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  #16  
Old 07-15-2019, 07:09 PM
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  #17  
Old 08-06-2019, 10:54 PM
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Well, I did not fix my problem and as predicted the malfunction happened during a big match and cost me 30 points because I didn't get three shots off. The malfunction happened after a complete cleaning the day before the match and the rifle had 20 rounds on it for fouling and it stove piped on round 57 of a 60 round match. There is definitely something else going on besides a dirty chamber. If it is a dirty chamber then Eley has to be the dirtiest ammunition I have ever seen. What I don't understand is how after changing nothing this rifle all of a sudden started having problems after shooting over 2000 rounds of this exact same ammo.

I will travel about two hours to a friend's home, who has a bore scope and we are going to go over this barrel with a fine tooth comb. Hoping to find some answers because losing this way stinks.
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Old 08-07-2019, 06:40 AM
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Sudden Malfunction

Hey Chaser, have you used the "red can" One Shot" for the lubrication of action parts without the cleaner? I ordered (I thought) the black can with cleaner/lube, and received the "red can", with just the lubing advantage. I hate to send back, and wonder if this will suffice for my bolt, recoil (Kidd) rod/ spring (excellent as you noted for a superior, smooth, recoiling). I hate to admit as I have several aftermarket one's that did not work as well. Hey, still learning at 80 young. Always looking for a better method or way on these 10/22's. The different product was my error in selecting wrong product. Thanks
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Old 08-07-2019, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaser View Post
KIDD handle assembly may be your answer.. 3 springs.. start with the Std. spring.. much smoother mo'beda cycling guaranteed.

Also... this is the Best Lube on the market and yes it makes a big ol' huge difference.. on the bolt...guide rod and inside the Receiver.. spray it on a clean interior/parts and let it dry.. do not wipe.



And.. I have Gents bring me their malfunctioning 10/22's often that tell me "I just cleaned the Bore and the Chamber".. I always ask if they scrubbed the Chamber with a bent brush and a solvent that cuts carbon? They look at me with a glazed over look... You very well may have a dreaded Carbon Ring and whatever you are doing is not cuttin' it... 90% of the ones I scrub and clean come back to life.

This is your friend along with Hoppes#9 : https://www.gunsmithertools.com/prod...p-chamber-tool
^This.

If it is a factory recoil assembly, with standard velocity ammo you will want a lower power recoil assembly. And as said above, scrub the carbon ring out of the throat. I use a 6mm brush and hoppes for mine.
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Old 08-07-2019, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullseye4845 View Post
Hey Chaser, have you used the "red can" One Shot" for the lubrication of action parts without the cleaner? I ordered (I thought) the black can with cleaner/lube, and received the "red can", with just the lubing advantage. I hate to send back, and wonder if this will suffice for my bolt, recoil (Kidd) rod/ spring (excellent as you noted for a superior, smooth, recoiling). I hate to admit as I have several aftermarket one's that did not work as well. Hey, still learning at 80 young. Always looking for a better method or way on these 10/22's. The different product was my error in selecting wrong product. Thanks
Red Can is to my knowledge the CASE LUBE for reloading and it's clearly marked for that purpose.. not the same formula for sure but.. may work.. just not sure what the H### it will do with carbon and slugde/MUD.. says it has the DynaGlide Plus.. thus good lube.. not a cleaner for sure... Dunno really what to tell ya. I do use it for reloading.. good stuff... much better and EZer than pastes on casings... so.. yes.. no..maybe.
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Old 08-08-2019, 06:36 AM
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Most of the malfunctions I've seen have been from rough internal receivers or guide rods/bolt handles. You would think that it would have smoothed out not gotten worse. May be worth a new extractor. I also like to polish the tip of the fixed ejector. I know people say magazine does it all and I'll get some flak but I swear by changing the angle on the ejector tip it can affect the ejection pattern to reduce stove pipes. Sometimes they have burs left from the stamping. You may have bent yours over time. They are soft steel. If you went through half a case of ammo with no problems, I doubt it's the ammo but you never know......
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  #22  
Old 08-08-2019, 09:37 AM
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You put an extra power spring in initially with a new, tight chamber. You have used it for a bunch of rounds since and it is now broke in. The stovepiping is a slow extraction/ ejection or the slide is coming back into battery too quickly. How could that be? Too much spring? Have you tried the oem spring now?
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  #23  
Old 08-08-2019, 09:29 PM
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if you just want fewer stovepipes then playing around with guide rods and springs and hornady one shot may serve to get the fired case out smoother and faster with fewer stove pipes. but assuming you have an ejector and a bolt and a receiver the extractor really is the end all be all when it comes to stovepipes. also the ruger extractor really is more of a problem than a solution.
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