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  #31  
Old 07-20-2019, 12:29 PM
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Best price I have found for built up A2 uppers (Rear Sight , Port Door & FA , installed is 140.00 $ from JSE . If anyone finds a better price please post linky up here ...
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  #32  
Old 07-20-2019, 01:22 PM
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Both irons & scope.
Original Bushmaster A2 Dissipator with 2X red dot.
Colt used to make 4X scopes for the A2.
You need a scope with a lot of elevation adjustment.
The Vortex SPARC has 90 MOA.
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  #33  
Old 07-20-2019, 04:01 PM
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I like the Iron sights for RIMFIRE , but may consider a Fake ACOG for the M16A4 22 build
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  #34  
Old 07-21-2019, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Gator Monroe View Post
I like the Iron sights for RIMFIRE , but may consider a Fake ACOG for the M16A4 22 build
I agree, based on use (target vs plinking) I have 22LR rifles with irons, red dots and scopes, and sometimes I like having the option of both

This PSA 22LR upper/dedicated rifle has a red dot that's fun for for plinking but also has a flip up rear MBUS that sights through the optic. This allows use of the irons if the red dot fails, or if desired, without removing the scope.



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  #35  
Old 07-22-2019, 02:36 PM
Willociraptor
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Critique My AR22 Build Plan?

Fired her two days ago, just a quick session to make sure it works. Ten rounds of CCI MiniMag RN. Good session!

Well, nothing blew up. Soooo.. that's a plus.

First 5-shot group was way off, but at least it was on paper. Needed 13 MOA up and 9 MOA right. The front sight post didn't want to rotate. Turns out it was already bottomed out and mechanically unable to go any further. What I did at the time was stack the entire adjustment onto the rear sight, but I figured it out after I got back home. (Just needed to adjust the screw underneath the post - see picture.)


Wondering if I can effectively "drift" the front sight by loosening the set screws, oh-so-slightly rotate the FSB about the bore line, and then re-tighten the screws?
Seems to me like a reasonable approach, but maybe I'm wrong, or maybe somebody knows a better way to accomplish this.

The actual shooting experience was REALLY fun. I don't remember even feeling any recoil, let alone enough to consider it "negligible." The most tactile aspect of shooting it was feeling the hammer strike home.

I have temporarily removed the carry handle and replaced it with a spare scope. This is to help me in the process of identifying the rifle's favorite kind of ammunition. Once that's taken care of, I'll reinstall the carry handle and proceed as normal.


So, things seem to be coming along nicely, but my to-do list still consists of:
- purchase and install a trigger that can handle blowback
- modify my green handguards (or just paint the black ones green)
- add a bolt hold-open feature
- identify the rifle's favorite ammo and reinstall the carry handle
- purchase and install the CLE hooded aperture upgrade for my carry handle
- purchase and install a lead stock weight

Happy with it so far, and it's only going to get better.


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  #36  
Old 07-22-2019, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willociraptor View Post

Wondering if I can effectively "drift" the front sight by loosening the set screws, oh-so-slightly rotate the FSB about the bore line, and then re-tighten the screws?
Seems to me like a reasonable approach, but maybe I'm wrong, or maybe somebody knows a better way to accomplish this.
Unless you machined flats into the barrel that would pull the FSB back into it's original position, that seems the only reasonable way to do it.

I'm assuming we've mostly seen the same youtube instructional videos. One I recall had the fellow drilling through the bottom of the FSB and threading it for a barrel dimple and set screw. That sort of thing is beyond my ability, but would result in a FSB that couldn't be knocked askew.

Do you expect to use an entire 3 and half pound wedge of lead, or do you trim the front to achieve a specific balance?

Last edited by zukiphile; 07-22-2019 at 03:08 PM.
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  #37  
Old 07-22-2019, 04:28 PM
Willociraptor
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Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
Do you expect to use an entire 3 and half pound wedge of lead, or do you trim the front to achieve a specific balance?
Thanks for bringing this up; I've honestly never considered doing that. Kinda like hefty rifles and always just figured I'd plop the whole thing in there to maximize the rifle's inertia.

