FTF / FTE Help

[kriendj]

Well I brought my 10/22 to the lease to see if all my parts helped or hurt. The verdict? I shot one magazine and everyone of them was FTE. Then I shot another 5 and it was a mix of FTE and stove pipes. So it got worse lol. I did look at the rim and the firing pin looks to be making consistent dents.

So where to go from here? I’ll try another magazine for sure but my fixes there have the mag staying tight in the stock.

I’ll try one thing at a time now. Lol. I’ve learned my lesson from those that are more experienced than me.


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[kriendj]

Maybe try a new mag and also go back to stock extractor spring versus the VQ one. Any other ideas? And which to try first?


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[Hawkeye57]

I don't think it's been ask, does the mag drop free when released ? When the mag is inserted is there clearance between the sides of the mag and the stock ? If the stock is touching the side of the mag it can cause some of the problems your having. It's an easy fix using a piece of sand paper on the inside of the stock, if that's the case.
It's worth a look.

[gcrank1]

So you got FTE and Stovepipes this time, dont mention FTF so checking the f-pin indent tells nothing regarding the FTE/SPs.
Is that FTE Failure to Extract or Failure to Eject? We recently had a good thread on inspecting the extractor hook and modding same to actually get a grip under the rim. My guess your problem is there.
Is the SP'ing at the loading a cartridge or during ejection? Ejection can be a problem with slow slide speed.
Have you tried CCI MiniMags? Ime any semi auto that gives problems usually responds to a good cleaning (I know, yours is clean), a good slick lubing and CCI-MMs. It it dont run then its mechanical.

[DRob]

gcrank1, you beat me to the question about what is "FTE". Extraction and ejection are two very different things accomplished by different parts. I'm going way back in time here, to point out that the function of the extractor is to pull UNFIRED rounds from the chamber. It's a blow-back action. The same pressure which expels the bullet from the barrel blows the empty case out of the chamber forcing the bolt backward. The case then hits the ejector which kicks the spent case out of the ejection port. The opinion was expressed here many years ago that a 10/22 will run just fine without an extractor. I tried it and it worked.........when I fired the gun.

Could the issue be bolt travel? If something is retarding it so it's not moving far enough or fast enough, it could cause stovepipes or what appears to be complete failures to extract. Or maybe I'm just blowing smoke. See below.

I have a 10/22M which experienced 50%+ failures to eject with a well-known brand after market barrel. It was suggested that I try a Clark Custom barrel and, with no other changes, the gun functioned perfectly. To me, that points to the chamber.

The 10/22 can be a quirky gun and simple things can cause issues. Like the retaining clip on the hammer spring being installed upside down. Myth or not?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7z_kZKO6Xs

Hope you get it figured out.

[kriendj]

The mag drops out with the mag release without issue.

When i said FTE I meant extract. The first mag every shot didn’t extract at all. The next mag I got stove pipes. Does a new VQ guide rod and spring have to “break in”?

Since the extractor is for unfired cases, and given that mine won’t extract fired cases does that point to difficulty in the bolt moving? Guide rod, burrs on bolt or receiver, too light of a load?

Later today I’ll try a heavier load. Yesterday i used a Cci load that listed 1050fps. Not sure if that’s light or heavy.


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[gcrank1]

If fired cases are not kicking out; ie, the meaning of 'blowback' it points to a tight 'match' chamber that may be a bit rough. It may respond to a judicious polishing. My Shaw barrel is more touchy than the oem but shoots a tad better with the same ammo.
How does it extract unfired cartridges manually (that is a check for the extractor hook functioning). Of course, that doesn't come into play until the bolt is moving back when firing.
I bet if you put the oem barrel back on the action function will be fine; maybe do that for a bit to break-in the new action parts. Meanwhile, contact Shaw to find out what they recommend or go ahead and polish the chamber per the info on this forum.

[kriendj]

Grcrank1, it extracts unfired cases fine. I’ll look up the chamber polishing but here’s and update. I bought some fiochi “high velocity” ammo and it went through a clip just fine. So maybe all the parts are good and I just need to shoot some high velocity stuff to break it all in? Kinda like putting the old barrel on but now that I know the parts seem to work maybe I can just do the same with the Shaw barrel? Seem like a decent plan?


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[gcrank1]

I agree, feed it something it works with, shoot it a bunch, then periodically try something else to see if it balks.
Use what works and have some fun

[Hawkeye57]

Maybe I missed it, but what spring do you have in your Kidd guide rod ? The medium works best for most.

[kriendj]

Yup, medium spring. The white one. I guess 1000 FPS ammo is too weak until it breaks in some more. Dunno. I’ll shoot more high velocity stuff at the range when I can. Then clean it again and try some other stuff after that. But now I can hopefully confirm reliability and work on figuring out how well it shoots!!


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[gcrank1]

Put in the soft one? The proof is in the function vs what 'usually is the one to use'.

[kriendj]

Originally Posted by gcrank1

Put in the soft one? The proof is in the function vs what 'usually is the one to use'.

Gotcha. That makes sense. Sometimes you just need someone else to suggest the obvious. Lol. Thank you


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