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"Rhaegal" my custom Volquartsen / Mark IV Standard

4K views 37 replies 10 participants last post by  Theo98 
#1 · (Edited)
Finally got her back from paint. Nothing new here, other than the cerakote paint scheme (Dragon Scale camo... which is why I've named her "Rhaegal"). The colors I went with were burnt bronze, black, and shimmer gold.

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that it was AzShooter's terrific custom Mark IV 22/45 that motivated me to put this pistol together.







Before I shipped her off for paint, I made a few slight modifications to her frame; basically I dehorned the magwell and rounded the corners /edges of the trigger guard.





 
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#7 ·
Trying out the grips that I originally purchased for this pistol setup. I find that these Hogue Piranha textured grips feel better in my hand over the smooth grips.... alas they're not as purty. I'll likely be using these the majority of the time when enjoying the pistol at the range.



 
#8 ·
Took her to the range this morning for the first time, and put about 400 rounds through her (CCI Blazer). Not a single hiccup or jam. That's quite unexpected; I really figured there would be a need to tinker with the magazines' feed lips. So, best to leave all that alone at this point.

I did experience about a dozen times when the trigger didn't fully reset... clearly I need to back that Volquartsen trigger set screw out a quarter to half a turn. :eek:

Shooting from a bag, her accuracy was quite exceptional (IMO). Wish I had a steadier grip using the red dot when shooting unsupported.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Volquartsen bolt is binding....


I encountered a major problem today, hopefully one of you will have an idea or two as to what the issue is?

Took her to the range today for only the second time, and fired approximately 350+ rounds through her without experiencing any issues whatsoever (this time the trigger always rest... which is a little perplexing since I did not swap-out its reset spring.... perhaps all its parts have settled in)..... until the very end of the shooting session, when the bolt binded. Very frustrating!

Specifically: A round fired, but the bolt did not cycle, and the bolt would not slide to the rear, no matter how hard I tugged on its handle. Using as much force as I could muster, the bolt would only retract a little more than 1/2" rearward; I could see the shell casing in there, but couldn't get to it at the firing range (for all I knew at the time, it was a live round).

When I got back to my garage work bench, I placed the pistol in my bench vise, worked the bolt rearward to a little over half an inch, and grasped the shell casing with a pair of needle nose pliers. It wasn't until I crushed the shell and yanked it out that I discovered the round had fired; the casing was empty.

I reoriented the pistol in my vise, and then took a cleaning rod and inserted into the muzzle.... then took a small sledge hammer and tapped the bolt rearward until it locked back (I had an empty magazine inserted to catch the bolt).





I disassembled the pistol and thoroughly cleaned it, then reassembled it. Cocked the pistol and placed a blank shell in the chamber, and pulled the trigger; click. But again, when pulling back on the bolt handle the bolt would only move rearward about half and inch. So out came the cleaning rod and mini sledge. I repeated the entire procedure three times and always same outcome. So, I decided to fully disassembly the frame; removed the safety and dumped the hammer assembly, etc..... and all parts appear to be fine. For the life of me, I don't see what could be causing this binding issue.

Does anyone have an idea on what could be causing this issue??? I'm all ears.
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#21 ·
This could have ZERO bearing on your situation, or could fall into that narrow percentage.

I had a MKIII 22/45 that I built in January 2018. It had light strike issues from the outset that were obviously due to the bolt not coming back into full battery. The inside of my Pac-Lite had rub marks from the fork in the guide rod spring housing, as well as the bolt rubbing the upper inside. It took a year to figure it out, but early this year I finally did. It couldn't be anything other than upward pressure on the bolt. In the end, I found out, that I had a bad VQ hammer in it. The strut on my VQ hammer had a catch in it, that at random times would not allow that strut to swing freely. VQ replaced the hammer and I never had that issue again. I took that piece out, and I could work the hammer strut with my fingers and eventually would find the catch that would not allow it to swing all the way back. My issues were random and nearly impossible to diagnose up until that point. But thats what it was. The hammer would not rotate fully to the downward position. It would catch and allow just enough for the hammer to move over it, scarring up the inside of the receiver, and slowing its forward movement to where it was slightly out of battery and would light strike.