Any tips/tricks on how to trim a weight for particular balance? Formulas/guidelines/tutorials/videos/etc? Most of the search results I'm getting are fishing related.


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  #38  
Old 07-22-2019, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willociraptor View Post

Any tips/tricks on how to trim a weight for particular balance? Formulas/guidelines/tutorials/videos/etc?
None. I've never used one.

I knew a fellow who had his AR up to 15 pounds. He not only had the buttstock triangular weight, but had a bunch of lead stuck to the interior of his handguard; he said the advantage was a reduction in perceived recoil in the standing position.

We don't have to worry about perceived recoil, but I could see the benefit of increasing the mass out at the very ends of the rifle.
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  #39  
Old 07-22-2019, 05:04 PM
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White Oak sells a lead weight for the forestock (handguard) that fits between the handguard and their NM free float tube. Tungsten would be heavier, if price were no object.

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Last edited by octanejunkie; 07-22-2019 at 05:30 PM.
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  #40  
Old 07-22-2019, 07:56 PM
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Agreed. I've found it's easier to shoot heavier rifles, my M1A is 12lbs unloaded and it's super fun to shoot. Very smooth. Recoil isn't snappy, it just kinda rocks your sights up a little bit and then you fall right back on target. This AR build is currently at 8.5lbs so with the rear weight it'll be about 12lbs.

I've never seen those handguard weights in the field but they've always struck me as odd. Rock River customer service told me their cuff weights won't fit between their float tube and the handguard, but I don't know about similar products from other makers. I guess they can only be used on normal/non-floated A2 handguards? Never done any Service Rifle matches and had the chance to look at other people's Service Rifles, but that's what it seems like to me. I guess if you don't have a floated barrel and you want to increase its inertia then you might as well add the weights, but I don't seem to even see very many nonfloated rifles anymore these days.

Not saying a nonfloated rifle can't shoot well. Shot my first long-range Appleseed (100, 200, 300, 400yds) in March with my 20" non-floated BCM.. on plain vanilla military-style open sights, nothing NM about the rifle or the barrel or the sights or the trigger or nothin. On a line of 12 shooters, only three people qualified - two guys who've been doing it for years and were on nice scoped & floated rifles, and a 33-yr old first-timer Marine with open sights and a nonfloated barrel. Pictures are of shooting from prone at the 400yd line in the rain, my mat and rifle (the lower half might look familiar), and then with my spiffy new Long Range patch. Right off the production line, most rifles can probably outshoot most shooters. In my experience it's usually more about having the right ammo for the rifle, and the shooter's proficiency, than the particular specs of the rifle.




OJ: Didn't know WOA's weights fit between the tube and the handguard. That's a nice feature! I don't know about the CLE weights but I'll give them a call tomorrow and ask.
Geissele's Super Modular MK7 NM quadrail accepts lead weights that screw into the interior of the rail. That would be a cool route to take, but alas I am not made of money so I do not own one.

Does anybody here use cuff weights? Do they fit between the tube and handguard or do they only fit nonfloated handguards?


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  #41  
Old 07-23-2019, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willociraptor View Post
Rock River customer service told me their cuff weights won't fit between their float tube and the handguard, but I don't know about similar products from other makers. I guess they can only be used on normal/non-floated A2 handguards?
You could use lead sheet and wrap it around your free float tube to as great a diameter as your handguards allow. https://www.amazon.com/KRT-Lead-Sheeting-Sheet-Rolls/dp/B01I289NG8/ref=asc_df_B01I289NG8/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adpositio n}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt= e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocph y=&hvtargid=pla-4583657823618606&psc=1

I think my friend years ago used stick on wheel weights on the inside of his handguard. Back then they would have been made of lead.

