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Old 05-11-2019, 11:15 AM
BobSc
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40X bottom metal



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Starting on my 40X project soon and need to start rounding up parts I need so I thought I would turn to the experienced folks here ...

I already turned down the barrel, now I need to round up some bottom metal so I can get some measurements and start the inletting on my stock. I've looked at the PTG Oberndorf metal and it would probably meet my needs, but hard to tell from the pics on Midway's site. I do like the in-the-bow release which I can possibly modify later for a repeater mag cover release, but I can't tell what level of quality this is from the pics. Has anyone here used the PTG metal? Feedback?
I've looked some of the other pieces available, including the Sunny Hill but I just can't afford at this point to spend that kind of money on bottom metal. I do know I don't want to use the cheesy Remington pot metal bottom metal so real steel it is or nothing....

Any ideas, critique, finger pointing, or good jokes welcome.....

Thanks for your rapt attention to this semi-important matter....

Bob
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Old 06-05-2019, 10:39 AM
crusem

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As a kitchen table hobbyist, I am pleased with my PTG bottom metal. I duracoated mine and it turned out nice for my hunting rifle. It would take a little work to smooth out for high gloss blueing but I wouldn't think it would take too long. I put my stock rem. metal on my 40x with an HS precision stock. I keep saying that I am going to put a block for spare ammo in the open space but I keep putting it off.
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Old 07-03-2019, 03:06 PM
BobSc
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Looked a bunch of pics of the 40X sporter repeaters in the stickys and realized that most of them used a small plate for the bottom metal cut out for the magazine and mag release button and screwed down to the wood. Seems like a crude way to do it at the factory, but the ones I've seen look pretty well done.. so that is the way I'll go for now. Got all the magazine holder modifications done except for one- which will be completed when the ejector I ordered comes in next week.

My Fiddleback maple stock is almost finished and will be getting finish on it starting next week- once I get the plate finished, fitted up, and inletted. Already inletted for some Dakota inlet sling swivel studs that just look perfect with this . Barreled action goes in for bluing some time next week also. It will drive me crazy waiting for it to come back so I can finish assembly of the rifle, but I'll just have to suffer through....

Pics in a day or two...
Bob
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Old 07-03-2019, 05:04 PM
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Waiting to see what you came up with !!!!
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Old 07-03-2019, 05:08 PM
JOKER708
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Changing single shot to repeater???? Watching ------
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:11 AM
BobSc
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Well, ran into a couple bumps in the road but nothing that can't be overcome with some choice adult words and a little more work....

Made up a plate for the bottom that mimics the ones I see on originals. Cut it out, carefully machined the opening for the magazine, drilled and countersunk the holes for the screws, and sanded/polished it all up so it would be ready for blue. Then I took it over and set it in place and realized I made it 1/2" too short and it barely covers the opening and the screw holes I carefully measured, drilled, countersunk are in the wrong place. So, now that I have that practice down it should be easy to make up a second one with the right dimensions this time....

A slightly more serious issue came up yesterday. The PTG bolt I got for this action has always been a bit snug, but felt like it was starting to wear in a bit. Well, setting up the ejector yesterday and put the bolt in with a round and everything seemed to go okay, but a bit stiff. When I tried to remove the round I lifted up on the bolt handle and it popped right off in my hand.... WTH? was the nicest thing I said as I held the piece and had to figure out how to get the bolt out. Luckily, on the 40X rimfires, the lugs are exposed so you can use a small punch to push it around to release and pull it out. At least one thing positive happened- when I extracted the bolt, the round extracted and ejected perfectly, so I think I have that part figured out....

So, now I have to figure out which way to repair the bolt handle. I've seen several repairs by gunsmiths where the handle is drilled and countersunk in three places and bolts are threaded into the bolt body. With the bolt heads flush with the bolt handle it looks pretty clean and almost factory. This would probably be my preferred method but in a couple forums I've asked advice most of the guys are advising having the bolt handle welded on. Surely a solid and permanent solution, but not sure yet if this is the route I want to take. On top of the fact I need to send the bolt off and wait for it to come back so I can complete my project.

Decisions, decisions....

Pictures soon....

Bob
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Old 07-11-2019, 11:29 AM
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This is the way I repaired several PTG handle failures. Soldering makes for a neater appearance but this I could do myself. Hard to tap since it is in the area of the cocking feature. Interested to see which way you go. Wayne
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Old 07-11-2019, 12:23 PM
BobSc
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Wayne,
What size screws did you use for the repair? 10-32 or 8-40?

Bob
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:47 PM
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The screw in the narrow part is a 4-40 flat torks head. the other one is a 6-32 socket head cap screw. I have done quite a bit of shooting and nothing broke or came loose yet. I made the fixture to keep things aligned while repairing. Removed the firing pin and seperated the two halves of the bolt first. Then clamped in my mill vise. Wayne
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