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  #16  
Old 05-31-2013, 10:17 PM
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So THAT'S how you melt the button so uniformly, on my first attempt at making one of these I used an open flame. Ended up with something functional, but not near as nice looking as yours.

Great write up, definitely need to make me a chamber brush.
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  #17  
Old 06-01-2013, 01:14 AM
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Awsome, I love this place
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  #18  
Old 06-01-2013, 12:12 PM
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Chapter 2- The Gunner Jagsnake

I designed the Gunner Jagsnake because I wanted a frictionless method for applying solvent and lube to my barrels in the field without packing a cleaning rod.

To make them, you need :

.095 inch trimmer line (smaller line will work, you simply use smaller drill bits). Black plastic 22 caliber Hoppes jags
an X-Acto knife
a drill or dremel with a small Jacobs chuck
1/16", 3/32", and 7/64" drill bits
a bench sander or bench grinder
Cyanomethacrylate glue- liquid. Krazy Glue liquid will work
Super glue gel will not. The thin liquid cyanomethacrylate glue sold at Hobby Lobby and most hobby stores works best.

As I said before, the Hoppes Jags are available on Amazon for $1-2 apiece
(WATCH shipping charges!!!)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...2970092&sr=1-5

In the first step, cut the threads off of the jag with an Exacto knife:



Then have the three drill bits (1/16", 3/32" & 7/64") ready.



Here's the only tricky part:

You have to drill an axial hole through the center of the jag while holding it in one hand using a 1/16" drill bit in a Dremel or power drill in your other hand. I have found that a Dremel with a small Jacobs Chuck works best. You can drill the hole surprisingly deep as long as you stay centered.
Drilling with the jag in a vise doesn't work... The jag will slip loose, and if you tighten the vise enough to really grip it, it will crush and deform the jag.

How?
Make sure you are working with new, sharp drill bits.
Work slowly and carefully, you can feel the heat inside of the jag under your fingers, if you're too close to one side, redirect the bit or you will come through. I generally drill to a depth of 1/2 inch, although 3/8" is safer and will suffice.



Set it aside and let it cool. Do another, etc, etc.

Then chuck up the 3/32" bit and drill again, using the heat you can feel in the hand holding the jag to keep the drill bit centered:



It's not too hard to reach a decent depth:



Then chuck up the final bit, in this case, a 7/64" will work for .095" trimmer line, and carefully drill the hole to depth. It helps to freeze the jags before this last drill step to keep them from melting:



Check to be sure you can insert the trimmer line to an adequate depth, at least 3/8":



Now, take the jag and chamfer the end with the drill hole, this taper will make it slip into the chamber easily and prevent the jag from getting hung up on the breech face. I turn them at a 45 degree angle against a bench sander for this task, but hand sanding would work:





Now, insert the trimmer line to full depth and mark the depth.
THIS NEXT STEP IS CRITICAL!!!
Score the trimmer line on all sides by dragging an Exacto knife along the surface perpendicular to the trimmer line. It helps if you use the tip of the blade, so that it can flex. When you get it right, as you drag the blade over the surface of the trimmer line, it will "chatter" along, leaving a neat row of nicks. Repeat the scoring process to all sides of the trimmer line. You're not cutting into it, just scraping the sharp edge of the blade against the trimmer line in repeated rows all the way around the circumference of the line.



The act of roughing up the surface of the trimmer line will allow the cyanomethacrylate glue to adhere. Krazy Glue liquid works fine, but thin liquid cyanomethacrylate glue from Hobby Lobby works best. In fact, Krazy glue WILL ADHERE to most plastics IF you rough up the surface adequately.

The finished trimmer line should look like this:



Next, apply the Krazy glue to all sides of the trimmer line, and add a small drop into the hole in the jag. Have Qtips handy for wiping the excess glue off the jag/trimmer line interface. Push the glue covered trimmer line into the hole in the jag IN ONE FIRM, SWIFT MOTION. Then use a Qtip, rotating the line and pressing the Qtip at the seam to quickly wipe off excess glue:



If you go too slow, it WILL lock up.
The end result should look like this:







Now simply cut the trimmer line at the other end to create an angled end to prevent it from hanging up on tuners and other sharp edges.

IMPORTANT: When using all of these "puller" type tools to clean your rifles, WATCH OUT for sharp edges, like the extractor groove on a 10-22 barrel. Some of them are extremely sharp and can nick the trimmer line if you're not careful to guide the line away from it. The same rule applies for boresnakes.