I'm considering of using reloader's lead ingots in the buttstock storage of the carbine stock I use, but I don't know the dimensions of the ingots and whether those would make it under your handguard.
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  #42  
Old 07-23-2019, 01:39 PM
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White Oak Armament says that their fore stock weight fits their modified front handguards. Maybe call them?

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  #43  
Old 07-31-2019, 10:02 PM
Willociraptor
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• Ditched the pursuit of modifying my RRA handguards. The CLE ones are clearly superior, so I decided to just paint them. Painted all the furniture involved in this project - the whole RRA set, plus the CLE composite handguards - Rustoleum camouflage Deep Forest Green, plus a coat of matte clear.


• Swapped out the entire lower half for a different one that's set up for precision work. And swapped the carry handle for a scope. Prepared for ammo performance assessments.


• Range day scheduled for Saturday. Gonna be testing a variety of ammo to figure out what it likes best. Once that's identified, it'll get reset to its intended configuration and zeroed for the good ammo.

Range report inbound sometime next week!


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  #44  
Old 08-03-2019, 07:44 PM
Willociraptor
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Critique My AR22 Build Plan?

Range day finally came. Went to the Indian River County Public Shooting Range in Fellsmere, FL, with my brother-in-law and two of his friends. Weather was nice in the morning, and I was almost wondering if the daily afternoon thunderstorms were going to take a day off. (Spoiler alert: they did not.)

I was intending to shoot at the pistol range's 25yd line for my ammo assessments, but the berm right behind the 25yd line had experienced a landslide from all the rain recently, and it was literally buried.. so I went to the 50yd line on the rifle range. Suboptimal testing conditions, but it was the next best thing available.

Got going and was having really bad - like just unacceptably bad - trouble with ammunition malfunctions. Only about 1 in 5 rounds would actually go off, and I lost a LOT of time counting to 30, letting them cook inside the chamber in case of a hang fire. Started suspecting the light hammer spring on my Elftmann trigger was the problem. Luckily I had my "for-real" lower half on standby, so I swapped out my "ammo testing" lower for it instead. The heavier Rock River trigger did the trick, and it was off to the races from there.

The shooting was done with a scope at 12X power, with the freefloated handguard resting on a sandbag. I don't own a shooting rest but it would've been nice to have. (In hindsight, I probably should have turned down the magnification. Too late now.)
The testing consisted of shooting three 5rd groups of the following.
The analysis consisted of running photos of each group through OnTarget software and averaging the data for each type in Excel to determine which types performed best.
The following types of ammo were tested:
- Aguila 20gr Colibri
- Aguila 20gr Super Colibri
- Aguila 40gr Super Extra HV RN
- Aguila 40gr Interceptor RN
- CCI 40gr Standard Velocity RN
- CCI 40gr MiniMag RN
- CCI 36gr MiniMag HP
- Federal 36gr "Redbox bulk" HP
- Federal 36gr "Bluebox bulk" HP
- Federal 40gr AutoMatch bulk RN
- Federal 38gr American Eagle HP
- Federal 38gr GameShok HP
- Federal 40gr GameShok RN
- Federal Premium 40gr Gold Medal Target RN
- Federal Premium 40gr HV Match RN
- Fiocchi 40gr Standard Velocity RN
- Geco 40gr Semi-Auto RN
- Remington 36gr Golden Bullet HP
- RWS 40gr Target Rifle RN
- Winchester 40gr SuperX Super Speed RN
- Winchester 36gr "Whitebox" bulk HP

I'll not bore you with all the raw data. Suffice it to say that the best groups came from the 36gr MiniMag HP's, with the 40gr MiniMag RN's in second. The CCI SV's and the Fiocchi SV's also produced nice groups, but exhibited some vertical spreading. I didn't know whether that was a result of inconsistencies on the ammo's part or breathing inconsistencies on my part, so I figured I'd get through the rest of the testing and do more groups of each for further experimentation. Best group of the day is pictured below, coming in just below 2 MOA. I've never been a guy who shoots dime-sized groups, so this is entirely acceptable in my book.


