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"How do you bed your SuperStock 10/22"

66K views 137 replies 45 participants last post by  izhm 
#1 ·
Wow! How many times have I heard that? Many times in the forum, PMs, emails and even in person.

Once before I TRIED to keep a record of bedding it and the pictures were not usable:mad: So today I re created the taping and can show how and where the bedding was applied.

First we should check into supplies needed and some ideas. I used Miles Gilbert kit from Midway USA to do my DSP twins. I have always used Acraglas. I thought I would try this and it works very nicely. I personally recommend if you have never done this it is by far best to use a kit. If you have glass bedded 100 rifles you probably have your own ideas. That's okay because there are many ways to skin a cat! This thread is NOT the place to argue about it. This is about showing others how I do it. Is there a better way? GREAT!! Start a thread and show us how you do it.:bthumb:

I have always used the Brownells release agent since I started bedding stocks in 1978 or so. Not any more. I use KIWI Neutral Shoe polish. It worked amazingly well and smelled good. I have heard of many release agents and will only badmouth one of them. Don't use PAM, the cooking spray. There have been around 4 or 5 RFCers that have glued their rifles into the stock. Others have not had an issue with it. My advice is that I don't even use that nasty stuff for cooking! Why would I spray it on my rifle. Rant over.

The kit comes with some modeling clay. Or get you own at any craft store. Or steal it from your kid. You only need like 1 cubic inch. The kid will never miss it and it is reusable.

You will need a piece of soda straw. I goes into the take down screw hole.

You will need tape and a little acetone does not hurt with some Q-tips to do detail clean up. The tape I use is the blue masking tape that is used in house painting. Does not stick too much. That is a good thing.

I'm going to do this in several posts because I intend to get pretty detailed and explain the theory of what I'm doing as well as what I'm doing.

That okay with you folks? May take all night or I may finish tomorrow but it is easier in bites anyway. So, I really hope that you enjoy this and if you learn something that is great.:bthumb:
 
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#96 ·
god bless his soul, sadly i never got the chance to chat with him. but ive read some of his posts, and found them to be entertaining and informative as well. thanks vincent for the info anyways.. i appreciate cheap upgrades considering where i live(philippines) where parts are hard to come by and ridiculously priced(more than 200%) =)
 
#101 ·
Mold releasing, polyester resin, and thickening agents etc.

Micro Ballons/Glass balls are used as a lightweight filler/thickener where strength is not needed. For bedding a rifle use aluminum/steel/carbon fiber dust. Or chopped fiber glass.
West Marine (stores and online) is a good source for epoxy related products.

The Polysester Resin available now is much wearker then what was avaiable 30 years ago due to EPA regulations. Save it for surfboards and use epoxy on your stock.

Before laying up a boat in a mold: We polish the mold with pure Canauruba Wax (I can't spell) The Clear Shoe Polish used in the initial thread is most likely Canauruba Wax. The danger here is another brand may not be. You can also buy pure Canauruba Wax Car Polish. Then we use a release agent over it.

Release agent: I cringe when I read about some of the stuff being used....like cooking oil! What I'm most familiar with comes from Plastic Supply Houses that sell fiberglass. It's a blue liquid thats painted on, or dipped into. When dry it will peel off and is water soluable. It's packaged simply as Release Agent is cheap.

Saran Wrap VS other brands of plastic food wrap for warping barrels and stocks. DO NOT USE SARAN WRAP! It's chemicaly different from other brands and epoxy will stick to it. When using plastic food warp as a masking agent do a test on it first.

Instant Ding Repair kits from surfshops. (Not for bedding but good to know.) Two brands are Quick Fix and Solar Res. Chopped fiber glass in a resin that cures almost instantly in bright sun light (and not at all in a dark room). Ultra Violet light is the caralast. In the shade smear it in the hole then cover it with a plastic sandwich baggie. Work it into shape with your fingers. The bag protects your fingers and allows the stuff to be spread thin and smooth.

Now step out of the house/tree/etc and into bright sunlight. In two minutes its cured.

Epoxy and Bolts: Another good to know, it's easier then drilling and tapping. Coat bolt threads with Canurubura Wax, dip in release agent, now let your epoxy or even JB Weld harden around it. It will screw right out.

The above knowledge comes from boat building. So I'll add this product to the list. Git Rot - I have never tried it. It claims to soak into wood by way of capilary action and harden. I beleive the wood has to be wet. It may be the easiest way to pillar, bed an action - or it may ruin your stock. I have yet to play with it.
 
#102 ·
Interesting thoughts that I mostly agree with. The micro balloons work fine for a 22. They are part of the Miles Gilbert Bedding kit and they have worked very well for me. I doubt the will be in the kit if they did not work. We are not building boats. When building hard kickers I like chopped glass for the filler.

The "release agent" you speak of is the same stuff packaged in Brownells Acraglass and Acragel kits. Good stuff as long as you do not let it age.