Seriously, a full year before I figured that one out. That Pac-Lite MKIII runs good now, but its first year was a sheer b@stard of a time. Only way I figured it out was I had the hammer out of the pistol and was working the strut with my hands. Multiple questions to multiple experts, two trips to TacSol yielded nothing. I just got lucky and figured it out. Good luck on your endeavors.
 
#23 ·
@ Flash_80: Once I was able to separate the pistol's upper from its frame and perform a thorough cleaning (before going to the extent of removing the safety lever and dumping the pistol's innards), I noticed that the hammer wasn't behaving normally. In fact, I couldn't get the hammer to cock manually (using my thumb) all the way backwards/down without monkeying and moving the mainspring housing assembly and latch; the back of the hammer kept pressing up against the top forward edge of the mainspring housing which appeared to be blocking/preventing the hammer from locking down in the "cocked" position.

I also noticed that when the hammer was all the way forward in the fired position, the hammer strut just dangled and swung freely, and wasn't seated on top of the hammer spring plunger. Which made me believe that perhaps the bottom portion of the strut had broken away or perhaps the strut had become bent or somehow damaged.

But when I dumped the pistol's innards and took a hard look at the hammer, the strut, and all the fire mechanism component parts I could not visually detect anything that looked out of the ordinary. The hammer strut swung very freely and it appeared to me to be pristine.

Something within the frame is out of whack. I'm now thinking that perhaps the mainspring housing somehow got out of spec.... yet as thick as that part is, I think such is unlikely.
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#25 ·
Once I was able to separate the pistol's upper from its frame and perform a thorough cleaning (before going to the extent of removing the safety lever and dumping the pistol's innards), I noticed that the hammer wasn't behaving normally. In fact, I couldn't get the hammer to cock manually (using my thumb) all the way backwards/down without monkeying and moving the mainspring housing assembly and latch; the back of the hammer kept pressing up against the top forward edge of the mainspring housing which appeared to be blocking/preventing the hammer from locking down in the "cocked" position.

I also noticed that when the hammer was all the way forward in the fired position, the hammer strut just dangled and swung freely, and wasn't seated on top of the hammer spring plunger. Which made me believe that perhaps the bottom portion of the strut had broken away or perhaps the strut had become bent or somehow damaged.

But when I dumped the pistol's innards and took a hard look at the hammer, the strut, and all the fire mechanism component parts I could not visually detect anything that looked out of the ordinary. The hammer strut swung very freely and it appeared to me to be pristine.

Something within the frame is out of whack. I'm now thinking that perhaps the mainspring housing somehow got out of spec.... yet as thick as that part is, I think such is unlikely.
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Gary,

With the OEM Ruger MkIV hammers and assemblies, when you have the upper removed with an un-cocked hammer, the hammer can swing too far forward and the strut will dangle loosely, sometimes hanging up on the main spring housing instead of sitting in the MS cup as when in a "normal" vertical position (see pics). However, I've never had any hammer strut issues with the upper attached, as the receiver holds the fired hammer in this proper placement.

As far as the VQ upper+VQ bolt assembly+VQ hammer strut relationships (what you have), IMO, consult with VQ TS...they may want to get your MkIV in for evaluation!?!

Ted
 

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#26 · (Edited)
@ Theo98 - Thank you for you insight and comments. They are helpful to me. :t
Yes, I realize that if all else fails; if I am unable to figure this situation and correct it, that I'll have to ship the pistol to Volquartsen Custom to request that their gunsmiths take a look at it. Worst case scenario.

RFC forum member Ladykiller is going to pay me a visit this weekend, and he is going to take a look at my pistol to see if he can figure out what the issue is. I'm looking forward to another set of eyes scrutinizing my pistol's innards. Perhaps he will see something that I do not.
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#27 · (Edited)
I figured out what the issue is with my pistol.