A rainstorm came abruptly upon the range, and the Range Officers didn't let the shooters go downrange to switch out their targets next time the line went cold, so I didn't get to put up a fresh target. Seemed silly to me, but whatever, their range their rules. Range went hot again and my target fell off of its staples in the rain very soon thereafter. Lightning came and the RO's said they were gonna shut down the range altogether on the next cold-range command.
It was clear to me that I wouldn't be testing any more CCI or Fiocchi Standard Velocity, so I took the scope off, put the carry handle back on, loaded up a magazine, and let my friends shoot it at the target-less cardboard backer downrange. Everybody enjoyed it, and when the range went cold again we packed up and left. And of course the skies cleared up as rapidly as they had darkened, right after everyone left.

So that's that. First actual range trip for the new AR-22. I'm very happy with how the build came out and look forward to shooting it at Appleseed and Rimfire Challenge events in the future. Should be a fun way to use my AR muscles for cheap!


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Last edited by Willociraptor; 08-03-2019 at 08:18 PM. Reason: Typos
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  #45  
Old 08-05-2019, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willociraptor View Post
Have badly wanted an AR in 22LR for a long time. Have bounced through several ideas over time, but consistently come back around to the same general pattern. Think of it as a CMP/NRA Service Rifle, just in 22LR:
  • 20" barrel w/rifle-length sights, and threaded muzzle.
  • Freefloated for accuracy.
  • A2 furniture.
  • Detachable rear handle, to allow for experimentation w/optics.
  • NM 2 stage 4.5 lb trigger
  • Nice sling
I shoot a lot of 22's, and I like the AR platform, and I want an accurate AR22.... I know that Compass Lake does this kind of thing right off the line, but the off-the-shelf CLE rifles just cost more than I'm willing to pay. So I have to part one together.

After spending a good deal of time looking at the different offerings, and have a strong idea of what I want to do. Just wanted to get yalls feedback on it, incase I can do something different/better.

Build List is as follows.... (*: notes at bottom)
  • Aero X15/Gen2 Lower Receiver, Stripped
  • CMMG Gunbuilder Partial LPK
  • Stag Arms A2 Ambidextrous Safety
  • Rock River 2-Stage NM Trigger, 4.5 lb
  • Rock River A2 Grip (Green)
  • Rock River A2 Buttstock Kit (Green)
  • Rock River Rear Weight, 3.5 lb
  • USGI Web Sling, 1.25" Nylon (Green)
  • Aero M4 Upper Receiver, Assembled
  • CMMG Rimfire Charging Handle
  • CMMG Arc22 BCG
  • * CMMG 20" 1:16 Govt-Profile Rimfire Barrel (cut to 16", recrowned, rethreaded)
  • * Pike Arms Fake Suppressor
  • * Compass Lake Float Tube Kit w/Handguard
  • * Compass Lake Adjustable FSB
  • Compass Lake NMA2 FS Post, .052" Tapered
  • Compass Lake NMA4 Rear Sight, .0595" Hooded Aperture, 1/2 MOA Clicks

* CMMG Barrel/BCG Kit -- this is the only rimfire barrel I've found that definitely has a .750" journal at the rifle-length gas position with 500% certainty.
* Fake Suppressor -- just for the cool factor but could be left off without hurting performance
* CLE Float Tube Kit w/HG -- I've looked at the float tube kits from Rock River, Fulton Armory, White Oak, and Compass Lake. I think I like the CLE one best but it's an important part selection so what do yall think?
* CLE Windage-Adjustable FSB -- basically need a FSB that's adjustable for windage, to further ensure that mechanical zero is good to go once assembled. The only companies I see who do this are CLE and Fulton, and I picked the CLE sight base simply because I already picked their FF tube. Any tips/pointers?
What's the reason for the 20" barrel? Are you trying to create a clone of a certain issue rifle? If not, anything more than 16" inches is detrimental for a typical 22 LR round.
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