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Old 07-14-2019, 07:32 AM
atomicsmurf

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63-5 rebound spring ?



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I have a 63-5 and love it except the last pull before hammer drops is really hard. Is that the rebound spring or the main spring?

Also I don't want to do anything that will change the single action trigger. It is ridiculously light. It has surprised me several times how light it is. It's gonna sound crazy but wouldn't mind that to be a smidge heavier.

PS On that last pull before the hammer drops in DA, it is making me pull the trigger to the right, which is adding an extra (geez I don't know what to call it) hitch or bump before it falls. When I pull left hand, no problem. So if I don't pull straight back with my right had it will hit a bump in the road to finishing the pull.
I'm thinking if I lighten a spring I wouldn't be yanking the trigger so hard to the right.

PPS MY father has the same model too and on his I can pull straight through, and it's an easier pull.

Are there any videos out there on how to change the springs for this particular model?
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Old 07-14-2019, 09:39 AM
WRF

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When I was in the business I told customers right off that there was only so much I could do with the J-frames like your little Kit Gun. There were old time police armorers that could slick up the Chief Specials but not much. Once the hammer is cocked to SA the main spring should not affect your SA poundage very much. The J frames are a coil type mainspring and not the flat springs used in the K, L, and N so you have fewer options like reshaping and tuning the spring for different types of performance. Years ago nobody offered any aftermarket coil springs for these guns so I can't comment on Wolf or Wilson or any of them. They may be the ticket. I recall spending a week working revolvers with Ron Power years ago and he demonstrated that even snipping back one coil on these springs affected lock-time and reliable ignition so that idea was off the table.

The rebound slide spring can be reduced but again on J-frames the least bit too much and fast DA work will suffer and bind up as the hammer can't rebound and set fast enough. These little revolvers do respond well to an experienced mechanic in the lockwork riding surfaces. Experienced ! Keep in mind that S&W revolvers inherently pull light up front then stack or get harder before they break. This is opposite of Colts which start heavy and lighten up coming home - like a freight truck they used to say

Good luck
Rick

Last edited by WRF; 07-14-2019 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 09:51 AM
atomicsmurf

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Thank you for the reply.

Do you have any thoughts on what may be causing this trigger to hit a "bump" if I pull right on the trigger? It's smooth all the way until the last little bit when the hammer falls. That's when there is a noticeable "bump" in the pull. I'm picturing it in my mind like a straight line, and then a rounded harder hump at the last, if that helps explain it better. But like I said it's only if I tug the trigger toward the right on my pull. If I pull straight or even left it's smooth.

My father's trigger pulls smooth no matter which direction I tug the trigger in.

I'll say I am more conscious of how I pull on any trigger now. I'm making a deliberate effort to pull straight back and not hink it to one side of the other.
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:33 AM
WRF

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I apologize for the delayed response however I'm not able to diagnose your problem without removing the side plate. It's hard to interpret a "bump" or trigger travel or other problems without having the gun on the bench. Anyway I just never do it and never did since there are just too many variables

Good luck
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:18 AM
atomicsmurf

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No problem. I understand completely. Thanks.
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:59 PM
6PtStar
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You might look at the fit between the hand and the ratchets. If the hand is bent in it will bind on the ratchet lugs after the cylinder locks which is just before it goes off.
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Old 07-15-2019, 08:42 PM
WRF

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It should be noted that S&W hands are hardened to a depth of about .003" . They don't bend. So unless somebody has been into your gun it's almost impossible. They can however damage and roll the edges of the ratchets but this would not explain your issues since a couple of bad ratchets would affect only a couple of cylinders.
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Old 07-16-2019, 02:16 PM
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They do bend on the pin. Sorry I was not clear, no the hand does not bend,
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Old 07-16-2019, 02:18 PM
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They do bend on the pin. Sorry I was not clear, no the hand does not bend. Yes you usually notice it worse on some cylinders than others.
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