Pam and the rest of that crazy stuff scares me. Several people have locked actions into stocks using crap like that. STAY AWAY FROM THAT KIND OF STUFF!!

I do not use plastic wrap of any kind in my bedding.

I'm not sure how the instant repair kits apply here but thanks for the info.
 
#104 ·
Caution: just because one thickness of tape works best it does not mean the same thickness of velcro will do the same thing as they are a good bit different in hardness. Both may work.

This is why I use something hard if I'm going to later glass in the same thickness. Ammo box card board or business cards are quite hard when compressed.

Many people in SuperStock do not use the solid forward spot like I do and use tire tube rubber instead. Works very well.

There was a tuner around called a "Bughole Tuner" where you could vary the pressure on the barrel with an allan wrench. These came and went pretty quickly.

As I said, there are more than one ways to skin a cat:D:bthumb: I use these methods because they work exceptionally well for me. Both of these rifle average around .75 MOA @ 100 yards. I am always open to other ideas though because I have seen other methods work very well too.

Have fun bedding your rifle and feel free to ask any questions you want to.:):t
 
#107 ·
It is exactly where it is in the pictures. There is no way I will move it in those two rifles. I did remove the bedding from under the VEE block and that was for practical reasons but it may have slightly improved accuracy as well.

I am currently........slowly due to injury and other things....building a new SuperStocker that I hope will be at least a little special. The front barrel bedding will not be in that position...at least at first.

With the new rifle I want to play with rubber barrel support and maybe some other stuff. I will see how that works and if it does not meet my standards I know exactly where to bed a barrel support made of epoxy/glass.:D:bthumb:
 
#110 · (Edited)
Thanks for the kind words. Both are shooting at least as well as they were. Both average about .7XX @ 100 yards on the days I choose to shoot them. Obviously ANY 22 is not going to average that kind of accuracy on a nasty windy day so why bother trying? Neither rifle seems to have a marked advantage over the other. As soon as I start thinking one is better than the other I get data that blows that thought away. I would call them as equal as you can build two different rifles.

Both rifles still impress people on a regular basis. A few months ago a club member could not believe that I was shooting under 1 MOA with a 22. He competes in "Service Rifle" and black powder so he knows how to shoot. I had him sit at my bench with my ammo and gave him a couple pointer and the first and only group he shot was right on the 3/4" average of the rifles:D The was done with a RFC member shooting at the next bench:bthumb: The guy was pretty impressed.

Now I'm working on a third rifle called Ricochet's Tribute. The barrel on it was the last barrel our friend Ricochet ever bought as near as I can tell. You can read about it here:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=348234

Take care.
 
#115 ·
i have plenty of electrical tape, im an electrician:D great explanation vincent, i have an acra-glass kit here at the shop, i used it to repair a cracked browning A5 stock, and i bedded 2 rifle actions with it, both rifles are ruger m77 variety, i suppose this ought to be easy enough :bthumb::bthumb:
 
#120 · (Edited by Moderator)
Just a quick tip:

I was a little worried at first about the bedding material getting into the trigger group pin holes when I was bedding my Tacticool stock and found that the a 3" golf tee i had laying on the bench were a perfect fit!!! Cut off both ends to length, slide them in and no more worries of the material getting there and setting up!!!!! You can even mold the clay around them to hold them better.
 
#125 ·
is it better to install the pillar or bed first?

So I have my stock inletted completly, and my pillar bedding set up and ready to be epoxied in. I am also, where the barrel band would have been, planing on installing a screw and grooved nylon bolt set up as an adjustable pressure point (like a pressure pad). right now when i place the barreled action in the stock the reciever rests on it's inletted area, the v-block would be sitting on the bedding pillar if i had it installed, and i have 3 inches of barrel channel at the muzzle end that i did not cut away when floating the barrel that the standard barrel rests on currently.

My question is in what order do I install these three things. I know the nylon bolt barrel pressure tuner should be last, so... should I put the pillar in first and the glass bed the action? thats what i was thinking. i'm coming here for advice. Thanks people. i appreciate it alot!

Daniel
 
#126 · (Edited)
Put the pillar in level with the wood first. After it sets up remove the wood around the pillar. Then in the action area remove a small amount of wood all the way around the "shelf" the action sits on EXCEPT one spot on each side and one spot in the back. This controls how deep the action can go into the stock.

Don't forget to wrap the barrel in one place with electricians tape to center the barrel in the channel.
 
#128 · (Edited)
Depends on what you mean by synthetic. I have a Brown Precision fiber glass stock that was easier than wood. If you are talking about the factory Tupperware stocks that is another story.

If you want to discuss that would you please start a new thread on that subject in the SuperStock forum because it is beyond the scope on this thread and I would prefer to keep that as a separate subject. It is worth talking about just not in this thread. Thanks:bthumb:
 
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