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  #31  
Old 01-05-2016, 04:42 PM
Penn25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipshot View Post
I've been working on a project stock that is one of those "design on the fly" and "play with ideas" kind of thing. I had a bunch of ideas floating around in my head, but had no real idea just how they might (or might not) work out together. The fun is in the challenge of making things work.

At some point I realized that I needed to install a rear cross pin anchor, i.e., binder post, Chicago screw, or whatever you might call them. Okay, so I needed to drill a hole through each side of the stock.... that's easy. The hard part is in getting them in exactly the right place. I put the stripped receiver in the stock and soon realized that there is just no real way to drill a hole from the inside using the receiver as a template. So I came to the obvious conclusion that I needed some way to register the rear trigger guard pin hole location exactly on the outside of the stock.

Well, it turned out to be as simple as drilling three holes in a piece of 1/8" aluminum angle stock. The whole thing, including some other things, required less than one hour. The best part is that the jig was free and was immediately available.

I found a piece of aluminum 2" angle stock in my junk bin and cut off a short piece.


I wanted to attach this to the top of the stripped receiver so that one side of the angle reached down the outside of the stock. I decided to use one of those old style Ruger 3/8" tipoff mounts in order to transition from the rounded receiver top to the flat angle piece. It was also thin enough that I wouldn't need a real long 6-48 screw to reach through it.


I used a scrap block of wood to space the receiver out from the leg of the angle piece. Next time I will use a somewhat narrower piece in order to reduce the spacing a little closer to the actual side of the stock... but this worked out okay for me this time.


I clamped the receiver to the angle piece (clamp not shown in this picture) and marked the location of two mounting holes.


Drill the holes as per the notes on the picture. The 9/64" hole is just right for the 6-48 screw to slide through without any wiggle.


Deburr and countersink to get a little more length out of a 1/2" x 6-48 screw (which is the minimum length that will work).


It's no secret that 6-48 screws are hard to find. It just so happened that I had a Power Custom scope base that I intended to mount on this build, so I borrowed a couple of the mounting screws for this little job. Tighten the screws snuggly, but they don't really need a lot of torque.




Carefully guide the 3/16" drill bit through the trigger guard holes and drill a hole in the aluminum piece. Take care not to wiggle the drill and ream the insides of the receiver holes.


That's all there is to it. It's now ready to use.


Mount the receiver in the stock. If you feel the need, you might want to mount the barrel first for additional alignment accuracy.


Attach with the takedown screw.


Following the notes on the picture, drill the cross pin holes.


...AND here you go, easier done than said.


Now if you intend to use a 3/16" binder post pin, you are done. Just assemble and carry on.


....BUT, if you'd like to install a 1/4" pin, you have some additional work to do.

Start by carefully drilling out the holes in the stock to 1/4",


...followed by drilling out the rear cross pin holes. In this particular case I'm not doing the front cross pin.




...AND finally drill out the trigger guard rear cross pin hole to 1/4".


Okay now you can assemble your build using the 1/4" binder pins.

Continued in Part 2
Absolutely brilliant Hipshot! Thanks not only for the design but your detailed information/description /design. I have a few stocks I want to do this to after I build the jig. Will also see if it will be suitable for drilling my Pmaca chassis . Now to start gathering materials and begin. Thanks again!

Paul

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  #32  
Old 01-05-2016, 05:54 PM
azguy
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Actually did this on a TROY chassis for a customer. Used Hipshots method, with a few tweaks for the application at hand. Worked out really well with no issues.






Turned out pretty nice and very solid. I drill and tapped the trigger group in this case.
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  #33  
Old 01-05-2016, 09:08 PM
fm2

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Nice tutorial!
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  #34  
Old 01-06-2016, 12:21 AM
Penn25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipshot View Post
Well this stock was really just a test bed for several ideas that I wanted to try. The exposed back of the action is just a style. (Even the Tomahawk stock used it.) A black buffer is not so noticable. It's just a look I was after and would really like to have one of the aftermarket "square backed" receivers. The original NODAK comes to mind.

Here is a profile shot of this stock.


As far as the style of this grip, I was trying to get some of the feel of the McMillan "gooseneck" look of the A-5, etc. stocks. Running the back of the stock all the way up like normal would have killed this look. That little "gooseneck" shelf is actually a thumbrest.

Photo is from McMillan website.


I got the idea to try the cutaway back while I was working on the stock pictured below. This one has the wood all the way up the back like normal. As you can see, it's just a drastically different look.
Very nice! Thanks and I will build two jigs. One for my Ruger wood, plastic and Hogue stocks and one for my growing number of Pmaca chassis.

Paul
Quote:
Originally Posted by azguy View Post
Actually did this on a TROY chassis for a customer. Used Hipshots method, with a few tweaks for the application at hand. Worked out really well with no issues.






Turned out pretty nice and very solid. I drill and tapped the trigger group in this case.

Sent from my HTC0P3P7 using Tapatalk
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  #35  
Old 03-19-2016, 11:46 AM
Like2Shoot
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Looks like a nice rigid idea to firm up stock/action contact, did anyone note an increased accuracy or more consistent grouping as a result of the mod?

I was thinking of trying this mod or making/buying some sort of rear tang to remove any movement from the equation.
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