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Old 07-15-2017, 07:28 PM
cabin22
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10/22 Newbie ramblings - Check that factory rail



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So today I got my box-stock 10/22 to the cabin 25 yard range for its second outing. The first time out was mostly to sight in the scope & check function but this time I wanted to play a bit. So multiple groups of CCI SV & Tac 22 were expended. No problems, that I knew of, although I did have to tweak the scope settings - that should have been my first clue.

Than, I decided to try that nefarious "Tack Driver" target. First row wasn't so bad but things seemed to go awry on the 2nd & 3rd rows; ditto row 5.

Argh! That target is simply too humbling, so I decided to put the 10/22 away and start shooting its cousin, the RAR Compact. As I was picking it up from the bags, I heard a bit of a rattle. Upon closer inspection, I realized the factory scope rail which I had mounted a little while back, was loose. I mean really loose. This was no doubt the reason for my wandering zero, and continual fiddling with scope adjustments. Fortunately I had exactly one torx wrench with me, and it fit ring mounting bases. I.loosened the bases, removed the scope, and found, to my chagrin, all four rail screws were loose. I know I tightened those little buggers when I installed the rail, but sure enough, each one came loose. Tightened them again, remounted the scope, and two clicks later on the scope settings, all was well. I've never had this problem before, but I will pay attention to that rail in the future.

On a secondary note, after getting the 10/22 scope back to zero, I picked up the RAR Compact for a few rounds. It is beginning to shoot better and the bolt is getting smoother. But what I noticed instantly was the trigger, The stock RAR trigger is Heaven compared to the stock 10/22 trigger. I knew the 10/22 trigger was a bit stiff, i.e. heavy, when I was shooting it, but didn't realize just how heavy it was until I started shooting the RAR. Wow, what a difference!

You'd think after all these years, that Ruger could put a decent trigger in the 10/22, since they certainly can put a decent stock trigger in the RAR. They should hang their heads in shame on that "feature."

Last edited by cabin22; 07-15-2017 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:06 PM
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To address some of your concerns, particularly the scope base screws. When you put those screws in, do not, repeat, DO NOT, overtighten them. They shouldn't be more than nice and snug. If you apply much in the way of torque to them, the threads in the receiver will strip, and then you are royally screwed (pardon the pun). Blue Loctite is your friend here. Make sure that it's the blue medium strength Loctite. If you use the red high strength, those screws will the in there forever. When you apply the Loctite, first degrease all 4 of the mounting screws, then apply a tiny drop of Loctite to the screw threads and screw it into the receiver after you have the scope mount base lined up. I can't emphasize TINY enough. You won't need much, and don't apply it to the receiver threads and then put the screw in. That's a good way to get Loctite in your bolt, and you really don't want to go there. Trust me on that. Loctite in your bolt is something you really don't want to have to deal with. So once you have the scope base in place and the mounting screws Loctited and snugged down, let the Loctite set up for a couple hours, and those screws should never come loose unless you want to take them out.

The reason that the RAR trigger is so much better than a 10/22 trigger is that the two of them are completely different mechanical designs. Comparing a 10/22 trigger to a RAR trigger is like comparing apples and oranges. One has nothing to do with the other. You can adjust the pull weight of the RAR trigger, which you can't do with a 10/22 trigger. In fact, if you take the RAR trigger return spring out and replace it with a weaker one, you can get the trigger pull down to under 3 pounds. I did that with my RAR, and now have a trigger pull of 2 pounds, and I could go lighter, but I thought that 2 pounds was good for general principles and so I left it at that in the interests of safety.

On 10/22 triggers, the good news is that you can send your trigger group to Brimstone (http://www.brimstonegunsmithing.com) for a Tier 3 trigger job for 50 bucks and get it back within a week with a really great trigger pull of between 2 and 3 pounds. Or you can buy a BX-Trigger. I have 3 of them now. 2 measure 2.5 lbs., and one measures 1 pound 10 ounces. There are also other places and products that will reduce 10/22 trigger pull, but all of them are more expensive than Brimstone. I don't know what your budget is, or even if you have a budget, so I started with the less expensive modifications first. You could also install a Volquartsen or Power Custom hammer & sear kit, or a Kidd Trigger Job Kit or Single Stage trigger. Depends on how much (if any) money you want to spend to improve the trigger in your 10/22. Kidd website is http://www.coolguyguns.com, if you want to look at Tony Kidd's products.

