.
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Old 12-29-2009, 09:29 AM
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Painting

I was really surprised how simple the take down was. This is only my second fire arm, my first being a handgun. But remi has made everything fairly intuitive and since I'm satisfied with the black action/barrel it's a bit easier to do the masking/painting.

I like the black at the end of the stock, along with the black logo next to where the magazine release sits (underneath the grip). However, I was sort of at a loss for how to mask that area, mostly because of the unordinary shape. Thankfully I found some modeling clay and that seems to do a great job of keeping the paint out. Also used the typical plain blue painters tape for the back of the stock.

Clay



Finished Masking



Note: Flickr is pretty particular about their photo uploading especially on external websites. Hopefully the pictures are displaying properly, it seems the TOS require a link back to the original picture.

Last edited by BellicusBrian; 12-29-2009 at 09:32 AM. Reason: title
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Old 12-29-2009, 11:25 AM
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Continued

I've been working on the bolt for awhile now, and nothing seems to really smooth it out... From the looks of things the top of the bolt doesn't really make contact with anything inside of the gun, so couldn't you just sand/polish out the uneven areas? Maybe someone with a tad more experience could shed some light on this, the bolt only rides on the rails correct?

Continued

I'm really becoming a fan of Krylon, especially for projects done on the cheap. I used the white Krylon as a base (primer of sorts) since it actually "bonds to the plastic". Not sure exactly what that means, but it was nearly impossible to strip/sand off the first time around. Also the white base seemed to make the blue stand out a little more, I've always been told to paint the lightest color first and then build on it, so that's what I did here.



The clear-coat hasn't really been put to any test yet. I've seen different opinions around other forums, but I went for the easy application gloss coat. You can kinda-sorta see the shimmer, but it's really starting to look vibrant in person.

Process:
  1. Sanded 400 grit to get old paint off and smooth out stock, finished with 2000 grit to get out any scratches.
  2. Painted on white in about 4 light coats
  3. Sanded in between to get a smoother finish and remove the potential "orange peel" that I have been hearing about.
  4. Started Blue paint, 5 light coats. Sanding in between.
  5. Finishing up right now with the clear-coat, probably anywhere from 3-4 coats with sanding in between. It takes about an hour to dry to the touch, so things are moving along slowly.

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Old 12-29-2009, 11:29 AM
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Polishing Hammer

Brasso + MicroFiber Towel + 2000 Grit Paper



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Old 12-30-2009, 04:26 PM
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nice work, but now your stock finish is fragile and will be covered with scratches and dings everytime you touch it. also gun cleaner will take that paint right off.
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by >X< View Post
nice work, but now your stock finish is fragile and will be covered with scratches and dings everytime you touch it. also gun cleaner will take that paint right off.
Thanks!

But yikes, I sure hope not. I wasn't much impressed with the stock in its original condition. The OD green just looked cheap. Painting it had a dual purpose, one was color while the other was to cover up the "lines" in the stock.

So far the clear coat seems like it's holding up well. 24 hours in (the time it states on the can to be completely dry) I took it out shooting with a friend, and also went again later this evening. No visible scratches... I was recommended to this clear-coat as it is commonly used for outdoor furniture etc, ergo somewhat more durable.

Edit: as for gun cleaner... my first step other than magazine release/slide lock is to remove the stock from everything else. Even if gun cleaner could damage the paint I don't see it ever getting a chance to.

Last edited by BellicusBrian; 12-30-2009 at 06:12 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:29 PM
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Continued...

Two questions...

I seem to have messed up one of the springs, either because it slid further down into the bolt than it was supposed to or because of user error. The gun still cycles fine but the end portion of the spring is definitely effed up. Where can I buy a new one?

Also, the bolt looks pretty rough. I've sanded, polished, etc, etc, etc. And nothing is working. Scratches are visible and the spots look pretty bad... Could I have the bolt jeweled cheaply? Possible do it myself? Where could I find one of the rubber pieces that fits properly into a drill?

With that being said I have more pictures.















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Old 12-30-2009, 06:58 PM
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you can get a new spring from brownells/midwayusa. as to your bolt, can't help ya there. little experience. looks good though
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:02 PM
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Jewelling?

Get a pack of No 2 pencils. Apply rouge or burnishing compound to the eraser. Chuck the pencil into you drill and go to it.

You'll wear through the erasers, but it works.

Honestly, though, jeweling is almost entirely ornamental in this application. A good rubbing with various grits will polish the bolt to a satisfactory sheen. It might take time, but......
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:24 PM
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If the spring is only f''d up for 1/4" or so nip it off and reverse it. You might try a hardware store for another, or with Midway as Remman advised.
With scratches you will probably have to go to a rougher grit. What happens is you want to remove scratches with more, less deep scratches and progress down to where the scratches become invisible to the naked eye. During this process the metal goes from scratches to a dull sheen and then as high of a sheen or high gloss as you care to go and the particular metal allows.
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Old 12-31-2009, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al the Infidel View Post
If the spring is only f''d up for 1/4" or so nip it off and reverse it. You might try a hardware store for another, or with Midway as Remman advised.
With scratches you will probably have to go to a rougher grit. What happens is you want to remove scratches with more, less deep scratches and progress down to where the scratches become invisible to the naked eye. During this process the metal goes from scratches to a dull sheen and then as high of a sheen or high gloss as you care to go and the particular metal allows.
So what grit would you recommend? I've seen your rig in the "post your gun" thread, and your bolt looks like a mirror.

VT: that's a great idea man, I would have never thought of using pencils... have you tried it with these before or are you just guessing
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Old 12-31-2009, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BellicusBrian View Post
So what grit would you recommend? I've seen your rig in the "post your gun" thread, and your bolt looks like a mirror.

VT: that's a great idea man, I would have never thought of using pencils... have you tried it with these before or are you just guessing
I have some cheap butter-stick looking polishes(diff colored sticks) that come in a 4 pack and will remove rust, heavy grit, down to gold polishing, light grit, from a hardware store. Actually my bolt came pretty nice and I lightly hit it with the fine stuff, actual grit is unknown on all.
Bolt jeweling if not done right looks kinda cheesy to me. Gizzy here on RFC won't do round bolts like ours cause they are harder to "jig up", even and perfectly repeated pattern. Here's what you might be interested in.~ https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...eweling+my+way
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:01 PM
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Brian,
I have seen the pencil eraser trick before with good results. A friend used it to jewel a dash face on a mustang and he used a fine valve grinding compound (that has carbide granules suspended in grease)
Looked pretty sweet when it was done.
Not sure how many pencils he went thru though.
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