These things are surprisingly strong and will hold up for years, my oldest one is still working after almost three years of use. Obviously, you can also make them with larger caliber jags, its easier and you can drill the hole deeper for more strength.

Regards,

DrGunner

Last edited by DrGunner; 06-01-2013 at 05:12 PM.
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  #19  
Old 06-01-2013, 12:32 PM
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Tomorrow...

I will post Chapter 3: The Gunner Brushsnake

DrG
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  #20  
Old 06-01-2013, 01:34 PM
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Wow. Like buscuits and gravy, its all good. Thanks gunner.
Any information on your cleaning process at the range and when you get home from the range?
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  #21  
Old 06-01-2013, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwatty View Post
Wow. Like buscuits and gravy, its all good. Thanks gunner.
Any information on your cleaning process at the range and when you get home from the range?

At the range, I will only clean my target rifles as necessary when their accuracy falls off-


I use a 1:3 mix of Hoppes 9 and Kroil or EEZOX to clean the chamber and bore. I usually mix a good size batch and work from a very small container- dipping brushes into a large bottle of solvent is a bad idea, as it accumulates grit and contaminants over time.

I bend the brush that I scrub the chamber with to the length I need to get to the carbon ring, which forms right at the end of the casing. Use a spent case to set the depth, but if the brush you use is tapered, you might need to make the bend a little longer- you just don't want to scrub deeper than the length of a live round.

I use Otis pistol brushes, they're shorter than most rifle brushes, and therefore you can bend them below where the bristles start, which makes it easier to get a nice clean bend in the twisted wire shaft of the brush and avoid smashing the bristles. Plus, they're sold in a pack of 10 that come individually packaged in handy little hard sided flip open clear sided boxes that can be modded to protect the brushes on tools in your range bag, 10 for $10.50. Win-Win, IMO

http://www.amazon.com/Otis-Bulk-No-2...+brush+10+pack

http://yhst-79929231592751.stores.ya...sifasibrp.html


No real need to go deeper and scrub the actual leade or rifling, unless you have copper or lead fouling in the lands and grooves and if that's the case, you should be brushing the entire bore to begin with.
Most hand lapped barrels will not suffer from lead fouling...

If your barrel gets dirty really easily you might want to polish it with a little JB bore paste.

The short answer- I scrub with solvent about 1/8" deeper than the casing length, and use my jagsnake and patchsnakes to do the rest. I clean the chamber about once every 1000 rounds on some barrels, once every 500 or so on others.

Basically, I clean the bore with a brushless boresnake or my jag and button pullers, about every 2-300 rounds at the range- Which is a function of accuracy-

snake or patch it when it fades.

This is why, IMHO, it is imperative to test barrels extensively with proven lots of good match grade ammo, so that you KNOW what a rifle is capable of- only then can you be confident in assessing the rifles behavior/loss of accuracy because of fouling.

I clean my barrels at the range with cotton patches, one- two passes with Hoppes/Kroil mix or EEEZOX, followed by dry patches as necessary til they come out clean.

As long as the rifle "comes back in", I continue shooting.

When it goes away and won't come back, its time for Hoppes/Kroil/chamber scrub.

It is not uncommon for me to shoot 500-700 rounds of 22LR in a typical range day.


After each range session, my rifles are completely disassembled and cleaned thoroughly.

The barrels are cleaned as described above. I only brush barrels that see bulk/copper washed ammo, and infrequently at that- but ALWAYS from the breech. If a 10-22 clone does not have a rear cleaning hole, I drill one or brush the bore with my Brushsnake.

My target/match barrels only ever see lubed lead ammo, and are seldom brushed.

I clean the bolt, charging assembly and inside of the receiver with the Hoppes/Kroil mix, but if they're really gunked up I start with Break Free Powder Blast.

I usually only clean the TG by blowing it out with compressed air. I will spray Break Free in them about once every 4-5 cleaning sessions (1500-2000 rounds), then blow them out thoroughly with compressed air.

I use Hornady One Shot dry lube or Liquid Wrench dry lube on my TGs on all guns.

I use TW25 gun grease or Slip2000 AR grease sparingly on the upper gliding surface of the bolts of my 10-22 clones and on the bolt glide channels of other semi auto and bolt action rifles.

