DiY kydex cheek riser project. - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #1  
Old 08-31-2017, 09:19 AM
DeoreDX
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DiY kydex cheek riser project.



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Started a new project last night. Well it's part of project where I'm taking a Ruger Charger I don't use and I'm re-stocking it and putting a 16" threaded bull barrel on it and scoping it. I picked up a B stock factory laminate target stock and I know the comb on it will be too low for a good cheek weld so I decided to make my own Kydex cheek riser. I know you can but those kits for about $30-40 but I didn't want to use the big knob hardware and I didn't want/need the adjustability. Once I set the height and position I'll never change it so I decided to make my own. I've never tried to form Kydex before so this will be a learning experience for me. I figured forming a simple U shape would be pretty easy to do.

I started by drawing up some patterns and using my wife's Silhouette to cut them out on card stock to test them on my 10/22 carbine. This was v4 and the shape/size I decided to go with. I cut some registration marks on my my pattern to not the center line of the pattern. I figured I would need that when it comes time to forming.



Not the final position but you get the drift.



I cut my pattern out on vinyl and placed it on my Kydex. That's my stencil for rough and final cutting and shaping of my piece.



Used my wife's rotary cutter to make a starter straight score lines and used a utility knife to make the score lines deeper. Scored and snapped to work out the rough shape. That rotary cutter was the tits for making straight score lines. Much better than what I would have normally done with a knife and a straight edge. Have about 45 minutes invested so far. Tonight I will be roughly rounding the corners on a drum sander that mounts in my drill press and work it to final shape by hand with file and sandpaper.



Next will be the forming. Not sure if I want to try to use my oven or toaster oven. I've read it makes a smell so not sure if I want to do thta in something we cook food in. Or invent in a heat gun. I also need to find a pipe or round dowel that's the right diameter to form it around. I don't seem to have anything that's the right size. If anyone has ever worked with Kydex pointers would be appreciated.

I also need to decide on what fasteners I want to use to hold it to the stock. Simple countersunk wood screws or something a little more elaborate like a steel binding post with a nice flat head. Wood screw would be stronger but the binding post I think will look cleaner on a finished product.

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Old 08-31-2017, 04:10 PM
tdshepard

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If you live near a Harbor Freight the $14 heat gun they sell is one of the best deals I have ever purchased there. It just won't die and compares with the expensive Milwaukee heat guns we use at work.
I am sure there are YouTube tutorials on how to bend Kydex........
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Old 08-31-2017, 07:25 PM
Hacker

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Boil some water and put it in it for a few minutes. It will become very flexible.
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Old 09-02-2017, 07:13 AM
GH41

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"I also need to find a pipe or round dowel that's the right diameter to form it around. I don't seem to have anything that's the right size. If anyone has ever worked with Kydex pointers would be appreciated"

Kydex is best molded. When heated it doesn't exactly hang like a wet rag and it doesn't stay pliable very long. It has to be held in the shape you want until it cools. If I would dress a piece of lumber to the inside thickness you need and route or sand a bullnose on one edge. Blocks clamped on either side after heating to keep the flats flat. I wouldn't cut it to the final shape until after it cooled. It will be all but impossible to keep both legs of your saddle the same height if you pre cut it. The most difficult thing about working Kydex being able to get your molds on fast enough. Good news is you can heat again and again until you get it right. I would use a heat gun.
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Old 09-03-2017, 04:56 PM
GH41

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Here is one I did on my field rifle. I didn't need much height compared to what you propose but the process is the same. I didn't need an ambidextrous comb and didn't want to use fasteners. It is bonded to the stock with black RTV.

(This Image is Too Large to Be Displayed Within the Post. Click Link to View) (3411 kB)

https://i.imgur.com/FCq17IN.jpg

Last edited by GH41; 09-03-2017 at 05:04 PM. Reason: fixin' the pic
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Old 09-06-2017, 05:48 PM
DeoreDX
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Wouldn't mind finding some cooler looking hardware but the riser is done.

Used my stock as the mold and a harbor freight heat gun. After I got the shape down I used a table top as a sort of straight edge to get the legs of the rest the same length. Molding was pretty easy.

Made some changes on the way. Got my new scope in yesterday so I could now get the height set. I just used some clamps to hold it on to get the height set. Once I had the riser in place I noticed the edge of was touching my palm so I made some modifications and scalloped away some palm clearance. I was going to run some nice looking 1/4" hardware through the stock to hold it on but I took the easy way out and just screwed it in place. Not 100% happy with the way the hardware looks as I hate Philips heads but it's functional for now. I wuold like to find some truss heads that take an allen key or torx but no one locally had anything in 3/4". Rest is very solid and works great from standing, sitting and prone.



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