Have fun with your new 10/22, and let us know how things work out.

Last edited by CATMguy445; 07-15-2017 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 07-15-2017, 10:29 PM
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One way to make sure you don't get any loctite in your receiver ( besides applying sparingly) is to stick a piece of scotch tape inside the top of the receiver where the holes are and after applying let it dry with the rifle upside down.
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Old 07-15-2017, 10:39 PM
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I'll second the lite amount of Loctite. I put a drop of Loctite on a plastic bottle cap and then used a small precision screwdriver tip to pick up a little bit and touched the tip to the screw threads in one spot.

I was debating what way to go on my 10/22 trigger and the the Grabagun BX deal at $49.99 was my decision as it meant no down time by shipping the existing trigger group out. From what I've been reading here it seems Ruger has smoothed out BX trigger production and getting more consistent results. Mine is very nice and well worth it.
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:21 PM
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Thanks all for the advice on the blue Loctite. I'll do that; I'm just surprised all four came loose to begin with.

My comment on the triggers between the RAR & 10/22 is intended solely to highlight how much better the RAR stock trigger is than the stock 10/22 trigger. I had intended on leaving the 10/22 stock but some trigger work is clearly in order. Brimstone or BX, not sure which. Kind of disappointing that Ruger can make a better 10/22 trigger, they just don't put it in the standard rifle. Ah well....
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Old 07-16-2017, 01:15 AM
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Brimstone tier 2. Just do it.
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:22 AM
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loctite in the stick form is your friend
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:46 PM
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Ruger trigger

If you wanta' learn a little about your 10/22 while improving it, get a VQ target hammer and install it yourself. Yep, just replacing the hammer will improve the 10/22 trigger a lot. Should get you down to around 2.5 lbs. I guess there are still videos and directions in the tips and tricks section. It's not hard to do.
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:22 PM
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i use a wooden tooth pick

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkS20 View Post
I'll second the lite amount of Loctite. I put a drop of Loctite on a plastic bottle cap and then used a small precision screwdriver tip to pick up a little bit and touched the tip to the screw threads in one spot.

I was debating what way to go on my 10/22 trigger and the the Grabagun BX deal at $49.99 was my decision as it meant no down time by shipping the existing trigger group out. From what I've been reading here it seems Ruger has smoothed out BX trigger production and getting more consistent results. Mine is very nice and well worth it.
to apply tiny dab of blue lock titeto the screw threads, works perfectly and just throw it away.
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabin22 View Post
Thanks all for the advice on the blue Loctite. I'll do that; I'm just surprised all four came loose to begin with.

My comment on the triggers between the RAR & 10/22 is intended solely to highlight how much better the RAR stock trigger is than the stock 10/22 trigger. I had intended on leaving the 10/22 stock but some trigger work is clearly in order. Brimstone or BX, not sure which. Kind of disappointing that Ruger can make a better 10/22 trigger, they just don't put it in the standard rifle. Ah well....
I can tell you why Ruger doesn't put BX-Triggers in all the 10/22's they build with one word. The word is LAWYERS. With the number of 10/22's that Ruger sells each year, there are bound to be a certain number of buyers who have somewhere around a room temperature IQ and will invariably do something not terribly bright with their new 10/22. Having a trigger that's not real light helps a little bit toward reducing the number of negligent/accidental discharges that would probably happen if the 10/22 came with a 2 or 3 pound trigger pull. I could just about hear some lawyer going on in court about how Ruger was selling guns that had triggers that were so light that they were unsafe etc., etc. You can't make anything idiot proof (they'll find a way to screw up, no matter what), but you can make it a little less likely. That's why 10/22's have a 7 pound factory trigger.

I think Ruger figures if somebody knows enough about what they're doing to want a lighter trigger pull, they offer them an easy solution in the BX-Trigger. It probably doesn't hurt Ruger's feelings that the solution makes more money for Ruger, either.
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:35 AM
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[QUOTE=CATMguy445;9165497]
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Originally Posted by cabin22 View Post
Thanks all for the advice on the blue Loctite. I'll do that; I'm just surprised all four came loose to begin with.