I use Militec Spec (10-22s),

LPS Magnum lube (Centerfire semi auto pistols and rifles),

or MPro7 gun oil (Bolt actions) very lightly on bolts, chrging rods and other moving parts.

My lube process is simple- apply sparingly and wipe off most of the lube.

DrG

Last edited by DrGunner; 10-04-2017 at 02:49 PM.
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  #22  
Old 06-01-2013, 03:09 PM
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Wow. I would vote for that post to be its own sticky. Great information packed into an easy to digest strait forward way. You are the man. Thanks again!
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  #23  
Old 06-02-2013, 12:50 PM
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Chapter 3- The Gunner Brushsnake

Chapter 3- The Gunner Brushsnake-

The process for making these is nearly identical to the Jagsnake in Chapter 2. The brushes that I have found to work best for this tool are .22 caliber pistol brushes made by Otis, also available on Amazon for $11-12 for a package of 10:

http://www.amazon.com/Otis-Bulk-No-2...+brush+10+pack

They come in handy little plastic boxes; if you cut a keyhole slot in the end of them with a dremel, you can use the case to protect the brush while its attached to a Brushsnake or chamber handle:





In order to make the Gunner Brushsnake, you will need:
A bench vise
Otis brushes
.095" trimmer line
A drill or dremel with a Jacobs chuck
1/16", 3/32" and 7/64" drill bits
An Exacto knife
A bench sander, bench grinder, belt sander or sandpaper and time
Liquid cyanomethacrylate glue or Krazy glue liquid
A polishing wheel or polishing bit for the dremel.

I have tried this with alumunim brushes, and it can work, but the glue adheres to brass much more readily than aluminum.

EDIT: I’ve copied and pasted the following step from below:

BEFORE I MAKE BRUSHSNAKES, I will “SET” the bristles on several brushes using a take-off stock .22 barrel (I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING AN ACTIVE USE RIFLE- an old used barrel is perfect for this job). That said, if you don’t have a take off barrel handy, you can use any rifle- a bolt action with the bolt removed is easiest- and I recommend using a bore guide to protect the crown as this process involves the TABOO step of passing a cleaning rod from crown to breech. I pass the cleaning rod from crown to breech, then thread on a lightly oiled brush, and pull it through from chamber to crown, then repeat 3-4 times. Repeat with all the brushes you intend to fabricate into brushsnakes. This process serves to “set” the bristles to the forward swept angle they will take when pulled through during normal use. If you don’t do something to precondition them, there will be a LOT of resistance on the trimmer line the first few times you use them, significantly increasing the chances of pulling out the trimmer line.



Now- To actually MAKE them:

First, cut the threads off of the brush- its OK to leave one or two threads on the brush, since you will be chamfering the end of it just like the process used to make the Jagsnake in chapter 2. A good pair of wire cutters works fine here:



Then, sand or grind the end of the brass base of the brush. I use the bench sander for this step:




Now, lock the brush in a vise. Drill an axial hole at least 1/4" deep into the brass base-DON'T DRILL TOO DEEP, or you will push the brush out...
I have drilled many of them to 3/8" or more without disrupting the stamped-in fit of the brush.
Start with a 1/16" sharp drill bit. The majority of Otis brushes have plenty of room to drill before you hit the wire part of the brush. If you do hit the wire before you reach a decent depth, you may not be able to use that brush... IME, this only happens to about 1 in 15 or so brushes.
Again, it helps to leave 2 threads on the brush base for added depth/surface area for the trimmer line to adhere to:



Drill first with a 1/16" bit:



Then step up to the 3/32" bit:



Last, drill with the 7/64" bit, the hole will now fit the trimmer line:




Next, take the brush and chamfer the end with the drill hole to create a tapered end that will slip into the chamber easily without hanging up on the breech face.
I simply spin them against the bench sander at a 45 degree angle:



The next step is optional; You can polish the tapered surface that you just sanded. I use jeweler's rouge on a rag wheel for this, but a small polishing wheel on a dremel would suffice:





Next, clean off any polishing compound and dry the brush and socket thoroughly. Insert trimmer line and mark the depth with an Exacto knife:



