I got everything put together just fine. It looks great. Went to shoot it for the first time today, and it wouldn't feed from the magazine into the chamber. I tried Ruger 9-shot magazines as well as the 25-round mag in the photo. Bullet starts into the chamber, but it looks like it's angled a little bit too much and it won't feed. The primer back of the case as it comes out of the magazine is lower than the bullet tip - enough lower that the bullet isn't getting a straight shot into the chamber and it jams in the hole. I'm guessing that I drilled the magazine detent hole slightly off somehow. That's the hole that's supposed to be angled slightly. I followed the directions to keep the 8" bit almost touching the receiver while drilling that indention as best I could. My guess is that I didn't get exactly 3 degrees by trying to eyeball it this way.
Does anyone have any ideas on what I should do to get it to feed?
Took the rifle to the range today and shot a box or two. It is feeding like a champ now, but the dadgum extractor came out again. I couldn't even find it this time.
I ordered a new extractor spring the other day, and Phil went ahead and sent me another extractor and plunger too, so I have all the stuff to put in to replace it. I'll do that, but if this one comes out I'll try a VQ extractor next I guess. If that doesn't work, then what? What is supposed to keep the extractor from falling out, other than the spring tension on the plunger?
Other than the extractor deal, it shoots SWEET. It is really windy today in West Texas (surpise), and I wasn't trying to shoot tight groups at first. I was just trying to see if it would shoot and feed fast - first two mags went to the center bullseye and then to the top of the bar at 6 o'clock. It shot and fed great until the extractor fell out sometime in the 2nd mag. Then I had to slow down and check to make sure the hulls were clear before I could shoot another round. When I slowed down, I shot a pretty nice group - the one at 3 o'clock. Had 3 flyers out of 9, but the other 6 were all touching.
I haven't taken it apart yet to see how the buffer held up with 2" of added main spring. The extra spring sure helps the bolt close to full battery without fail.
Looks like you are down the home stretch now! Makes me want to get mine shooting.
2" added spring is where its at now, correct? Now to solve the extractor issue. My guess is that the bolt is hitting the buffer (as it should) but too hard. Maybe a spring issue or mass issue. I will try adding 2" of additional spring and also pursue the heavier replacement.
One possible cure for launching the extractor, may be an extractor plunger from a mkIII. I'm not sure that it will fit, but hope to find out soon. they are made with a notch to keep the extractor from camming all the way out. But like I said I haven't tried it out yet. the pistol uses the same extractor and I can only assume the spring and plunger are the same. It's at least looking into.
Has anyone tried this? I can't be the first person to think of this, or is everybody doing it allready and just didn't tell me?
Guitdolin,
I'm not sure if you already got a Volquartsen exact edge extractor or not. I did notice that they include an extra power extractor spring that might help to keep the extractor from flying off to never-never land.
Did you get a chance to check the buffer to see if it's still getting wacked? Too bad that 2.5" spring wouldn't go in -- maybe if it was 2.25" it might.
I was thinking a stronger extractor spring might hold it in place better. I didn't know the VQ came with such a spring. I'll be getting one then.
I haven't taken it apart to look at the buffer yet. I could get the 2.5" addition to the main spring in if I wanted to. If the buffer is chewed up with the 2" addition, then I'll put the 2.5" one in. I'll report when I inspect the buffer.
Mine kicked out the VQ spring and extractor/plunger, so I don't think the VQ is the answer, although it did function flawlessly up to the point it spit it out (ballpark of 100 rounds).
The last time I had it out I didn't have any extra top spring in it. I ordered an extra spring, and it came in last week, but I'm also waiting on a barrel to come in, so I'm not going to assemble it until the new barrel shows up (hopefully tomorrow). But I have been thinking about trying to add mass to the bolt, my brother and I have been brainstorming on ways to do it. When/If we figure that out, I'll let you know.
Back in the old days, just after Ruger discontinued their 22 magnum rifle, there was work being done here to convert 22lr 10/22 receivers to work with the 22 magnum round. I believe one fellow added weight to his bolt by using powdered tungsten, mixed in epoxy, and placed in holes bored into the bolt. Tungsten is heavier than lead but I really don't know how much the weight of the bolts were increased. Another point is the cartridges themselves are straight sided and on being fired want to adhere to the chamber wall so I would not advise leaving the chamber wet after cleaning or using any bonding slip agent in the chamber. All semi auto's chambers should be void of lube or slip agents to avoid increased bolt thrust. That little trick of adding an extra spring keeper (I don't remember what it's actually called) to the hammer spring can work wonders since the hammer also works as a delayed lock on the bolt. I would say that it's too bad there isn't a quick fix for the escaping extractors.
