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Old 06-11-2019, 08:23 AM
truckjohn

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Winchester 67 triggers?



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Can you do anything worthwhile with a model 67 trigger?

My beefs:
1. Heavy.
2. Grit/powder residue easily makes it's way into the trigger works - which results in a mushy, gritty trigger after 3 or 5 rounds. It seems like it's designed this way.... And it undoes what 22 makers the world around worked to accomplish for years - keep trash out of the trigger works....

What's the magic and why didn't Winchester ever sort this back out?
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Old 06-11-2019, 07:40 PM
ronny
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You do realize the Model 67 came into being about 85 years ago as Winchester's price-leading single-shot rifle? It was simple for a reason.

It was the first rifle I ever shot and I shot many a round over many years as a kid. I don't remember ever seeing the "trash" you reference in mine.

You're spoofin' us, right?
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Old 06-12-2019, 01:17 AM
winman1550
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Their darn near 100yrs old and cost $5.00 at the time. I'm sure your kidding.......right?
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:34 AM
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The 67 is such a nice simple little rifle. If dirt and crud gets in the action it is very easy to clean and lubricate it. Just enjoy it for what it is.
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:48 AM
truckjohn

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You can get a trigger for about everything else...

And even the Marlins and Savages tried to keep the trash out of their triggers....
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:17 PM
jerryray
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I bought a 67 for a hundred dollars at a flea market. It had a very light trigger that would fire when the safety was disengaged. I tore it down and the sear was worn, maybe filed down, and the stud that holds the spring was cracked. I replaced the parts. Very simple to repair. I like it better now, and don't find the trigger excessively heavy, but I don't think of it as a target rifle.
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:33 PM
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Yes to all the advice so far. The trigger is very uncomplicated. That's good for repairs, but there isn't a whole lot you can do to adjust it. Filing down the sear will work, but that's delicate work and I hate to mess with those old original parts.

It is super easy to clean. You probably don't need it, but you can buy a manual that walks you through the whole thing.

http://homesteadparts.com/shopcart/pid_2611.htm

Rob
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:16 AM
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The 67 trigger was actually designed in 1899 and was first used on the Winchester 1900 the next year.

The 1900/02/04/58/59/60/67/68 series was always Winchesters least expensive rimfires. That meant that they were never sophisticated rifles but most people were pleased with their performance considering their low price.

My particular 67 has a long, smooth pull that lets go at under two pounds. I have handled other 67s that had five pound triggers. I read somewhere that narrowing the sear spring will reduce the pull somewhat.

Perhaps the original poster would be better off with a Winchester 52 Sporter.
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:22 PM
n64atlas is online now
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People have forgotten how to pull a trigger. The era this rifle came from, trigger were over 3pounds and the 3 pounders were target rifles. Most averaged 5-6. You learned to squeeze the trigger! These were for hunting and plinking. For teaching youngsters to shoot. They were not bench guns by any means. One thing to remember if you do try to lighten it, it is stamped steel that is surface hardend.
Get carried away and you will end up with a soft sear which will fire at any time. Be careful what you wish for. Want a match trigger, buy a 52D or E. Then find someone that can do a Karl Kenyon trigger job.
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:50 PM
truckjohn

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Of course I would love a 52d or e....

But I don't have one. I will be happy to trade you this Winchester 67a for your 52e.

There's a 52a sporter here for sale locally - but it's going to take some work to get back into fighting shape.... And they want too much for it... And it's in a left handed stock.. And I don't see any trigger adjustment screws where they are supposed to be on an A - so I have no idea what sort of trigger is in it... And I am not really a fan of the old externally adjustable Lyman 2x scopes. It's pretty foggy and the crosshairs are canted. And it was apparently in the collection of somebody who was locally "famous" 50 years ago but is forgotten now but it's supposedly an artifact now.....
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Old 06-13-2019, 01:13 PM
wmrike is online now

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All the criticism of the 67's trigger is true, but Wproct said it right - enjoy it for what it is.
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Old 06-13-2019, 01:17 PM
n64atlas is online now
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I don't have an E. I do have a D plus an early preA and two C's
I also have a Brit proofed 677 which is a sub model of the 67. I don't
really need another 22. Just rember, anything made before 1959-60 is
going to have a 3lb or more trigger pull. That was the match rules at
that time.
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Old 06-13-2019, 01:42 PM
truckjohn

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It's not the weight that bother me as much as after 3 shots it goes mushy/gritty from fired 22 residue working into the trigger bits.

Otherwise - it seems to shoot fine.
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckjohn View Post
It's not the weight that bother me as much as after 3 shots it goes mushy/gritty from fired 22 residue working into the trigger bits.

Otherwise - it seems to shoot fine.
Your experience after shooting 3 rounds is not the same as mine or some others.

There should not be that much debris after only 3 shots. Something else may be the problem which is clogging up the trigger. You should be able to shoot hundreds, if not more, rounds through it before the crud builds up too badly and affects the trigger pull.

Are you getting powder blowback or is there still unburned powder in the cases when they are ejected? Typically most of the .22 rim fire debris goes down the barrel unless there is some blowback due to a worn or rough chamber. What ammo are you using? Some ammo is dirtier than others.

The sear/extractor should sit fairly snugly in the bottom receiver slot with little to no gap. How is your sear fit?

Regards,
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Old 06-13-2019, 04:13 PM
truckjohn

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It's not real cheap ammo - CCI SV, CMP Aquila, Aquila SV and Extra, Wolf, Eley Club.. I don't really shoot bulk pack ammo...

Yes - and literally 3 rounds from wiping it all down...

I don't notice a giant gap around the sear - I will try to check it with a feeler gage later this evening. What is the clearance supposed to be between the sear and the action?
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