Using the same process that was used to rough up the trimmer line to make the Jagsnake, holding the blade perpendicular to the trimmer line, drag the tip of the Exacto knife along the trimmer line so that it "chatters" along, leaving a row of score marks. Again, you are not cutting the line. Place the edge of the Exacto knife against the trimmer line, using the tip of a sharp blade. Drag the knife along the trimmer line sideways to rough it up, repeating as necessary around the circumference of the line.
THIS STEP IS CRITICAL as it causes the glue to adhere to the trimmer line.
Test fit the trimmer line into the drill hole and trim as necessary so that only smooth line is exposed. The result should look like this:



Now, apply Krazy glue liquid or thin cyanomethacrylate liquid to the trimmer line, plus a small drop in the drill hole:



Push the line QUICKLY into the drill hole to full depth. Wipe off any glue that squeezes out with a Qtip, and hold together for several seconds. The end result should look like this:




Now cut a 45 degree angle into the other end of the trimmer line.
You can now place the brush into the plastic container it came with which you previously cut a keyhole slot into. This will protect it in your range bag...






Remember, when using these, the brush will need to follow in the rifling grooves. You need to allow the trimmer line to twist as you pull these through the barrel. Most barrels have a right hand / clockwise twist from the perspective of the breech. That means that you will need to allow/help the trimmer line to twist COUNTER CLOCKWISE when pulling from the muzzle. These are extremely durable and will hold up much longer than the brush itself.
I have made them with aluminum jags with nylon brushes- it just takes longer for the glue to set.
They can also be made in any caliber, although I haven't tried a .17 yet...

SOME OF THESE BRUSHSNAKES WILL BREAK IF THE BORE IS TOO TIGHT!!!! It helps immensely to put the Brushsnake into the bore as if you plan to pull it, THEN PUSH IT THROUGH FROM BEHIND WITH A ROD FOR A FEW PASSES TO SET THE BRISTLES. MORE RECENTLY, I’ve found a better way- BEFORE I MAKE BRUSHSNAKES, I will “SET” the bristles on several brushes using a take-off stock .22 barrel (I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING AN ACTIVE USE RIFLE- an old used barrel is perfect for this job). I pass a cleaning rod from crown to breech, attach a lightly oiled brush, and pull it through from chamber to crown, then repeat 3-4 times. This process serves to “set” the bristles to the froward swept angle they will take when pulled through during normal use. If you don’t do something to precondition them, there will be a LOT of resistance on the trimmer line the first few times you use them, significantly increasing the chances of pulling out the trimmer line.

Regards,

DrGunner
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Last edited by DrGunner; 12-23-2017 at 04:53 AM.
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  #24  
Old 06-02-2013, 01:56 PM
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Next Up: Chapter 4: The Gunner Chamber Brush

I will post the last section tomorrow or Tuesday, as time permits...

Thank you all for the support and kind words-

DrG
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:37 PM
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Chapter 4- The Gunner Chamber Brush, Part 1

Chapter 4- The Gunner Chamber Brush

I make my chamber brushes with a finger loop in the center, which provides superb control and leverage for cleaning the chamber on most pistols and rifles WITHOUT having to disassemble the firearm. For some applications, these work better if you change the angle of the brush from the 90 degrees pictured above to a lower angle, say, for access to deeper chambers like centerfire bolt actions. This design is also superb for cleaning revolvers.



You simply place your ring finger or middle finger through the loop:





I make my chamber brush from aluminum or brass cleaning rods. I usually use a Hoppes 3 piece rod kit that also contains a large and small jag that can be fashioned into the Jagsnake featured in chapter 2 of this thread.
The kit is available on Amazon, for about $9:

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Rifle-C...s+cleaning+rod

In order to make these, you will need:
Alumunim or Brass rod sections
A bench vise
A power drill
1/16", 3/32", 1/8" & 9/64" drill bits
An 8-32 tap
A MAPP gas or Propane torch
A 5/8" deep well socket (a spark plug socket with hex end is ideal)
Heavy leather gloves.

First, you need to cut the "male" ends off of the threaded rod sections, and cut the "T" handle off of the top section. The "female" ends of the rod sections can simply be tapped to the larger 8-32 tap size. You must drill and tap the other end to create a doule ended tool. You could also choose to make two chamber brush handles, and leave the "T" handle on the top rod section, tap the other end to 8-32 and use it for cleaning pistols, if you so desire.

After you have cut the "male" end off of the rod stock, grind the end flat on a bench sander or bench grinder. Then, lock the section of rod in a vise, padded with cardboard or leather. You will then drill an axial hole into the end of the rod section, starting with the 1/16" bit and working your way up, in stepwise fashion to 9/64.



