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Old 05-04-2019, 02:22 PM
s10/22

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Non-Marring Punch???



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Two Mark IIs. The SS Competition, I put VQ internals in. When punching out the backside of the Trigger Pin, the metal punch slipped off the rounded surface and I have a few "mars". OK. It is brushed stainless and I will try to buff/scotchbrite out.

Getting ready to put VQ internals in a Gov't Target Model. I do NOT want to mar the bluing like SS mistake.

WHAT PUNCH OR TOOL WOULD YOU USE TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING???

I will try to post pics of SS and blued gun.

Thanks. S10/22.




Last edited by s10/22; 05-04-2019 at 02:26 PM. Reason: spelling error
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Old 05-04-2019, 03:26 PM
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I use brass punches on steel gun parts where cosmetics matter.

https://www.amazon.com/SPIKA-Gun-Car...-1-spons&psc=1

They’re especially useful for drifting dovetails & sights.
I bought an extra pair of smaller ones and drilled a dimple in the end to help preventing slips. Brass can help reduce damage, but not prevent it-
Always keep Newton’s second law in mind-

F=ma.

Hit it hard enough, and a brass punch will deform steel.

Hope this helps-

DrGunner
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Last edited by DrGunner; 05-06-2019 at 06:33 AM.
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Old 05-04-2019, 03:26 PM
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Brownells sells brass punches, but you can purchase 3/16” or 1/4” brass rod at the hardware store and make your own. You want the punch to be soft so as not to mar the finish, so why spend big bucks for something that’s gonna get beat up anyway? Brass rod also comes in handy for popping out squibs stuck in barrels or other pesky obstructions!
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Old 05-04-2019, 03:28 PM
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Useful hint: if filing on soft gummy metals like brass or aluminum, rub some plain old chalk onto your file first to avoid plugging it up. Makes carding the file super easy!!
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:00 PM
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Start with soft material punches and see what happens, sometimes stuff moves just fine for me with a synthetic tip.
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Old 05-04-2019, 11:16 PM
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Thank you all for the great tips. I appreciate the help. RFC never disappoints.
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Old 05-05-2019, 12:56 PM
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Use Nylon, or some other Plastic. I have both Brass and Nylon, and sometimes brass (especially on sights) will leave behind a type of brass residue, that is a pain to remove. Whenever i can get away with using nylon, i prefer it.
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Old 05-05-2019, 04:48 PM
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Ballistol wipes the brass smear right off
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Old 05-05-2019, 07:14 PM
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My learning continues. Thank you gentlemen.
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Old 05-06-2019, 05:40 AM
Rick H.
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You can also get special "concave" tipped punches for working on firearms. I have a few for working on Smith and Wessons.

Rick H.
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Old 05-06-2019, 01:46 PM
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Another useful tip for smaller diameter punches. Most punches come with a long tip to push the pin all the way out of the hole maybe 3/4" or more. A much shorter punch is way better to get stubborn pins started. They don't flex. I often use a reworked nail set to get pins started moving then switch to the longer punch.

Last edited by HUSHKABOOM; 05-09-2019 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 05-08-2019, 10:14 PM
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Cup tip punch..............

A cup tip punch is what is needed when dealing with a round ended pin like that, easy to make with a small abraisive stone is a Dremel tool. As for a non-marring soft punch bronze will not leave marks like a brass punch will. Brownell's sells bronze punches, as gunsmith I have made my own from round bronze rod.
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:13 AM
Rick H.
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If you can't or don't want to make your own concave punch(s), here is a part number for the Brownells complete set of concave punches, 080-000-645WB. You may not want the entire set but you can purchase them individually.

Rick H.
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Old 08-17-2019, 09:11 AM
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Add a drop of Kroil onto each side before attempting the drive out the pin...helps it regardless of what is used to drive the pin. Clean off excess oil before driving out the pin. Especially useful on older/dirty/gummed up guns.
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Old 08-17-2019, 11:31 AM
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Get an empty gallon milk jug and cut a 4in square piece out of it. Place the piece over the pin and us the big side of the punch to get it started. The use the correct size punch to finish the job


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