After reinstalling the VQ Accuracy hammer assembly.... while watching a YouTube video on how to do so.... once everything was installed, I noticed that my Mainspring Housing lever assembly looked significantly different when viewing the frame from above, in comparison to the guy's pistol in the YouTube video looked like. The simplest way to convey it is: the forward portion of the MH latch assembly, the lower square forward part, was extended forward, thereby blocking the hammer and preventing it from being able to seat rearward in the down cocked position.

So, its the MH latch that is broken; one of its interior springs or whatever I'm guessing.

The bummer for me now is.... I friggen have to break it all down again and remove the hammer assembly, to get to the point where I can fully remove the MH. **ARGH!!!!**

Below is a photo:

 
#28 · (Edited)
MH,

Strange...your Main Spring Housing's top shelf (PN-24) that the Latch (PN-28) slides on, Extends out much further forward than in my MkIV Lower (see above pic top right)!? Has the MSH been disassembled before (for cerakoting)? Not sure if it's possible, but it appears the MSH may not be positioned properly with the Bolt Stop Cross Pin (PN-44)!!

For your assistance, HERE is some good info on the MSH removal\reinstall and HERE is a .pdf "download" of the MkIV assembly (see pg 36)!

Additionally, this AA VIDEO (minute 44 to 54) covers very well the Bolt Stop\Latch\Main Spring Housing Dis\Re-Assemblies!

Hope this helps...

Ted
 
#29 · (Edited)
MH,

Strange...your Main Spring Housing's top shelf (PN-24) that the Latch (PN-28) slides on, Extends out much further forward than in my MkIV Lower (see above pic top right)!? Has the MSH been disassembled before (for cerakoting)? Not sure if it's possible, but it appears the MSH may not be positioned properly with the Bolt Stop Cross Pin (PN-44)!!

Ted
Yes, I did remove the MSH from the lower frame, and disassembled it, prior to shipping the upper and frame for cerakoting. All the pistol's organs stayed with me.

That 'top shelf' as you call it, can physically be pushed to the rear to allow the hammer to pass; cock..... but it won't remain to the rear. Whatever habitually holds it in place, retracted, is no longer doing so.
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#34 ·
My Mark IV's frame arrived back from Ruger on Friday with the new mainspring housing assembly installed **yippie!**. I reinstalled all the VqC trigger components and took her to the firing range during Saturday. Put approximately 400 rounds through her without a hiccup. So.... here's to hoping this new mainspring housing lasts the lifetime of the pistol. :bthumb:

I've seriously grown to luv this pistol. I can't think of any of my others that I more greatly enjoy to shoot.

 
#37 ·
TANDEMKROSS "Cornerstone" Safety

A day ago I added to Rhaegal what should be the last aftermarket accessory. A TANDEMKROSS "Cornerstone" Safety Thumb Ledge for the Ruger Mark IV standard.

I had been eye-balling one of these for the last few months... but they're not cheap. Anyway, I am very glad that I broke down and purchased one. For me and the way that I shoot (at a controlled firing range), this extended ledge safety lever is outstanding. For someone that uses their Mark IV predominantly as a field gun.... I'd say it's probably not going to be as useful. But YMMV. :bthumb:



 
#38 ·
A day ago I added to Rhaegal what should be the last aftermarket accessory. A TANDEMKROSS "Cornerstone" Safety Thumb Ledge for the Ruger Mark IV standard.

I had been eye-balling one of these for the last few months... but they're not cheap. Anyway, I am very glad that I broke down and purchased one. For me and the way that I shoot (at a controlled firing range), this extended ledge safety lever is outstanding. For someone that uses their Mark IV predominantly as a field gun.... I'd say it's probably not going to be as useful. But YMMV. :bthumb:
Agreed! Have one on my 22\45 Lite...offers great control and balance! :D

Ted
 

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