Speaking of roll pins, I was thinking about putting one in the little round hole on the side of the bolt that lines up with the base of the extractor. As long as it wasn't jammed up against the extractor, the extractor could still wiggle back and forth. But if something was there to prevent it from wiggling too far out and coming loose, maybe that would help???
I tried the mk III extractor plunger in a 10/22 bolt. It fits and there ain't no way the extractor is coming out on it's own. wont get to test fire it for week or two though. No pics my camera seems to have taken a vacation with out me.
this is the part: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=377591
Shoot, minimum order @shopruger is $10...don't need five of them! Going to machine my stocker like that. Looks like about 1/3 the length and 1/2 the diameter with a little chamfer on the end.
it's gonna take some playing with. In the last couple hours I trimmed the point off the top of the extractor, the one that the plunger pushes against. and have made it work almost like it was meant to be. once you get it all together you'll see a spot or two that may need adjustment with a stone.
Just inspected my buffer after 100 rounds fired with an extra 2" of main spring added. It is scarred a little, but not entirely chewed up like it was with the factory spring alone.
I took the 2" extra spring out and replaced it with a 2.5" spring added to the factory spring. We'll see how that goes next time.
I also found burrs on the bolt that I had missed before. The slot on the back of the bolt that hits the buffer had really sharp edges, especially on the ends of the slot. I filed all of that smooth and rounded over the edges a bit. Hopefully it won't chew into the buffer so bad now.
I'm waiting on the extractor plunger I ordered from Midway before I put it back together and fire it again. I'm hoping that Mark III plunger will keep the extractor from falling out.
If the 2.5" spring doesn't prevent extractor and/or buffer problems, then I'll try the heavier spring from Robert. If that's too heavy, then I'll mix a little of the heavy spring with the factory spring until I find the right amount of cushion. And, yes, mine is a .22 WMR and the factory spring isn't enough.
Note sure if this is any help at all but many years ago when some of us were in the process of converting a standard 22lr 10/22 into a 22 magnum some of us found that using two types of springs seemed to work. Of course, the only springs in the 10/22 are on the guide rod but I figured it would be a lot easier with the way the Razor magnum receiver is designed. In the conversion, the main spring was the standard spring and then a short section of heavier spring was added. With the Razor Magnum timing being done with the standard spring (the upper spring or spring in the housing) and the heavier spring added in the housing to slow the speed of the bolt near the end of it's travel. I have no idea what lengths would be used in the Razor since I'm only familiar with the 22lr 10/22 conversion to 22 magnum. This was done in conjunction with using a heavy hammer spring with a second spring shim. Since some of you guys already have a bunch of different springs I figured I'd bring up this old info. this most likely has already been done but there are too many pages of info for me to check them all.
Got a question for you guys that are trying to shoot 17HMR. I was wondering which 17 HMR ammo you guys were testing with? The reason I ask is I had a problem with Hornady 17 HMR V-max ammo. I don't know if it was just the one box I bought or what. I normally shoot CCI 17 HMR ammo -- any and all of the different CCI 17HMR types with no problems. I know that Hornady makes all the 17 HMR ammo but Hornady makes it to the specs called for by the different companies.
Shot my rifle today with an extra 2.5" of main spring and a Select Fire extractor in it. Shot 100 rounds, and the extractor never fell out. Maybe the extra 2.5" of spring is the ticket. I did, however get lots of stovepipes. I'm gonna get a VQ extractor and try that.
In my case, it was due to too heavy and too long springs. I over compensated and started with 7~8" of .047 (heavy) spring to start, and 7~8" of .040 (med) spring as further tests. The bolt was opening and closing way too fast at first. And probably not travelling far enough to clear the spent casing and cycle in the next.
And even with the super heavy initial setup, the s#!t$ of it was that the case bases were bulged no matter what combo I tried that day!
The SF black diamond extractor seems like a nice sharp part...the equal of a VQ IMHO. Did not have any FTE in mine.
Did you try a 7" (equal to stock OAL, but heavier) or even 7-1/2" length of the med spring?
I am planning on 6-1/2" to 7-1/2" of medium spring next. But these lengths are based on a 1"x .375 nose by 2" x .28 tail, lead filled follower.
Going to try and get my heavy bolt handle fabbed this week.
I need to try the heavier and shorter spring. Good point on the length of it. Maybe it was stacking up before the bolt could come back far enough. I need a high speed video camera for some serious slow-mo.
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