Mark III-VQ Light Strikes

[gfatherbob]

Could use some community advice regarding light strikes in Mk III - VQ
-light strikes 2%-5%
-CCI SV ammo
-VQ Scorpion upper
-Mk III lower with VQ parts including VQ Mk II hammer, VQ firing pin
-trying to use gun for Bullseye competition
-attached photo shows typical light strikes along with corresponding dent on cylindrical part of brass

[Woody57]

First thing to do is clean the chamber really well. I had this same problem and that is how I got it to go away.

[jstanfield103]

Personally I want to say that this is just my opinion. I have never had this problem so take it what it is worth.

1. It maybe the VQ hammer is to light. Try with the Ruger stock hammer. Not quite getting the hitting power of the heavier stock hammer.

2. Is the replacement bushing dragging the hammer a little or is there anything putting stress on the hammer (friction)

3. Did you replace the hammer strut spring to a lighter spring ? That would be a very good guess as to the culprit.

Those would be the first things that I would check. If you replaced the hammer strut spring would be my biggest concern.

[stewswanson]

Originally Posted by Woody57

First thing to do is clean the chamber really well. I had this same problem and that is how I got it to go away.

Try Woody's hint. In theory what happens is the round doesn't fully chamber and when struck by the Firing Pin it Is not solid against the breech and therefore does not collapse the rim as well .
Stew

[Indigo22]

Has this happened since getting cold? You may be using oil or grease that is temperature sensitive or too thick.

[Racer X]

Originally Posted by stewswanson

Try Woody's hint. In theory what happens is the round doesn't fully chamber and when struck by the Firing Pin it Is not solid against the breech and therefore does not collapse the rim as well .
Stew

This is one of the classic symptoms of a dirty chamber and the beginning/middle of forming a carbon ring. Just search for carbon ring here, and hunker down for a good read.


Bronze/brass brush, and a strong CLP like Eezox, and some good scrubbing. I have used a cordless drill at a slow speed and was appalled at what came out on the brush. Another option is Iosso Bore Paste or J-B bore cleaner paste (not the polish, it removes metal)on a patch wrapped around a brush.

I mentioned Eezox as it is more of a solvent, wheras Breakfree CLP is more of a lubricant/preservative. In MY experience.

[Test_Engineer]

Originally Posted by gfatherbob

Could use some community advice regarding light strikes in Mk III - VQ
-light strikes 2%-5%
-CCI SV ammo
-VQ Scorpion upper
-Mk III lower with VQ parts including VQ Mk II hammer, VQ firing pin
-trying to use gun for Bullseye competition
-attached photo shows typical light strikes along with corresponding dent on cylindrical part of brass

I'm not sure if the VQ Scorpion is considered to be a match barrel or a sporting barrel. Several bullseye forums have reported that the driving bands on CCI ammo are a bit long for use in match barrels. You might try a different brand.

Your picture also shows witness marks (a long scratch) from the LCI. You might consider removing it, or at least smoothing/polishing the metal tab that rubs against the rounds as they chamber.

The little dent occurs while the round is still in the mag. Shouldn't be a problem if it remains light enough to not affect chambering. After you clean your chamber well, as others have suggested, drop a new round into the chamber (while holding the LCI back) and verify it falls in completely. Then try it again with one of your dented rounds. If the dented round hangs slightly out, send me a PM and I'll help you with ending the denting.

[KTGunsmithing]

Originally Posted by Test_Engineer

Your picture also shows witness marks (a long scratch) from the LCI.

VQ Scorpion (LLV) uppers don't and never have had LCI's.

[Test_Engineer]

Originally Posted by KTGunsmithing

VQ Scorpion (LLV) uppers don't and never have had LCI's.

Thanks KT. Good to know. But something produced a long scratch at 9:00 on the pictured round. Maybe a burr in the chamber mouth? Worth checking on.

[KTGunsmithing]

Originally Posted by gfatherbob

Could use some community advice regarding light strikes in Mk III - VQ

Without knowing more I 'd suggest:
Cleaning:
Make sure the chamber is clean, unless ordered differently LLV uppers have a "match" chamber and 22 LR has a nasty habit of leaving a hard layer of carbon in the chamber. If the rd won't chamber so the rim is up against the barrel face you have ignition issues.
Make sure the bolt face (and rim recess) and barrel face are clean so the surfaces do contact.
Make sure the hammer moves freely.

Disassemble and clean the bolt and firing pin channel making sure the firing pin moves freely and the firing pin spring and its' support are ok.

Lube with a very thin, low viscosity oil.

[KTGunsmithing]

Originally Posted by Racer X

I have used a cordless drill at a slow speed and was appalled at what came out on the brush.

I do the same thing using Brownells' Special Line brass cored brushes, a .243 rifle brush for 22LR chambers with Eds Red (the no acetone version) for a solvent.

It is amazing what comes out of chambers that were supposedly clean. You do have to be careful to just clean the chamber.

.22LR is really bad about leaving a layer of carbon in the chamber that is all too easy to be polishing rather than removing.

[gfatherbob]

Many thanks to the community for advice based on experience.

After reading the Carbon Ring threads, I have ordered bore paste to remove the carbon ring.

More information:

-The VQ barrel has been fired 5K-7.5K rounds
-Always clean barrel and bolt after 100-150 rounds using solvent such as CLP
-Always load only 5 rounds in magazines
-The first round out of the magazine never fails to have a deep strike, only subsequent rounds
-rounds that fail to ignite cannot be removed by the Tacsol extractor, hence the scratches on the brass.
-Light strikes do not occur during slow fire when the rate of fire is 1 round per minute
-Light strikes occur during rapid or sustained fire when the rate is 5 rounds in 10-20 seconds

[SGW Gunsmith]

First off, you don't need to use a 6mm caliber BORE brush to clean a .22 rimfire chamber. That size brush is way too big for a .22 rimfire chamber. Here at Sarona Gun Works LLC extensive experience has taught that the .22 rimfire bore brush will work excellently to clean a chamber and leade if you use the correct equipment. Try measuring the case diameter on a .22 rimfire cartridge and compare it to the dimesnions of a .22 rimfire chamber. Then, measure the diameter (honestly) of a .22 rimfire bore brush, and then compare those dimensions.
A .22 rimfire chamber can easily be cleaned with common sense, and using an "over-size" bore brush will only bend the bristles backward to where they do no good. We here, currently have an innovative combination chamber and receiver brush with easily interchangeable brushes. Both of the nylon and bronze bristle chamber brushes can easily be changed. The end brushes are also brass and stiff natural hair bristles that will clean in and around the internal receiver areas. I am still testing various brush combinations that will keep the price point for this tool at around $10.00 to $11.00.



One thing I've learned over the years is to let the "solvent" do the job of softening whatever carbon build-up is encountered, but always, consider a wet patch through the chamber and bore right after a shooting session. That simple attention alone will prevent any need for scrubbing.

[vic479h]

I want one.

[AzShooter]

What a great tool for on the range cleaning during a match. Wish I had one. How much?