Here is what the rod stock looks like after the male section was lopped off and the end prepped on the bench sander. It's locked in a vise, with leather padding.



I will describe how to do this with a hand drill, even though I personally cheat and do these on my drill press
IT IS IMPERATIVE that the initial drill hole starts at the center of the rod, and stays centered, the best way to accomplish this is to work SLOWLY, with a fresh, sharp drill bit, and check your work from more than one angle as you go.
You want to drill to a depth of at least 1/2-3/4"
IF you drill off center, stop, cut the rod shorter, grind the end flat and start over.



Next, step up to the 3/32" bit, and bore to the same depth, staying centered.



Next, same thing, 1/8" bit:



Finally, the 9/64" bit:



Next, prepare to tap. Blow out all chips from the drill hole.
Spray some oil or WD 40 into the drill hole and on the tap.



You can tap by hand, but with aluminum that is properly pre drilled to 9/64", you CAN get away with tapping with the 8-32 tap chucked in a power drill:



Run the tap 1/2 way in, reverse it out. Blow chips off of the tap and out of the drill hole. Reapply oil to the tap and in the drill hole.
Rerun the tap to full depth. Make sure the part is clamped solid in the vise, and run the drill slow and steady. Too fast and you will snap the tap in half.



Back the tap out, blow the chips out of the threaded hole, and test fit a bore brush or other 8-32 cleaning accessory into the tapped hole, threading it all the way in until it seats.



If the other end of the rod section is female, but is part of the mid-sections of the rod, you simply need to drill it to 9/64" and tap the hole using the same method just described.

You SHOULD now have a straight section of rod that is drilled and tapped to 8-32 on both ends. Next step: bending the rod in order to create the center "finger loop".

The next step requires heating the rod section and bending it around a jig.
I use a 5/8" spark plug socket- it has a hex end which makes it ideal for locking it into a vise for stability, and is the right size for a finger loop for me- I have large hands. You may wish to make the loop smaller.

Here's my socket, locked in a vise it becomes my bending jig:







CONTINUED IN NEXT POST-

Last edited by DrGunner; 06-11-2013 at 08:09 PM.
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  #26  
Old 06-03-2013, 10:49 PM
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Chapter 4, Part 2

In order to bend the rod section in a complete circle, you need a propane torch or a MAPP gas torch. Either one will do, the propane just takes longer.

** SOME SECTIONS OF ROD WILL CRUMBLE ON HEATING.
This happens with about one in ten rod sections, and is likely due to impurities I the rod stock. If it happens to you, you can make a double ended straight rod from the pieces:



Or you can heat it, and bend the end around the jig with a pair of channel lock pliers, to make a mini finger loop handle which is perfect for your range bag:





I use a MAPP gas AND a propane torch together, because when I'm doing these I'm usually working in assembly line fashion, making several at a time, so I have learned to work with higher heat at a faster pace.

First, wear heavy leather gloves. I personally wear welding gloves, but for our purpose here, where you will be making two or three handles from one rod kit, leather work gloves should do fine.

To make the finger loop bend, you need to hold the rod section from both ends, and heat the middle 4 inches of rod. You basically want to keep the rod moving back and forth in the flame. Your goal is to apply enough heat to the center 1/3 of the rod, heating it evenly so that you can quickly wrap it around the bending jig.

How can you tell that its hot enough?

While you move the rod section side to side in the flame, grasp the ends and occasionally try to bend it. When it bends easily, you're ready.

This is the torch setup I use. Either of these torches would do the job alone, it just takes longer:



Remember, keep the rod moving side to side in the flame so that you evenly heat the middle 1/3- about 4 inches of the rod:



When you can easily bend the rod with two fingers and a thumb applied to the ends of the rod, its ready for the jig. Take the heated rod to the jig and quickly wrap it around the socket. Shape it until you have a center loop with the straight ends parallel to each other.



Pull it off of the jig and set it somewhere safe to cool.
Then all you need to do is install whatever cleaning tools you want.
I usually use an Otis .22 pistol brush on one end and a longer chamber mop on the other. Remember those handy cases that came with the Otis bore brushes? They are perfect for protecting the bore brush and mop on your new Gunner chamber brush.

Why use a pistol brush on a rifle?

