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Old 04-29-2019, 07:59 PM
oldbird13
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Turn line on Revolvers question???



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Have recently acquired some S&W and Colt revolvers so have gained an interest in these fine hand guns. My question is...so many refer to the turn line appearance/how deep as to the value. Is there a way to minimize wear of this "line"? I read a recent post where someone has shot 1,000 rounds since acquiring a gun and the turn line looks no worse than when they acquired the gun. Thanks
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Old 04-30-2019, 10:40 AM
Joe A.
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Assuming the revolver is in time, a turn line can occur by haphazardly closing the cylinder. To help prevent forming a turn line when closing the cylinder, align a chamber to the barrel prior to closing so that when closed, the locking bolt goes more or less directly into the bolt slot or leade. That will help to prevent a turn line but they can mysteriously appear at times.

Joe
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Old 04-30-2019, 10:58 AM
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Having owned quite a number of Ruger revolvers in my lifetime I have learned to pretty much ignore turn lines. However, its another reason that I favor stainless steel revolvers, because turn lines don't show up as bad.
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Old 04-30-2019, 06:30 PM
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jstanfield103
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Turn lines are part of owning a revolver. But to keep them to a minimum, when you close the cylinder do as Joe A stated but even better just close the cylinder and if empty or ready to fire cock the hammer to lock the cylinder in place. Don't turn the cylinder to lock it in.
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Old 04-30-2019, 06:53 PM
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Good advise already.
Ime, Rugers are kinda bad on this, others can be.
The timing of the bolt coming up into contact with the locking notch ramp, and the position/shape of the bolt to that ramp is all critical hand fitting (or plain luck on factory assembly) and not much right for decades now. Studying the function and watching that bolt can be instructive....and confusing. Just what makes the jumping parts do what when differs between manufacturers and the fine tune tweaks are just that.
Fwiw, when I get a revolver one of the first things I do is stone the top of the bolt (I like it smooth) and angle the training edge back (it is often the place that hits and bites the cylinder first). I like it to rise to the cylinder just at the leading edge of the ramp, it rides the ramp and 'drops' into the locking notch.
On a dbl.action when you close a cylinder into the frame, loaded or not, do not close it and rotate the cylinder by hand into lock up. The bolt will ride the cylinder.
Close it and cock it letting the mechanism retract the bolt and lock itself up at the next chamber.
Or, as said, close it carefully aligning the bolt and notch as it settles in.
With a traditional sgl.action after you load the last chamber do not rotate the cylinder by hand, close the gate, cock it and let the mechanism do it.
This will cut back on the line a LOT.
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Old 04-30-2019, 08:37 PM
oldbird13
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Thank you gentlemen, appreciate the advice. Just had a Colt 1st series Detective Special nickel plated in .38 Special that was made prior to 1940 and could not see any sign of turn line.
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Old 04-30-2019, 08:46 PM
Bradical
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O' come on. What fun is owning a revolver if you can't spin the cylinder after loading the rounds and shove it into your holster?

Last edited by Bradical; 04-30-2019 at 08:50 PM.
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