I can tell you why Ruger doesn't put BX-Triggers in all the 10/22's they build with one word. The word is LAWYERS. With the number of 10/22's that Ruger sells each year, there are bound to be a certain number of buyers who have somewhere around a room temperature IQ and will invariably do something not terribly bright with their new 10/22. Having a trigger that's not real light helps a little bit toward reducing the number of negligent/accidental discharges that would probably happen if the 10/22 came with a 2 or 3 pound trigger pull. I could just about hear some lawyer going on in court about how Ruger was selling guns that had triggers that were so light that they were unsafe etc., etc. You can't make anything idiot proof (they'll find a way to screw up, no matter what), but you can make it a little less likely. That's why 10/22's have a 7 pound factory trigger.

Well that may be true, they're are plenty of other guns that come stock from the factory with MUCH lighter trigger pulls than the 10/22. Ruger already sells other guns with light triggers. I think it has more to do with the extra work involved to make a better trigger on a rifle that cost less than $200. It's all about the bottom line.
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by DRob View Post
If you wanta' learn a little about your 10/22 while improving it, get a VQ target hammer and install it yourself. Yep, just replacing the hammer will improve the 10/22 trigger a lot. Should get you down to around 2.5 lbs. I guess there are still videos and directions in the tips and tricks section. It's not hard to do.
That will lighten the pull up, but will likely not do much for the slop in it. That was the first thing I found when I first came to this forum, and I got one right away. And I thought the thing was magical. And funny how its all evolved over time. The VQ hammer is probably around $35 from just guessing. For not much more, I'd eat the 2 weeks wait (max time most likely) and just send off for a Tier 3 Brimstone job. Its going to end up a lot better than just the VQ hammer install in the end.

Just sold one of my old trigger groups on Ebay last month, one I've had for a while. It had my original VQ hammer and strut spring, RT adjustable sear and RT trigger, an RT barrel extended mag release and a butt ton of polishing of the plunger, plunger hole, and the whole TG was polished to 1000gr. It was a pretty light trigger at just over 2lbs, but it still had the gush to it. Aluminum housing from a 1991 rifle. The polymer new TG I sent for a Tier 2 is a good two notches better than that one was.

And while I don't want to sound like I'm pooping on the VQ hammer, just saying the tier 3 Brimstone isn't that much more money and will yield a much better result.
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Old 07-17-2017, 05:32 PM
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[QUOTE=Nick7274;9165561]
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Originally Posted by CATMguy445 View Post


Well that may be true, they're are plenty of other guns that come stock from the factory with MUCH lighter trigger pulls than the 10/22. Ruger already sells other guns with light triggers. I think it has more to do with the extra work involved to make a better trigger on a rifle that cost less than $200. It's all about the bottom line.
Yes, they do, but are all of those guns with lighter trigger pull weight semi auto? I think that's the key word. What other manufacturer makes a semi auto .22 with a really light, crisp trigger?
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:13 PM
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[QUOTE=CATMguy445;9168737]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick7274 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CATMguy445 View Post


Well that may be true, they're are plenty of other guns that come stock from the factory with MUCH lighter trigger pulls than the 10/22. Ruger already sells other guns with light triggers. I think it has more to do with the extra work involved to make a better trigger on a rifle that cost less than $200. It's all about the bottom line.
Yes, they do, but are all of those guns with lighter trigger pull weight semi auto? I think that's the key word. What other manufacturer makes a semi auto .22 with a really light, crisp trigger?

I'm not talking about a hair trigger. But the 10/22 trigger is anywhere from 6 - 8 1/2 lbs. The trigger that they put on their target model 10/22's is closer to 3.5 lbs. I think pretty much every rimfire rifle has a lighter trigger than the standard 10/22 does.
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:15 PM
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The last 2 I bought were 5.5 and just over 5lbs from the factory. I was kind of shocked. Of course the TG's got sent off immediately but when I put that gauge on there, I was waiting on 7-8 to pop up.
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