It's the perfect length- when you bend the wire at the base of the brush to 90 degrees, the brush is just the right length for cleaning the chamber of a .22LR barrel without getting into the rifling grooves.
The end result looks like this:










THAT'S ALL (FOR NOW), FOLKS!!!



Respectfully,

DrGunner

Last edited by DrGunner; 06-04-2013 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:04 PM
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Chamber Brush Technique

Proper use of the Gunner Finger Loop Chamber brush

I probably should have taken the time to document and photograph this earlier... this thread seems to be an ever-evolving entity. So, I decided to keep updating it and adding to it as member input and new materials and techniques come to mind or are developed interacting with all of you.

So, hereís this little pearl-
Thereís a trick to using my finger loop chamber brush that involves a specific way of holding the gun being cleaned in such a way as to position your thumb to serve as a backstop to the shaft of the chamber brush which provides leverage to facilitate reversing direction. First, youíll want to place the gun on a padded workbench with the ejection port facing up, the barrel pointing to your left and the trigger guard/grip opposite you/facing away.


Next, open and lock the bolt back for semi autos. For bolt actions, itís easier and provides more room if you simply remove the bolt.

BEFORE YOU START THE CHAMBER SCRUBBING PROCESS, CLEAN THE MAJORITY OF THE SCHMUTZ OUT OF THE BARREL USING SEVERAL WET PATCHES AND THE JAGSNAKE FOLLOWED BY A SERIES OF WET/DRY CYCLES USING A LOOSE (.205Ē) AND TIGHT (.210) BUTTON PULLER.

You basically want to get the barrel as clean as you can using the softer, less abrasive components of my cleaning system before scrubbing the chamber- the same goes for brush cleaning the entire bore with my brush pullers. This system is designed to provide an atraumatic cleaning process to minimize the wear and tear on the rifling. Precleaning serves to significantly reduce the amount of carbon and silicates present before the brush is ever used, thus cutting down on the abrasive action created while cleaning your guns. IMO, This concept is a common sense adaptation that is easily universally applied to cleaning all firearms.

The first thing youíll want to do is find a comfortable grip with your LEFT hand which places the tip of your left thumb over the front portion of the ejection port. The mechanics of the technique Iím outlining here is the same for all pistols, 10-22 rifles and bolt guns.
Youíll want your chamber brush pre-bent to allow you to scrub the entire chamber including the leade, without getting too far into the rifling. Your main goal is the carbon ring that forms at the end of the cartridge casing. Bend your brush to allow insertion of enough bristles to clean the length of a casing plus about 1/4-3/8Ē. Some guns are inherently designed with a breech face and chamber opening that is recessed deeper than the front end of the ejection port. In these cases, it is often necessary to use a 45 degree angle in the bend of the brush. In guns that have a breech that is even with the chamber opening, a 90 degree bend in an Otis pistol brush provides the perfect depth to suit our purpose without getting too deep into the runout and rifling grooves.

Your grip should look like this:




Scrubbing from here is simple and easy. Apply a liberal amount of the cleaner/lubricant of your choice to the brush. I will usually start with my standard mix of 1:3 Kroil: Hoppes #9. Place your ring finger through the finger loop on the chamber handle and grip the shaft of the handle firmly. Insert the brush into the chamber opening fully and push to full depth, then using your left thumb as a backstop immediately reverse direction. Repeat as necessary, applying additional solvent frequently. Then pull one wet patch on a Jagsnake, followed by 2-3 wet patches on a loose (.205Ē) button. Follow with dry patches. Repeat chamber scrub if necessary. Finish with tight (.210) button puller. If Iím storing for any length of time, Iíll pull a wet patch with the jag puller to lay down a coat of lube and protect against rust.







Last edited by DrGunner; 02-24-2018 at 03:41 AM.
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:13 PM
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i've been doing the same for years - i also use the tips off of squeeze tubes cut to different diameters to use on my center fires also -
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schutzen-jager View Post

i've been doing the same for years - i also use the tips off of squeeze tubes cut to different diameters to use on my center fires also -
I like it!!! So- you cut the squeeze tube a bit oversize, then run a patch down on it?

DrG
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:59 PM
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i use the adjustable caps off of silicone or tub calk - i put hole in center of cone so that trimmer line will fit , then i trim larger part of cone to required bore size - i also use shorter lenghts of line for pistol use - i also have a few that i epoxied a short section of threaded cleaning rod so that i can use standard size brushes + patch loops on it -
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